Drivers door lock switch won't lock?

[bobflood]

When i cut open that pink wire, It was corroded and some of the coppers were a dark brown like it had overheated somewhere. Im assuming worst case and that the whole wire may be bad in multiple spots. If I can find where it ends on the other side I may just run a whole new wire.

Questions:

do you happen to have a diagram for it? Drivers rear access panel is where the jack is right? and the numbers for the outer lock keypad? and the splice near the seat, where do i access it from? just the back seat? or do i need to get under the rear seat.

Also! =] where is the ultimate end of this wire in case i need to just run a new one. Is it in the rear access panel? I know there is a computer box or something back there.

Thanks for the Info!

ET: I would first try and just replaced the damaged part you found and see if that fixes the problem. Why go looking for work??

The RAP Module is the "computer box" the number is on in the driver's side rear of the cargo compartment. The splice should be forwrd of that under the floor trim at the outer edge of the carpet under the back door; you should not have to take out the rear seat. I have no physical wire routing diagram, but I have provided access to a site with lots of information below. According to the schematic, the pk/lt grn wire goes from the door switches to the "door unlock relay" in Aux Relay Box #4; that relay box is located somewhere right around that RAP module. Hope this helps. Please let us know how you do.

Auto - Online Repair Info
http://search.ebscohost.com/
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Work you way down to the schematics.

 

[etdavenport]

ET: I would first try and just replaced the damaged part you found and see if that fixes the problem. Why go looking for work??

The wire is the bad part. switches all work, everything works but the wire coming from the unlock had no current. So its either bad between the switch and this module you speak of, or somewhere between that module and wherever it goes. Either way I am probably going to have to re run a wire unless I find an obvious break.


Thanks for the info! here goes nothing....lol

 

[bobflood]

The wire is the bad part. switches all work, everything works but the wire coming from the unlock had no current. So its either bad between the switch and this module you speak of, or somewhere between that module and wherever it goes. Either way I am probably going to have to re run a wire unless I find an obvious break.


Thanks for the info! here goes nothing....lol

Most likely place for the wire break is in the door bundle. Next most likely is at the splice near the rear seat. Since the locks work properly from the keypad, remote and pass side switch (right?), everything downstream from the RAP and relays is good - it is only the wire from the driver's side that is bad.

 

[marcelo]

My driver lock switch doesn't work at all, I took it apart, it looks new, clean the connections, still doesn't work. I'll check the wires tomorrow.

 

[dcdyd]

I solve the issue of not being able to lock the driver door. Detail is here.

 

[mickeyg]

Door locks

Has anyone given any thought to the GEM.It controls alkmost everything including windows and transmisson.Not an easy problem to fix

 

[marcelo]

Got it !!! 2 broken wires inside black rubber hose (close to door hinges), that goes inside by emergency brake, then under carpet to the left of driver seat. I'l post pictures later.

 

[lots-of-fords]

I am also having door lock issues,
Key fob does not lock the doors, but if I press the key fob lock button twice it beeps the horn and sets the alarm, but the doors are not locked.
97 ex v8 awd

 

[bobflood]

I am also having door lock issues,
Key fob does not lock the doors, but if I press the key fob lock button twice it beeps the horn and sets the alarm, but the doors are not locked.
97 ex v8 awd

Does the key fob unlock the doors, or does it not work in either direction? Do the doors lock off any of the switches (driver, pass, rear hatch)?

 

[lots-of-fords]

The key fob will unlock the doors and will set the alarm, but will not lock the doors. The rest of the door locks lock and unlock the doors, but if I lock the doors and then close the drivers door, the drivers door will not unlock with the key fob.

 

[bobflood]

The key fob will unlock the doors and will set the alarm, but will not lock the doors. The rest of the door locks lock and unlock the doors, but if I lock the doors and then close the drivers door, the drivers door will not unlock with the key fob.

Since everything works from the regular switches, one or more of the three wires that connect the RAP module to the door lock relays are probably broken. Breaks are most likely in the drivers door bundle or the splice in the driver-side rear door channel in the floor. Just so you know, pushing the key fob unlock once should just unlock the drivers door; a second quick press should unlock all of the doors.

Well, don't see any way to attach a file here or to a PM. If you send an email to me at bob.flood@att.com, I will email you the schematic.

 

[lots-of-fords]

Still trying to find a broken wire with no luck, Is it possible that the RAP module has failed, and if so can my key fob be reprogrammed to work with one out of the junk yard?

 

[bobflood]

Still trying to find a broken wire with no luck, Is it possible that the RAP module has failed, and if so can my key fob be reprogrammed to work with one out of the junk yard?

Before you replace the RAP module, you need to test it. You should hook up a test light/meter to the wires out of the module to the relays and see if you get a voltage on the appropriate wire when you lock or unlock with the remote.

Also, here is a place to go to download wiring diagrams:
Auto - Online Repair Info
http://search.ebscohost.com/
ID: rrcc
PW: rebsco

Follow prompts down to Wiring Diagrams

 

[budwich]

I don't think that the rap module is sending voltage... it is more likely a ground. Either way, check with a meter as suggested. Further, since your "thing" works for one function and not the other... it is unlikely that the rap is the problem. You got the standard "rotted splice"... lots of posts and pictures.... but again check with a meter, simple check.

 

[bobflood]

I don't think that the rap module is sending voltage... it is more likely a ground. Either way, check with a meter as suggested. Further, since your "thing" works for one function and not the other... it is unlikely that the rap is the problem. You got the standard "rotted splice"... lots of posts and pictures.... but again check with a meter, simple check.

budwich: You are correct - the RAP module does ground the door lock relays, just like the switches do.

I agree with budwich - RAP is much less likely than one of the wires. According to the schematic, pk/yel wire does the locking and pk/lt grn wire does the unlocking. There is also a lt grn wire from the RAP that unlocks the drivers door only with the first push of the key fob unlock button. A second push within a a couple of seconds unlocks all of the doors. The three relays (drivers unlock, all lock, all unlock) are all close to the RAP there in the back.

 

[scubadogg86]

i just fixed it in my truck.... my truck would not lock at all'

under the rear seat behind the driver, there are a bundle of wires

pink and green unlock

pink and yellow lock


find those wires


my problem was where they were tied into eachother

i found out the pink and yellow go from 3 to 1 in a rubber boot

start snipping youll and reapair

to test the wires to see what is live with a multimeter the pink and yellow are positive, any good ground will do

 

[marcelo]

Problem Fixed, I soldered the wires, and everything works now. Problem was close to the door hinges, insise rubber hose that protect wires.

 

[gein69]

Thanks DCDYD

This forum is the best. Again I ran into trouble with my Mountaineer and you guys helped me again. DCDYD, you nailed my problem right on the head. Looked at my door based on your pictures and saw the same problem. A 1/2 an hour later problem solved and tools put away, best part no money spent for the repair.

Thanks,

Ron

 

[Bryanbrock]

Hey guys,
I’ve got the same issue on a1998 xlt.
The drivers side door lock switch will unlock but not lock, I’ve tried many switches many relays( in back compartment where jack is) I put a meter on the black wires and the green/pink I have 11.8volts I assume that voltage coming in but as I press lock side of switch nothing happens
Just look any ideas before I trace wire(pink/green) through door jam
Passenger side switch is ok locks and unlocks
Door keypad and fob are working too