Driveshaft and t-case questions

[Happy Jack]

I started out with a 2wd 88 BII. Put the Dana 35 Explorer front TTB under it with 44 outers. Took out the A4LD and put in a C-5 built to C-4 V-8 specs. Put a Tom Campbell doubler and 1354 t-case from a 94 B-3000. Put a rear 9" from an 85 F-150. I took the flange off the back of the back of the 1354 t-case and installed a yoke (1210 u-joints) from an 84 BII 1350 case. Skyjacker 6" lift with new 6" springs and long radius arms. Installed a 1" body lift.

Now I want to use this to drive to Colorado and Utah and wheel and drive it back. It has AC and cruise. It has to be dependable.

The rear drive shaft binds at full drop. The rear t-case yoke is over 3" farther back that it was with the A4LD. The 9" pinion yoke is lower than the 7.5 was. That with the 6" suspension lift is causing trouble.

Two local driveshaft shops say do not grind on the double cardan to permit more flex. They say more flex will put stress on the center pin. I have talked to other out of state driveshaft company's that do grind for more flex.

Ok, now for the question. Will the front out put yoke of the 1354 T-case work on the back? The 84 1210 yoke and double cardan unit are small and use tiny bolts to hold it on. The front out put has a 1310 double cardan. The guy I talked to at the out of state driveshaft place said that the 1310 will flex more than a 1330. Just hope that maybe the 1310 in the front may flex more than the 1210 I have in the back now.

If the front output yoke on the 1354 will fit the rear, where can I get one? Or is there some place that makes 1310 yoke for the rear output of the BW1354 t-case?

Is anyone running a driveshaft that has been ground for more flex on a DD and highway driver truck?

Guess my other option would be to start going backwards. Remove the 6" springs and replace with 4". If I did that I'd bump the body lift another 1" to 2". Replace the Tom Campbell Doubler with a stubler or D&D unit. And replace the 9" with a full width 8.8. Man all that work and money just makes me sick to think about.

Let me know what you think.

 

[Gremlinstien]

I think you should replace the T&M with a stubler,,,,,but I am just a little bit biased on that one!

I'm not sure if the front output yolk from a 1354 will work on the rear, never tried that one. But, I do have the parts here to find out. I'll check on that for ya in the morn.

 

[Happy Jack]

Grem have you or others done extended highway driving testing of your stubler? Your stubbler or the kit D&D sells would put me within an inch of stock A4LD location. Just have to do some patching and more cutting for my t-case shifter (move the hole forward aprox. 3").

The reason I ask is I leave home about 6:00 AM central time and head up I-35 to I-70 and head west to Utah through Colorado. About 9:00 PM mountian time I'm out side Green River or Moab. That's about 900 miles in 16 hours.

Tom Woods site says the 1310 double cardan will flex to about 30 degrees before a bind occurs and they can make it go past 35 degrees with machine work on the internals (grinding). Says the 1350 will bind at about 20 degrees of flex but it can be made to go past 35 also.

The flange I removed from the back of the BW1354 will take a 1310 double cardan. But in the thread "flange vs. yoke" it looks like the yoke is more reliable.

So if the 1310 will work with out reliability problems and not bind that is the way I will go.

Thanks for the help.

Is Grif up in your neck of the woods? If he is and you see him ask him if he's ready to go feed the bear again.

 

[Gremlinstien]

Well, I just checked it for sure. The 1354 front yolk WILL fit on the rear if you remove the dust/dirt shield. Shaft size and splines are the same and so is the seal surface. You should be good to go on that one.

I am not sure how many road miles Tony has put on his stubler yet, but I know he has put "some" on it at highway speeds with no problems. So far, he is the only one to have it installed.

I don't forsee there being any problems with the stublers since the shaft is supported like it is in stock form. It should run and last just like any other "stock" 1350/4 would. As I think you know, I have spent over a year studying this thing in order to make it as good as possible. I would not be afraid of a 16 hr trip with a stubler in my truck.

Not to bash the D&D kit, but that unsupported shaft could be an issue for a daily/highway driver IMHO. As Duffy claims, the more load you put to the shaft, the more it wants to "self center" itself in the splines. I agree with that to a point, but I see a problem there. How often, on the highway, do you have a "no load" condition? Or a "load, no load, back load, no load, load" situation? On and off the throttle a bit to hold speed when going up and down hills? The way I see it, the "no load" moments will allow the "floating shaft" to do just that, float. Sort of along the lines of having a rear driveshaft carrier bearing go bad. It doesn't bother you when there is a load on it, but when you "coast" you get an evil vibration. His kits could be just fine in a trail rig, I just don't think it would be a good choice for a highway machine. But again, I am a bit biased on this subject.

And ya, Grif is in the area now, I'll be sure to ask him next time I see him.

 

[Happy Jack]

Thanks Grim! I'll check the local tranny shops and see if I can get another front yoke.

 

[wanderer351]

I dont usually drive the sploder...but after 150 miles..100 at freeway speeds...I wouldnt hesitate to put the stubler in and forget its there till you need it..no noise..no vibration...flawless..