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Driveshaft Length

Flip4ford

Well-Known Member
Joined
August 24, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Newton, KS
Year, Model & Trim Level
94' Sport
Howdy to one and all,
I am planning on doing a SOA mod within the next month. I have a 4" lift (shackles and overload spring) I currently have a stock driveshaft. I will either remove the overload spring or the shackles depending on ride heighth. I know if the drive shaft is too short it will come apart, and if it is too long it will bottom out...
If I do the mod will I need a longer driveshaft?
Is there a formula for "it is so many inches from yoke to yoke so my axle tube needs to overlap this much"? I know rotating the rear axle a little will change the length too. I have a guy who works in a tranny/driveline shop who can make me one, but he needs to know the length I want for the new tube (if needed)
Has anyone else that has done the SOA mod have to change their driveshaft?

And before someone asks - I did a search but haven't found a whole lot of information on the driveshaft, allot on the SOA, just not driveshaft length. I may have missed it in the pretty good write ups on SOA, but I think I scoured the sight pretty good.:)

Thanks!
 



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If you have a 4in rear lift already and do a SOA then you will have a good 9" of lift in the rear and yes you will need a new driveshaft. I dont know the length you will need but hopefully someone else will be able to answer that question.
 






You sure you don't mean sas?
 






I'm pretty sure he knows what he is talking about...

SAS = Solid Axle Swap = Front Axle
SOA = Spring Over Axle = Rear Axle

Ryan
 






I'm pretty sure he knows what he is talking about...

SAS = Solid Axle Swap = Front Axle
SOA = Spring Over Axle = Rear Axle

Ryan
Funny I think I do too...

I know I'll get 5.5" from a SOA, and I'll probably remove the shakles giving me about 6.5 -7" of rear lift. I have saggy rear springs....

Anyone have drive shaft info? Anyone who did a SOA have driveshaft issues...
 






When I did my SOA (no extra height from shackles or leaves) I used my stock driveshaft without modification. It is about 1/2" too short though. Basically I left it at the static position and bolted the rear on, then had the stretch it 1/2" more to get the front bolted up. It does not fall out under full droop though.

IMO you should get a double cardan from the start though.
 






Hey thanks for the info I Da Marble!!
I have a double cardian stock shaft (not installed, yet). Thanks for the tip though.

Another quick question - Did you turn your Axle yoke upward a couple degrees to point directly at the tcase or did you leave it level?
 






I left it level at first but I had bad vibrations above 70. Then I put in a 3* shim and dropped the t-case 1". No vibes until after 85. BUT, the t-case drop was too much and caused issues with the front driveshaft and tranny shifter. So I reduced the drop to 1/2" and everything looks perfect but I have not taken it on the freeway since to test for vibes. If you get an angle finder you'll save some headaches and get it right the first time. I didn't have one and guestimated.
 






I read on here that it should be 1drg above a straight line to the transfer case. that way when it is under load it is all in line. Thanks again for your input, it is helpful.
 






Almost. If using a double cardan, it should be pointed 1-2* below a straight line. Under load the pinion moves upward so you want it to be straight under load.

If you keep your stock driveshaft, the t-case and pinion angles should be identical under load, but also can't be more than a specified amount or you will get vibes and premature u-joint failure. I think it's something like 11* but don't quote me. So best scenario is typically to try to point the pinion upwards a few degrees more and point the t-case downward the same amount.
 






OOOPS! Thanks I better got re-read that article again :)
 






I just did the SOA and i def need a new drive shaft. Maybe mines just a bit shorter than your guys or everyone has more balls and runs with less contact with the splines. :confused:
 






Is you axle still centered or was it moved back a little? Stock springs? All I know is I have enough engaged that it doesn't fall out during full flex so I call it good. Eventually I will move the axle back 1" more and then get a drive shaft 1.5" longer than I have now for good measure. Us 2dr guys can have a 4dr shaft cut down cheap/easy.
 






Stock springs and the axle is sitting directly below where stock was. It went from about 4in of splin contact stock to 1.5 and for off roading I want more than that. Has enyone ever had to get a front one made when doing the 5.5 superlift?
 






I haven't had a front made but a day prowling the junkyard may get you a cheap alternative. Jeep XJ/ZJ driveshafts are interchangeable with Explorer shafts but come in many lengths, Jeep didn't standardize like Ford did with the different tranny/t-case combos.
 






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