Driving with a coolant leak from the timing cover

[98FordLove]

Oops my bad, sorry I just did a VIN check and I have a 96 not a 98.

Im guessing the gaskets are the same and does the 96 still have the thermo housing?

 

[CDW6212R]

The OHV 4.0's are well worked out and reliable, likely Ford's best V6. Those you don't ever have to worry about the T'stat housing, it's solid steel and if it doesn't rust away, it lasts forever.

The valve covers usually leak due to the poor gasket material. The same kind is fine for replacing them with, and for long term keepers(10+ years), hunt a better material. Cork is the worst, thick steel with rubber coating is the best, and the rest is in between in leak resistance. Not many engines have the thick steel/rubber option, I don't think the OHV 4.0 does.

 

[98FordLove]

The OHV 4.0's are well worked out and reliable, likely Ford's best V6. Those you don't ever have to worry about the T'stat housing, it's solid steel and if it doesn't rust away, it lasts forever.

The valve covers usually leak due to the poor gasket material. The same kind is fine for replacing them with, and for long term keepers(10+ years), hunt a better material. Cork is the worst, thick steel with rubber coating is the best, and the rest is in between in leak resistance. Not many engines have the thick steel/rubber option, I don't think the OHV 4.0 does.

I love the 4.0L OHV v6, very reliable engine and aside from these leaks (which is expected with age), I've had no issues. The t-stat housing on mine is solid steel? Well then even better, so it looks like no cheap plastic one that is found on the 4.0 SOHC. I will be putting a much better quality gaskets on the timing cover and valve gaskets today. The worse is paying to get gaskets done, only to have them leak again shortly after and then have to re-do it again. I've been there before and that's why I will pay more for someone who will do the job right the first time.

 

[98FordLove]

I ended up getting a lot more done than I originally planned but if I have the motor open, I may as well replace the other little things that need to be done because I won't be paying for this kind of labour again for the remaining time I have this truck.

Got done:
Oil all cleaned up
Cylinder heads checked for warpage and cracks - passed the test.
New timing cover gasket
New valve cover gaskets for both
New thermo housing gasket
New oil cap since old one was busted
New spark plugs since old ones were completely fried and had oil all over them. Should have been done 60k km ago. Would explain the crappy gas mileage I've been getting over the past 2 years.
New coolant sensor (temp gauge wasn't reading properly even after a new thermostat)
New thermostat (figured since the housing was open, may as well replace this $10 part again)
New belt tensioner/pulley since its still stock and has been squeaking for the past year. Old belt is still good but if I am putting the belt back on, may as well just replace it.
Since it came with the intake manifold kit, new intake manifold gaskets.
Cooling system bleed out of air
New oil change since coolant gets into the oil

Though was tempted, didn't touch the timing chains because it's too big of a job to do and it would exceed the value of the truck. This repair is already getting up there in cost and want to keep it down.

Get the truck tonight. If I can get another 3 more years out of it, worth it. 5 years? Even better. Obviously now that I spent a good chunk of change on these repairs, I will keep it until it dies and hopefully at least 3 more years!

But no more having to constantly check oil and coolant every few days. I won't keep coolant in the back anymore but I will still keep a quart of oil in the back in case I burn oil or have a rear main oil leak but seeing how I just fixed two bad leaks from 3 sources, I would say the problems will be gone.

 

[kenkeyessr]

Hi all,

Joined this forum because it's specific to my Ford, so I would like to hear from other Ford owners. 98 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0L.

I just discovered that I've been driving all along with a coolant leak coming from the timing cover for 2 years now. It seems minor for now as it seemed to have gone about 8 months before it lost 4L of coolant in the radiator. I just refilled the rad and put in 6L of coolant in including top ups. I've had this truck for 2 years now and it runs perfectly fine otherwise. It does have a minor oil leak coming from the valve cover gasket too but I've left this since it was very minor. It has 195k km on the truck and new tires are due within the next 3-4 months.

The question I have is, both short and long term, what would be the problems that could result if i continued to drive the truck with a coolant leak from the timing cover? I'm not talking for years and years but say 1 year? I have a car as well as this Ford truck, so it won't be seeing all the miles but would still be driven daily with maybe some long distance trips in the summer. I am reading about on here that it's the t-housing that is leaking and that often leaks on these 4.0L Ford Explorers? I'm guessing the t-housing is the timing cover?

If I check my coolant say once a week and make it a habit of keeping the coolant topped up and burp out any air pockets from the cooling system whenever I feel a drop in the cabin heat. Do you think this would be okay and buy me time? Can anything super bad result from this (like cause other problems)?

TIA.

 

[EB4X]

Your / our 4.0 ohv engines will last till 400,000 and beyond as long as not overheated bad...besides many examples online, and my Ranger with 257,000 when sold (running like a top) Here's one for sale with about 337,000 miles on it -- inquired to seller --had zero internal engine work needed / done and he stated it runs very good : 1996 Ford Explorer for Sale in Los Angeles, CA - OfferUp
Disregard the "8 cylinder" on ad... that was an error on his part.

 

[98FordLove]

Your / our 4.0 ohv engines will last till 400,000 and beyond as long as not overheated bad...besides many examples online, and my Ranger with 257,000 when sold (running like a top) Here's one for sale with about 337,000 miles on it -- inquired to seller --had zero internal engine work needed / done and he stated it runs very good : 1996 Ford Explorer for Sale in Los Angeles, CA - OfferUp
Disregard the "8 cylinder" on add... that was an error on his part.

400,000 miles I can see that. That's pretty rare for no leaks on that guys ford in that ad. It's the same year as mine too. Chances of any truck to go 25 years without no engine leak is rare and probably even less rare on newer cars since they make cars cheaper now with cheaper quality parts.

Unfortunately I did unpurposely overheat it last week for a couple of days on two trips and taking it that since my mech checked the cylinder heads yesterday and checked for any warpage or cracks and said there was none, I would think the overheating was not bad. I consider myself to be very very lucky. He also said that if I did have any warped or cracked heads that I would see symptoms immediately.

And then my other mechanic had a very different opinion on it. He said that it's not even worth checking the heads and that he guarantees they are already warped or cracked.

 

[98FordLove]

Just read this and now really worried.

"THe heads are known for cracking and losing coolant with out leaks. It usually cracks around the exhaust valve and drips in the chamber."

 

[EB4X]

Add a bottle of K-seal to the coolant / radiator to be pro-active ....

 

[laker82]

Hi all,

Joined this forum because it's specific to my Ford, so I would like to hear from other Ford owners. 98 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0L.

I just discovered that I've been driving all along with a coolant leak coming from the timing cover for 2 years now. It seems minor for now as it seemed to have gone about 8 months before it lost 4L of coolant in the radiator. I just refilled the rad and put in 6L of coolant in including top ups. I've had this truck for 2 years now and it runs perfectly fine otherwise. It does have a minor oil leak coming from the valve cover gasket too but I've left this since it was very minor. It has 195k km on the truck and new tires are due within the next 3-4 months.

The question I have is, both short and long term, what would be the problems that could result if i continued to drive the truck with a coolant leak from the timing cover? I'm not talking for years and years but say 1 year? I have a car as well as this Ford truck, so it won't be seeing all the miles but would still be driven daily with maybe some long distance trips in the summer. I am reading about on here that it's the t-housing that is leaking and that often leaks on these 4.0L Ford Explorers? I'm guessing the t-housing is the timing cover?

If I check my coolant say once a week and make it a habit of keeping the coolant topped up and burp out any air pockets from the cooling system whenever I feel a drop in the cabin heat. Do you think this would be okay and buy me time? Can anything super bad result from this (like cause other problems)?

TIA.

Coolant in your oil will absolutely eat up your machined surfaces in your engine like crank bearings and valve train. The less you drive the less it is evaporated and continuing to damage. More common to be leaking at the plastic housing to Aluminum intake or sensor o ring. That will not hurt oil.

 

[98FordLove]

Add a bottle of K-seal to the coolant / radiator to be pro-active ....

Does K-seal prevent future leaks? or least can?

 

[98FordLove]

My biggest worry right now is how confident my mech is that I don't have any cracks in the head. He says hes looked it over and see's nothing. But then I read online that cracks aren't always seen by the human eye and that you should have the head pressure tested at a shop. Uhhh.

So I basically have to trust him and take his word when he says that there are no cracks in the head.

Also, should note, he's not a backyard mechanic. He's a high end mechanic who does very good work so when he says there are no cracks in the heads then I should believe him.

But just seeing that post about how the human eye can't always see cracks worries me.

EDIT: My worries have been put to rest after talking to the mechanic and getting reassured.

 

[98FordLove]

NOT HAPPY!

Im really regret doing this repair now. The bill now has become more than what the truck is worth and this is with my mechanic even giving me docked hours. Right now it's for sure double what I originally targeted. Mind you we replaced a lot more stuff than originally planned but still I feel I am in a money pit right now.

So upset now. I feel I'm wasting my money and money I don't have during a pandemic.

Now I need to find a way to eat the extra costs.

With the state it was in before, I was told I could get $1200-1300 cdn for the truck. But now after all the repairs are done, the value has gone up but not sure by how much. I would think up to $2500 cdn. But if I sell it now, I basically would be lucky to get my money back and I lose out on the $1200-1300 I could have gotten. But I would be foolish to sell it now. Should keep it and drive it for as long as I can.

 

[Chris_A.]

NOT HAPPY!

Im really regret doing this repair now. The bill now has become more than what the truck is worth and this is with my mechanic even giving me docked hours. Right now it's for sure double what I originally targeted. Mind you we replaced a lot more stuff than originally planned but still I feel I am in a money pit right now.

So upset now. I feel I'm wasting my money and money I don't have during a pandemic.

Now I need to find a way to eat the extra costs.

With the state it was in before, I was told I could get $1200-1300 cdn for the truck. But now after all the repairs are done, the value has gone up but not sure by how much. I would think up to $2500 cdn. But if I sell it now, I basically would be lucky to get my money back and I lose out on the $1200-1300 I could have gotten. But I would be foolish to sell it now. Should keep it and drive it for as long as I can.

Repairs to your vehicle can be expensive.

Do not let this bother you.

If you price a car payment you will find that setting that much aside every month will, except in rare instances, pay for the repairs.

The bonus being that you can expect to, eventually, end up with money to buy your next vehicle.

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

If you dont have the time to fix it get you a can of pepper and put about half of it in the rad when it gets low fill it up and drive. If it is a small leak it will seal it off and pepper can be cleaned back out of the block when you get time to fix it,

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

Sorry didnt know i missed a page.

 

[98FordLove]

Repairs to your vehicle can be expensive.

Do not let this bother you.

If you price a car payment you will find that setting that much aside every month will, except in rare instances, pay for the repairs.

The bonus being that you can expect to, eventually, end up with money to buy your next vehicle.

Yes I realize that but there is a point where the repairs just aren't worth it. I've made some bad, costly and regretful choices in the past when it comes to cars so I don't want to go down that road again. Had I known I had this much to fix, I wouldn't have gone ahead with it. If If my mechanic knew too, he told me that he would have told me it's not worth it. Anyways, he feels bad about all of this and the fact it's a lot bigger of a repair job than we originally planned for and he is throwing in some extra stuff like a few oil changes, replacing the oil pan gasket and ATF gasket and fuel filter next week at no extra charge and not charging for like bleeding out the air, cleaning the fuel injectors and a couple other things.

If there's anything positive that comes out of it, it's that I will be getting a truck back with low miles running in pristine tip top shape that shouldn't need any major work done to it for a long long time (will likely not even have the truck anymore by the time this happens). If I can get 3 years out of it, I am happy, 5 years (which I don't see why not) even better. When I get it back today, I would imagine that it will be running amazing.

 

[EB4X]

Does K-seal prevent future leaks? or least can?

K-seal is a reputable sealer, normally I and most DIY'ers don't like or trust snake oil remedies and the fact that many sealers can clog up cooling system -- K seal is the exception to those. I would rest in what your mechanic states but for extra peace of mind add a bottle of this to your coolant...can't hurt and IF there is a very minute crack that he couldn't spot this will most likely seal it... especially being it's so small he could not detect / spot it.
I overheated the same engine (in Ranger) , granted not bad, and my heads / gaskets were fine aftewards.

 

[Summajet]

Okay I just checked and my engine is the OHV push rod, not the SOHC. So looks like I have no plastic thermostat housing? If so, great news. Looks like it's the timing cover gasket then that is causing the leak like the mech said today.

If you do replace the timing cover and the water pump has not been replaced before, prepare yourself as the water pump bolts are prone to breaking off. I did my water pump, timing chain, timing chain gasket, thermostat gasket, thermostat, serpentine belt, and the cooling fan as the fan had several cracks on the plastic housing. I removed all the water pump bolts and of course the last pump bolt broke off inside the housing. I went to the local salvage yard and found a v8 explorer that had just a water pump installed. I removed all of the pump bolts and brought home for any future needs. Once I had the housing removed i then welded on a nut to the end of the broken bolt. I used some kroil oil and let it soak. Then the bolt came right out. My mountaineer is an all wheel drive, v8 302. Typically shops will quote labor for removing the motor from the truck and dropping the oil pan. I was able to replace my timing chain and gasket with the motor still in the truck. I replaced the front timing cover seal, cleaned timing cover surface and surface of the motor. I then used black RTV sealant. Let it get somewhat cured then carefully one movement place the timing cover over the front of the motor. The oil pan gasket generally has to be replaced but the mechanic showed me a trick in using the rtv sealant and placed a thick bead around corners of the oil pan and motor block. This process can cause it to sometimes leak once it is all put back together. As of now no leaks. You can let it go on the leaks but issue will be the underbody/chasis will get premature rust quicker than later.

 

[CDW6212R]

That is why I have stuck with the 302 Explorers. They have generally cost me about $500-$1000 each year to take care of, after bringing them up to my high standards. That's cheap. Every car has inherent costs, repairs and age weaknesses, prior owner's car etc. Prior owners of old cars will be the biggest cost for you in the short term, keep that in mind when hunting for a used car.

The 302's have all reached the point where age makes the timing cover gasket a big deal, the water pump together with it. If you keep that kind of thing in mind, even now after 20 years they are good values for a reliable vehicle.

The 1st gen Explorers are fairly reliable, but the automatic trans is a weak link, and rough use hurts them quickly. But they still keep going when taken care of well.