Ecountering trouble with powertrax install!!! | Ford Explorer Forums

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Ecountering trouble with powertrax install!!!

Vozar

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 12, 2002
Messages
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City, State
Murfreesboro,Tennessee
Year, Model & Trim Level
94,98 & 03 explorer
Ok heres the situation. Im installing the no-slip in my rear. I have got the factory limited slip taken out and i have the no-slip couplers in. The c-clip is installed on the left and the left driver and spacer are in. The problem is that there is not enough clearance to get the right driver and spacer in. I dont know why it wont fit and ive done everything step by step word for word. Im thinknig it might fit if i take out the shims but do i really need them with that tight of a fit.Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Matt
:confused:
 



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First off, you shouldn't need the shims for a proper install. The No-Slips that I have installed in 8.8's didn't need them. You can tell if the spacing is correct by using the rectangular metal bar that comes with the kit. There is supposed to be a gap in the center.

Other possible problems:

1. Your driver teeth aren't aligned properly with your paddle teeth, causing the lack of space. Pull the parts out and make sure that the teeth fully mesh and seat. If they don't, you have to turn the piece inside the paddle (I think I'm remebering the term correctly) until they do. I had that problem when I took the unit out of my X.

2. You have forgotten to put the two pieces together before you slipped them into place. They won't go in separately, only as a unit.

Good Luck
 






in the LS, there are 2 super thin washers (spacers, whatever) that aren't really easy to see that you may have forgotten to pull out. they are enough to cause it to not have enough clearance. luckily for me, gerald was at the campsite when mine was going in and pointed that out while we were installing it. he ran into this problem and finally noticed the two washers.

otherwise, i would say like jeff, the teeth aren't lined up properly.
 






Do you guys have pictures / install instructions for the locker? I purchased one for a LS but it looks like one for a open carrier. I tried calling powertrax but they weren't very helpful.
 






Ok i got everything together and it all fit in there fine and the gap checked out after the pinionshaft was installed. Ive run into another problem though!!!Step 41 says to put the truck in park and i did. then after that are the tests. None of the tests work out. Both axle shafts just spin with each other back and fourth(this is in drive). I dont know why it would say do it in park because the wheels dont turn at all in park.This seems like it was right though because the powertrax has locked the wheels together.And really it doesnt disengage till u turn(but u cant test that on jack stands).
So are the instructions wrong or what!!!

Harry5150- i got a couple pics i will post em here in a little while. The powertrax size can decieve u. You have alot more room when u take out the LS.
 






so what was the problema fordbeast originally fordbeast?

harry.. did you check the part #s with the ones on the website? i don't know that the two will look much different.
 






The tests are a little difficult to do with one person. I had to get someone to help me by holding the opposite wheel. If the driving tests work out, then it's probably fine. I also found the instructions for the static test a little fuzzy.....
 






jasonb- the problem is that the tests arent turning out the way they are suppost to.

jdraper-I did the test with my brother and hes was on the left side with a lug wrench holding it and i was doing the test like it said.For example on one of the tests. The directions say:

42. Turn driver side wheel forward and hold against driveline.

43. Passenger side wheel should not be able to rotate in same direction.

With my brother holding the driverside wheel i turn it in the same direction on the passenger side and it doesnt move but he can barely hold the left because it is trying to move on the left side forward also.

44. Passengerside wheel should rotate freely in opposite direction.

With my brother holding the left wheel again i turn ther right wheel in the opposite direction(reverse)and all it wants to do is pull the left side wheel back. In all the tests the wheels are just locked together are turn back and fourth together.U cant move the right wheel forward and the left wheel backwards.The are locked together. Isnt that why its called a "locker".Its seems to be doing its job but the tests seem kind of goofy!

All these tests were done in drive and not in park as it asks.The reason for that is because the wheels dont move at all in park.Why would it ask to the test in park. The wheels dont move at all in park.

IM trying to get this done before monday because i have to drive to school on monday. Thanks for the help so far guys,

-Matt-
 






In this case you need to pay attention to the instructions! You need to do the test in park because you need the pressure against the drivetrain to check for release! This is an autolocker, so you need to simulate force on the drivetrain to see if it releases when it should. If you don't put it in park, the tests won't work. What you are doing is putting pressure on the drivetrain by rotating the passenger's wheel forward against the locked driveshaft. Once that pressure is on, you then attempt to rotate the driver's wheel forward. It should lock. HOWEVER when you rotate the driver's wheel backwards (with the passengers wheel still being rotated forward against the drivetrain.) It should release and spin (this may take a little force, or rocking the wheel back and forth, but what you are doing is testing to make sure the locker releases when it should, and acts more like an open diff.


DOING THE TESTS IN DRIVE WILL NOT WORK
 






ok i found out what the problem is but i need to take the passenger side c-clip back out of the powertrax. I cant get it out of the slot. Any suggestions?
 






nevermind that, everything is double checked and right.The only thing now is that the pinion shaft is only going in 75% of the way and is getting caught on some thing. Ill keep on trying to get it in and get back to you.
 






Be careful when you put the pinion shaft back in. If one of the saddle springs is sticking out to far and you force the shaft in, you will screw up the spring. That happened on mine and I ended up having to get a new spring kit sent. About 75% in is about where the shaft will come into contact with the springs.

Also, my carrier needed to have shims put back in to tighten it up a bit. My 4.10 also came with a limited slip. After about 1000 miles of use, my No-Slip got so loose that it was banging and grabbing when it shouldn't have been. Just coasting to a stop and applying my brakes was enough to get it to lock up which would then activate my ABS. I opened it up and used the Powertrax measuring block (gauge) to see if the gaps were correct. The block would easily fit in either orientation which meant there was too much space. When I called Powertrax they said that it was imperitive that I close the gap to the correct tollerences or it wouldn't work properly. Since Desert Rat put it in, I had them put the shims in to close the gap. Unfortunately, I had sold all of my parts that came out and undoubtably could have reused some of the shims. They had a hard time trying to come up with them and get me out the same day. Since it was there error (among other errors that they made), I didn't mind making them jump through hoops to get it working correctly.

My No-Slip still bangs more than it did during the first 1000 miles and still locks up once in a while without power being applied, but at least it is manageable enough now that my Wife will drive it. I have no doubts though that when the time comes to sell my Explorer, the locker will have to be removed or it will scare away any potential buyers with the noises and clunks that it causes.
 






Ok, pinion still wont go in and im trying to get the right side c-clip out and it wont come out because the slotted spacer in the slotted driver is in the way. I believe the spacer is in the way because the drive teeth on the left are engaging all the way except for a cople of them. I also cant explain this.I think some how the slotted spacer in the slotted driver got out of wack when i rotated it to put the pinion in. Im going to start back from square one again once i get the right side c-clip out,but i cant get it out. Any suggestions,

Matt
 






robert-im positive its not the saddle springs.WHen i flip the powertax around and put the pinoin shaft in it gets caught up in the same place.I have tons of grease on them too. My dilema now is to get the right side c-clip out and i cant to start back to square one.
 






Ok guys good news! I finished the install and everything turned out good. I did the tests and they worked right. I test drove it last night and no problems.
Thanks guys for all the help and now im going to hopefully do the front one in a couple weeks.I will post some pics in my photo gallery.ANy questions just ask me. Thanks, Matt
 






Sounds like the problems I had in my D35 in the XJ

Glad everything worked out for you.
 






Thanks John. Eveything got all worked out in a weekend.
 






Ok i got the front lockright installed by a shop. Is the break in time 50 miles also like the no-slip. I just want to double check, Thanks

Matt
 






Howdy FB98

I do not see how any miles at all would cause the locker to "break in". It is not even turning unless it is ingaged. If it is ingaged then the "break in" time is over.
Big Jim :) :)
 



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Glad all worked out Matt, had the same identical problems you had with my install on my 03 trac but found the PT tech guys to be very helpfull in my case (via phone) there email tech line is useless, biggest mistake I made was trying to run the tests with the tires off, no can do, as you need the inertia to make the unit function, lotta work, easy install, love mine
 






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