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Electric shift motor...

BExplorer

Well-Known Member
Joined
April 9, 2000
Messages
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City, State
Mirabel, Quebec, Canada
Year, Model & Trim Level
94' XL 4x4
Here goes... last day I rebuilted the shift motor with DR. Bob advices, it works fine when applying voltage to pins on connector, but when pushing the 4x4 button it goes tru 4x4low and it does not want to come back. Manually (or electrically) I put the motor in 4x4hi and unlock the hubs (snowing for the 2 last days) because if needed badly can lock hubs and get out of any mess. Still, I dont know what is wrong, the control module seems to work fine, HELP!!!!! Need 4x4 to work, I dont want to stay that way with temperature to -15, I cant work long outside and now snow is here.
 



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Any idea...

It is snowing again, anyone HELP!!!!
 






Try this:

Remove the shift motor from the T-case. There are two long screws that hold the motor housing together with . There are nuts on the ends of these screws that hold the mounting tab in place. Remove the nuts and mounting tab. Loosen the screws and then re-tighten them HAND TIGHT ONLY. Then replace the mounting tab and nuts.

I don't exactly know why but this has cured all my Tcase issues (and I think I've had them all).

Good luck...
 






I had to do the motor rebuild recently - mine wouldn't engage, had the classic two clicks from the rear and no 4WD. I didn't have the problem you have so I'm guessing to a point.

When I removed the shift motor, the transfer case lever was pointed directly to "2H", which I expected since I knew I was in 2WD. I didn't apply any voltage to the motor, so I expected it would still be in 2WD when I reattached it to the transfer case. My impression from looking at the transfer case is that when you push the button for 4H, the motor rotates the lever to that point, and when you push the button for 4L, the motor rotates the lever even further to the 4L position. When you turn off 4L or 4WD, the motor rotates the lever back to the right spot.

1) Did you try disconnecting the battery? Your problem may have something to do with the position sensor "thinking" it's in the wrong position.

2) Does your 4WD light on the dash turn off? If you remove the motor from the case and push the dash button to turn 4WD off, at least in theory the motor (not the transfer case) should be positioned in the 2WD position. If you then manually reposition the transfer case lever to 2WD then reinstall the motor, everything should be lined up to be in 2WD, then when you push the button for 4H, the motor should only move to the 4H position. If you can't bolt the motor back to the transfer case because the lever and the motor are misaligned, you'll need to reposition the actuator so that the motor will bolt on.

If I remember correctly, 2H is at the 9 o'clock position. Mark your motor housing at 9:00 when it's still bolted to the transfer case so that you can see that the actuator is pointing to the right spot if you need to reposition it, then when you bolt everything together it should properly line up.

Did you disassemble the position sensor at all? If so, did you mark it? Maybe if that's off somehow, it could be causing your problems.

After you've made the adjustments, disconnect the battery for a minute. Many have noted that this helps the sensor figure out where it is.

When I did this job I was very careful to mark the alignment of everything before/as I disassembled so that things would be in the position when I reassembled it.

Hope this helps.
Longs
 






Motor...

I did get the plastic sealed postionner off, and did two marks to put it back.I disconnected the battery for 2 hours with no luck. I did not open the ting, I heard that maybe the wheel contact in that ting could be ofset but I dont know how to open it. I'm thinking that wheel has contact problem. If I get nothing out of it, I will put a flip switch and some lignts to see position, and do the shifting manualy(my plan is almost made). Maybe I will have to play with the 4x4hi position(2hi and 4x4low at each end position) but at least it will work, all that because the stupid motor is 400$, and I dont want to invest 100$ into a used one that will probably die too...
 






If you got those torx screws out, you should be able to remove the cover and clean everything up inside with electronic contact cleaner. Make sure everything's clean, lined up, and that all contact mating surfaces actually touch. Also make sure that the rubber stop that's referenced in Dr. Bob's tips is intact - it's on the back of the rotor actuator plate.

Longs
 






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