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Electric Window Issue

Dr_Rich

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Joined
March 6, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Beaverton, OR
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 Explorer
Our '94 XLT has an electric windows.
You can raise or lower the Pass side window with the control pad on the pass side, but now the master electric window switch (On the driver door) won't raise or lower the pass side window.
I have pulled and inspected controls on each door, and even checked the electric current on the driver side controls, and it is getting current in either up or down. It is just not getting signal to the pass door. Is there a connection that has come loose? I checked our Haynes manual, and I can't find any connections under the dash (Listed) to check.
Has anyone had this issue, and knows how what the fix is?
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
~Richard
 



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I had this problem on my 94 XLT though with the rear windows. The switches on the windows themselves worked fine, but I couldn't get them to work from the master control on the driver's door. I took the switch panel out and cleaned the contacts using emery cloth, then actually had to bend the contacts a little to get a good connection when the buttons were pressed. Since then they have been working fine. Not sure if this will work on yours but worth a try for 10 minutes work. Good luck
 






Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it.
I think it is more than that though. I checked the driverside controls with a test meter, and all of the driverside controls are sending out current for up/down window controls, both for driver and pass side.
I am thinking that there is a loose connection (Under the dash?) or a connection that came loose. So the driverside controls are not communicating with the pass side controls.
Any other thoughts?

~Thanks again!
 






Rich, there is no problem in your truck away from the master switch.

The fact that you have functioning windows at the other switches is proof that the power and ground master circuits are fine. Both the power and ground for every single window goes through the master switch.

Thus the problem must be in or at the master switch. Each of those buttons on the master switch does two things, not one. Of the two wires going to those individual master switches, one is going to be the power for that circuit, and the other is the ground. Each press of those switches must both add power to one wire, and at the same time isolate it from ground.

The post above(#2) may be your issue. The tiny copper contacts underneath each switch are extremely fragile. They are easy to bend, even just removing the platic cover and installing it can bend them.

To install those switch covers, be absolutely sure that it goes on square, and level, and goes down evenly. Good luck,
 












The master switch works differently from the other three switches, that one set works and the other doesn't points to the master switch, again.

If you pull one of those other three switches, that window will not work. The power and ground goes through the terminals of those individual switches.

Bottom line, swap out the master switch, chances are 99.9% that that is the problem. Good luck,
 






Thanks Guys!
I will give this a try tomorrow.
I appreciate all you great info!

Thanks again!
~Richard
 






One last thing to think about. There is a window master "brain box" in your driver side door, above the interior light (when you remove the inside panel. You will know it by it having a date code on it.) If all else fails, go to the bone yard & grab a box. Hopefully get one with a newer date code. But most important, look at the connectors. Any black or white prongs are bad. Should all be a gold / copper color. I needed one, got it for 10 bucks.
Walter
 






BTW, that"...window master "brain box" in your driver side door..." is simply the LF auto down module. Those were used from 93-97 I believe. They are eliminated in later models, the auto down function is inside of GEM modules now.

I used my 93 auto down module and wiring, for my 99 RF window. Regards,
 






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