Electrical Problems, Expert Needed

[96V8Xploder]

Hi, Im new here and have my first seriuos question for help.I just bought a explorer 2 weeks ago,and It has only one major issue I want to fix.

My problem is that when I turn the car off and remove the key from the ignition,the heater/ac blower stays on,and the power windows still go up and down.The window switches should die once the door is opened.3 nights ago the battery was killed because I didnt turn the heater switch to off.Does anyone have any idea whats causing this? All other accessories turn off like normal.

 

[CDW6212R]

I don't know the answer to that, but it my first thought would be the GEM module. That is where a lot of the electronic controls are, and the window power control when the ignition is off. The GEM for those 95/96 are different from later models, try to check the part number on it and be sure that at least it should be the right GEM. Good luck,

 

[budwich]

its unlikely to be a gem problem.... more likely a stuck relay either battery saver or accessory delay... check both with a meter.

 

[96V8Xploder]

its unlikely to be a gem problem.... more likely a stuck relay either battery saver or accessory delay... check both with a meter.

I pulled every relay on the car two days ago to see if one controls both the windows and heater blower.None do.Can the the ignition swith be the cause.I dont here any clicking when key is turned to on or accessory.And even when I turn the key off.I only get maybe one relay clicking instead of the nornal 2-5 relays clicking.

 

[budwich]

I don't have access to my schematics (they are at home)... and was going from memory. However, your statement "pulled every relay" sounds pretty thorough...but does that mean you actually pulled the relays in question... (which are where... question to you). From my recollection, your windows can not work without the accessory delay relay in place.... hence my "doubts" about your statement.... but I could be wrong as my memory is getting old fast... .

 

[96V8Xploder]

I don't have access to my schematics (they are at home)... and was going from memory. However, your statement "pulled every relay" sounds pretty thorough...but does that mean you actually pulled the relays in question... (which are where... question to you). From my recollection, your windows can not work without the accessory delay relay in place.... hence my "doubts" about your statement.... but I could be wrong as my memory is getting old fast... .

I confused you I think,I was trying to find one relay that might control both the power windows and heater blower.I Looked in all 4 relay boxs.They are on seperate relays.The One under the air filter box shut off the heater blower and the one under the dash shut off the power windows when pulled.I tried to replace them but the windows and heater blower still stay on with key out and door open.

 

[96V8Xploder]

I confused you I think,I was trying to find one relay that might control both the power windows and heater blower.I Looked in all 4 relay boxs.They are on seperate relays.The One under the air filter box shut off the heater blower and the one under the dash shut off the power windows when pulled.I tried to replace them but the windows and heater blower still stay on with key out and door open.

If I got to the store and leave my windows cracked.Someone can reach in and power the windows down.Even when the alarm is on.The heater blower will stay on too unless I turn the switch to off.

 

[solitary ogre]

the first place i would look would be the ignition switch in the steering collum. when you turn the key it brings several contacts into place all at once. perhaps a part of this sliding switch is broken or dislodged or has something inside it causing a hot wire to jump to things that are supposed to be off with the key removed. it could also be a pinched wires someplace else causing things to go hot.

 

[96V8Xploder]

the first place i would look would be the ignition switch in the steering collum. when you turn the key it brings several contacts into place all at once. perhaps a part of this sliding switch is broken or dislodged or has something inside it causing a hot wire to jump to things that are supposed to be off with the key removed. it could also be a pinched wires someplace else causing things to go hot.

Thanks,Im thinking a shorted wire is the problem to.If anyone has had this problem before and had it fixed please let me no.

 

[eXcali]

I have had the problem before on another car, it turned out to be with the ignition, try using a little bit of lock grease on it and putting your key in and out. My problem was some of the tumblers in the lock were sticking so the ignition would not lock completely and would slide just enuff to turn the accessories on. *sorry if I'm not making sense in explanation, unfortunately I've been drinking* But try a very small touch of lithium grease in ignition.

 

[budwich]

thanks for the clarification.... one more small question, with your limited history with this vehicle, how do you know that the two problems are directly related?

 

[96V8Xploder]

thanks for the clarification.... one more small question, with your limited history with this vehicle, how do you know that the two problems are directly related?

Ive had fords all my life.Specificly rangers and explorers.I just found this site two days ago.I have a very good understanding of how ford electrical works so when something like this goes wrong it has to be a directly related.This is my 6th car in the years 95-01.Electrical is my weekpoint when it comes to diagnostic.

 

[Cobraguy]

Interesting problem. Assuming this is NOT ATC...The blower continuing to run is the strange fly in the ointment. It isn't tied into any accessory delay or battery saver relay anywhere. However, the windows are. All the window relays appear to be in the Relay Module under the dash. The blower relays are under the air box. (please note there are TWO blower relays there...one "blower motor relay" and one "high speed blower relay".) But I see no way the blower and windows are connected in any way.

 

[wyochimneysweep]

yeah both are not linked to each other so that would point me to ingition switch under the steering column not doing its job correctly or the previous owner made it so the fan and windows worked all the time for some reason or a failed attempt at installing a remote start into the vechile (have came across this twice where someone cut the wires then tired a acc wire into the battery wire and would kill the battery) funny thing is they will bring it to the shop not say anything about what they did and you such for a hour or two and then 30 minutes fixing and they complain about the bill. or what i really hate is when they bring it in cuz something isnt working and you find the fuse misssing and they say oh yeah i blew another fuse and moved it and complain about the hour bill for diagnosing stupidity

 

[96V8Xploder]

Good morning everyone,after further inspecting this issue I noticed that the a/c compressor stays powered on too.When I got in the car this morning I turned on the heater blower first thing and rolled the windows down before putting the key in.When I turn the knob to an a/c position I hear a relay click and the compressor activate.

I will replace the ignition switch today.Does anyone have a wire diagram for the factory alarms,I think this might be a part on this issue.

Does every explorer have an alarm installed from the factory?My ranger was that way in 2001.A mechanic said to me every car had it already installed,they just charged you to activate it and for the remotes.I bought a ranger brand new in 2001,the sticker on the window said no alarm,I bought it as an extra,when I left the dealer told me to drive down to get 5 gallons of gas and the mechanic will come activate the alarm.It took him 10 seconds.Paper work for the car said nothing about an alarm as an accessorie.What year did they start this if its true?

My car has an aftermarket alarm and I have a filling the previous owner had someone put an alarm in it,and the mechanic riped him off by wiring a different horn and may have cut some wires then just activated it.I sometimes have two horns blairing when the alarm goes off.And a smaller lighter sound horn always blows when armed/disarmed.Panic button sets off the stock horn only.Anyone have suggestions.I want to go back to stock alarm.

 

[budwich]

Ive had fords all my life.Specificly rangers and explorers.I just found this site two days ago.I have a very good understanding of how ford electrical works so when something like this goes wrong it has to be a directly related.This is my 6th car in the years 95-01.Electrical is my weekpoint when it comes to diagnostic.

sorry I didn't mean to imply that you knew nothing about fords but was alluding to your history with this particular vehicle. You have then just posted some of that history...thanks again for the clar.

Anyways, I think your AC "stuff" is "standard function" as your compressor will come on in various selections besides just "AC".

Well... my memory returned a bit more.... I think. Your initial issues ARE likely related to your ignition or "some screwed up wiring" that your mentioned with the alarm...Does your alarm system have a remote starter portion??? That could be your problem as "things" have to be wired in for the "fake" of "key on" for starting. But back to your problem...this is the likely reason for the relationship of the problems.... your blower motor relay "operates" from a "hot in run" power source with ground always being there in the wiring...so when your vehicle "thinks" its "on" and you turn your heater switchon, the relay pulls up and the fan goes on...your pulling and replacing it with another indicates that it is NOT a stuck relay...and since the ground is always there, the only reason for the relay being up is that there is a "constant hot in run" voltage source going to the relay coil. This IS related to your other issue (ie. windows, battery not being saved, opening doors not dropping the accessory delay relay). The relationship is thru your GEM. It is "detecting" the "hot in run" condition somewhere (ignition or other wiring) and as a result, it is leaving a ground on the battery saver and accessory delay (not quite sure of the specifics as I still don't have my drawings). This is leaving those relays operated basically for ever as they get battery in "hot at all times"... hence your problems. So your issue is to track down where your "hot in run" is coming from... the ignition is a good start but I suspect your alarm system is the culprit. Hope that helps.

 

[CDW6212R]

From the other suggestions I would then have looked at the ignition, the accessory position would do that.

With an aftermarket alarm or remote starter, electrical problems are common. If the ignition switch(key) doesn't feel at all loose, I would expect the aftermarket alarm to be the cause. They always add wiring to bypass the factory ignition system, and often they can cross circuits while still seeming to function as intended.

Pull the trim panel off below the steering column, then the steel plate, to see the main wiring under the column. You will likely need a diagram of the OEM main wires, to figure out which have been cut or spliced into. Regards,

 

[96V8Xploder]

sorry I didn't mean to imply that you knew nothing about fords but was alluding to your history with this particular vehicle. You have then just posted some of that history...thanks again for the clar.

Anyways, I think your AC "stuff" is "standard function" as your compressor will come on in various selections besides just "AC".

Well... my memory returned a bit more.... I think. Your initial issues ARE likely related to your ignition or "some screwed up wiring" that your mentioned with the alarm...Does your alarm system have a remote starter portion??? That could be your problem as "things" have to be wired in for the "fake" of "key on" for starting. But back to your problem...this is the likely reason for the relationship of the problems.... your blower motor relay "operates" from a "hot in run" power source with ground always being there in the wiring...so when your vehicle "thinks" its "on" and you turn your heater switchon, the relay pulls up and the fan goes on...your pulling and replacing it with another indicates that it is NOT a stuck relay...and since the ground is always there, the only reason for the relay being up is that there is a "constant hot in run" voltage source going to the relay coil. This IS related to your other issue (ie. windows, battery not being saved, opening doors not dropping the accessory delay relay). The relationship is thru your GEM. It is "detecting" the "hot in run" condition somewhere (ignition or other wiring) and as a result, it is leaving a ground on the battery saver and accessory delay (not quite sure of the specifics as I still don't have my drawings). This is leaving those relays operated basically for ever as they get battery in "hot at all times"... hence your problems. So your issue is to track down where your "hot in run" is coming from... the ignition is a good start but I suspect your alarm system is the culprit. Hope that helps.

No worries, no offense taken.I'm about to install the ignition switch and I will edit the posting to let you no if it works.And it has no remote start option.When I unpluged the old one everything lost power like it should.So lets pray its it. Well NO GO guys. Did not work.

My next idea is to pull the entire alarm out,Redo it factory specs.Im very good at electrical wiring,I wired custom boats for a while a couple years back but cars are way more intense.I guess its time to break out the old notes and start running new wires.I will keep you informed,I'm gonna start by pulling the alarm out and hope I get the power killed that way.

I NEED A FACTORY ALARM WIRING DIAGRAM PLEASE:wavey: The alarm brain under my dash has FORD all over it,but I can gaurantee the wiring is not ford.:fire:I bet thats the problem.

 

[fixxxer]

If you still need electrical schematics and connector diagrams, I have a copy of the 1995 ones here http://www.scribd.com/doc/10112665/95-Explorer-Diagrams The two years should be VERY close

 

[96V8Xploder]

If you still need electrical schematics and connector diagrams, I have a copy of the 1995 ones here http://www.scribd.com/doc/10112665/95-Explorer-Diagrams The two years should be VERY close

Thanks, that should help me in some areas I hope,over 1000 pages worth,right on