Electrical Problems, Expert Needed

[96V8Xploder]

Well I had no luck.Removed the alarm and I still have the windows and heater blower always working.I need a full set of wiring diagrams for a 1996 xlt 5.0L 2wd.I need to no what every relay does and where they are located.I dont see any shorts anywhere so it must be something that is very rare.I dont understand why my radio will turn off but nothing else does.

 

[Cobraguy]

oh damn...I just thought of something. Does this have an aftermarket radio in it? See if someone has connected both a constantly hot wire to a hot when the key is on circuit. I've seen this happen so the owner can play the stereo without a key. But what happens is power back feeds the hot with key on circuit with a constant 12V.

It's also possible this has happened somewhere when installing the alarm by somebody who didn't know what they were doing.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, I have had to use diodes in several circuits which I've added in my work vehicle. I have one in my main radio power wire, to allow me to run it from my auxiliary circuits, regardless of the ignition switch. Good call, any wiring work done on a vehicle needs to be done right, or all kinds of issues can occur.

 

[96V8Xploder]

I just replaced the aftermarket stereo in it with a nicer one and I hooked it up correctly.Its about my 200th stereo I installed so Im sure it right.I found a wire that looks burnt or shall I say fried.It just so happens to be a blk/ppl wire that supplies the #20 fuse.Its the acc power.Im getting closer.

 

[96V8Xploder]

I found some very helpfull wiring diagrams. These diagrams are fully detailed. 60+ pages worth.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235278

 

[CDW6212R]

I just replaced the aftermarket stereo in it with a nicer one and I hooked it up correctly.Its about my 200th stereo I installed so Im sure it right.I found a wire that looks burnt or shall I say fried.It just so happens to be a blk/ppl wire that supplies the #20 fuse.Its the acc power.Im getting closer.

There you go, you almost have it.

 

[budwich]

I just replaced the aftermarket stereo in it with a nicer one and I hooked it up correctly.Its about my 200th stereo I installed so Im sure it right.I found a wire that looks burnt or shall I say fried.It just so happens to be a blk/ppl wire that supplies the #20 fuse.Its the acc power.Im getting closer.

This goes back to my question on the history of this problem / vehicle. When did these two problems first happen??? in relationship to "changes" made by you or "others"?

 

[96V8Xploder]

This goes back to my question on the history of this problem / vehicle. When did these two problems first happen??? in relationship to "changes" made by you or "others"?

It was like it when I bought it. Ive been trying to troubleshoot it one thing at a time. I didnt like the last stereo job so I rewired a new one in, sodered and heat shrinked.

If the old plugs are cut can this be an issue with it? Nothing is grounding out as far as I see. I cleaned all the wires up.

Also like I explained earlier the stereo works like normal. Shuts off with key on off and turns on when at run or acc.

 

[reznor252]

Does the power go off when you open another door? If the door pin is stuck or broken the power windows/blower will continue to work with the door open.

 

[96V8Xploder]

Does the power go off when you open another door? If the door pin is stuck or broken the power windows/blower will continue to work with the door open.

Nope tried that, with all the doors open I still get power to everything. I forgot to mention my blinkers(turn signals) still work with the key off and out of ignition for some reason everything else thinks the keys at run and the stereo is the only one working right.

And the door pins are fine, the interior lights function like normal when doors are opened and closed.

 

[96V8Xploder]

I just bought a brand new ignition lock with key. Lets see what she does. That was a no go too. When I pull the #26 fuse It kills everything like it should except the inside lights now dont work with door open. It must be within this area.

 

[96V8Xploder]

So whats the deal with fuse #26 , why is this my problem? It has nothing to do with the heater blower or power windows. Did the transmission range sensor fry. Is that why it thinks its in run all the time. I dont get that loud buzzer when leaving the head lights on either.
I replaced the ignition lock and switch. Whats going on here?

 

[Cobraguy]

I just bought a brand new ignition lock with key. Lets see what she does. That was a no go too.

Oh boy...I hate to tell you this, but you replaced the wrong part. You don't replace the lock cylinder and key...you replace the ignition switch down on the steering column. There is a rod that connects the key cylinder mechanism to the ignition switch. This is what you are looking for:

http://c2c.activant.com/ctoc/index.jsp?ID=bEz1rACw.PnRwOFN9CU8KfmRGVRoVYFEJVncf

Remember to properly adjust it when installing it so the key will operate it in all modes.

 

[Cobraguy]

So whats the deal with fuse #26 , why is this my problem? It has nothing to do with the heater blower or power windows. Did the transmission range sensor fry. Is that why it thinks its in run all the time. I dont get that loud buzzer when leaving the head lights on either.
I replaced the ignition lock and switch. Whats going on here?

You know, I wonder if it's being back fed through that circuit and pulling the fuse stops that. You may have found a circuit that needs investigating. I still think this sounds like power is being placed on a circuit where it shouldn't be. I'm sorry, but the only way I know to answer that is very close inspection of all the wiring and see if something has melted together or someone has spliced into something they shouldn't have. This could be done at the ignition switch...or any other number of places someone decided to tap into a circuit they shouldn't have.

 

[96V8Xploder]

You know, I wonder if it's being back fed through that circuit and pulling the fuse stops that. You may have found a circuit that needs investigating. I still think this sounds like power is being placed on a circuit where it shouldn't be. I'm sorry, but the only way I know to answer that is very close inspection of all the wiring and see if something has melted together or someone has spliced into something they shouldn't have. This could be done at the ignition switch...or any other number of places someone decided to tap into a circuit they shouldn't have.

I agree, a previous owner must have done some bad wiring. Thanks, I will inspect for faulty wiring. I will keep you all posted on what resolves this issue. I did find one wire that looked bad but it turned out to be good and its the one that powers the radio on and off when the ignitions ingauged.

 

[96V8Xploder]

I found the problem, But it didnt fix it. Could my GEM be toast. The reverse lights were grounded out. I never noticed they didnt work and now they do once I fixed it. The GEM is linked to the circuit which controls the revers lights. Could this have harmed the GEM.

 

[Cobraguy]

The GEM does so many things, it's hard to say. But if you can get your hands on a known good one easily, I would sure try it to see...or at least eliminate it from the equation.

One other thing...is there a trailer harness on this? Have they run a 12V charge (hot) wire in that harness?

 

[96V8Xploder]

The GEM does so many things, it's hard to say. But if you can get your hands on a known good one easily, I would sure try it to see...or at least eliminate it from the equation.

One other thing...is there a trailer harness on this? Have they run a 12V charge (hot) wire in that harness?

Yes there is a factory trailer wire harness. It looks like no one ever tampered with it. The only two things added to this car were a second alarm and aftermarket stereo.

 

[96V8Xploder]

Now I have found the problem. Fuse #26 kills the power when pulled so I was thinking it had to be within this circuit. Now after further inspection, the purple/orange wire that is linked into fuse #26 stays powered with the fuse removed. If im right this should be a dead wire now.

 

[fixxxer]

That fuse should only have power to it with the ignition sw in the "run" position. If you pull the fuse out and the P/O wire still has power, you've isolated the area to look. The fuse is fed from the ignition sw via a GY/Y wire. The heater-a/c control is also fed by this GY/Y wire as is the hazard/turn-signal flasher. With the fuse in, 12v+ is supplied to the 4x2 solenoid, 4x4 solenoid, DRL module and trans range-sensor (A/T) or backup light sw (M/T) Those modules all are supplied by P/O wires