List of Useful Threads Everything I know about the M5OD-R1 & BW1354M

[RangerX]

Im buying an automatic sohc explorer 2003. can you give me just a list of all that i will need to make it manual. I dont need sites where to buy them i get a discount at work. I need just a parts list. That would be help full

Welcome. Your best bet is to go into the section for your generation Explorer and search there for threads on it. Not sure if it's been done on the newer models...

 

[fordapprentice96]

i just bought a 99 explorer 4x4 auto 2 door. what is the easiest conversion to manual. I want to use an auto tcase and im doing this in my drive way lol

 

[fordapprentice96]

Welcome. Your best bet is to go into the section for your generation Explorer and search there for threads on it. Not sure if it's been done on the newer models...

im all done the conversion only thing holding me up from driving it is the stupid tranny codes so I can pass e test. and I would like to know if there is another way then plugging in the solenoids

 

[BonesDT]

I'm still running solenoids perfectly. Only other way I could imagine is getting a flash chip made to deactivate auto codes. I forget the company but call a flash chip company that knows Explorers.

 

[rolleye]

Frankenclutch ?

I have started a thread I think my 4.0 SOHC is hooped ... and I am seriously thinking about swapping in a low mileage '05 - '11 Ranger 4.0 motor.

My truck, PJ, is a 2002 4x4 Explorer Sport SOHC with a 5 speed. Earlier in this thread you said:

Later, the 210hp SOHC engine, which uses the R1HD trans, uses a dual-mass flywheel (which I think contains springs or something inside). These are typical on heavy duty manual diesel pickups. This flywheel ranges from $400 to dealership $800. Apparantly, these flywheels can't be resurfaced, which means everytime you replace your clutch, you'll need $800 for a brand new flywheel. Have fun with that.

I am planning on doing - or getting done - the clutch if I pull the motor and would need to order all the bits.

Will it be a Frankenclutch lol or is the situation simplified ?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Scott B.]

Alright back from the dead. I've got a 1994 ranger 4.0 5pd 2wd that I am looking to convert to 4wd. My motor and transmission is very strong so I want to keep as many parts from my truck as I can. I've read that manual trucks are much easier. From what I understand I will need a rear bell housing and driveshaft from a 4x4 as it is longer and that a manual 1354 transfer case is the way to go. I'm guessing I will also need the cv shafts and all the other front components for driving and turning the front wheels. I will have help from some friends who have a better understanding of trucks than me as I am new to them. I apologize for being so ignorant. I went by my local scrap yard looking for ranger, b series, explorers etc this morning for 4x4s. I found 2 97 explorers and a 95 explorer . I also found an 85 bronco. All with 4wd. However all are automatic and my truck is manual so is there anything useful on those vehicles? The explorers all had an electronic 4x4 switch, the 97s options were auto, 4x4 high, low. Whereas the 95 had 2wd, 4x4 auto, 4x4 low. The bronco had the manual 4x4 shifter on the floor with 2H, 4H, N, and 4L. This interested me. I seem to remember seeing a pile of diffs but there may have been some transfer cases in there. Please give me direction.

Thanks,
Ben

Ben,

I have manual transfer case for sale, if you are intereted: link

 

[BonesDT]

Guys, I'm donating my Explorer to Kars4Kids. The BW1354M transfer case is out of the truck and for sale separately. The ultra rare FX4 transmission shifter is available too. If you are interested in the M5OD-R1HD 4x4 transmission (with the t-case shifter bolt bosses), you have to take the whole truck. I almost killed people to get these 3 rare items, so I'd hate for them to end up in a crusher. There's also the Kenwood DNX9140 and APC clear tail lights. Email me if you are interested, otherwise, it's gone in a week or 2.

It was a nice run with you Explorer fans. Unfortunately, it's time for me to move on in life.

 

[Four0Sport]

Pmd

 

[Sonic_Mikey]

Iv been digging around for a thread like this and Im hopping someone can help me.

I have a 96 with the 4R55E trans and auto transfer case and Im pricing out a comparison between getting it rebuild (quoted $1500) or just doing the manual conversion. The pedal assembly (6L5Z-2455-BB), clutch master and slave, flywheel and clutch kit are fairly easy to come by, so im not worried about that. I do, however, have some questions that I hope can be answered.

1. Are the flex plate and flywheel bolts interchangeable? (I wont reuse them, just more of a "just in case i have to" situation)
2. Are the bolts holding the AT to the block the same as the MT?
2. Did Ford do some weird thing where the crank is machined differently between auto and manual versions? (I have seen this at work with JY engines a few times)
3. Any ENGINE sensors that need to be changed?
4. Are all the M5R1 transmissions the same as long as they where mated to a 4L OHV engine and 4x4? or do I need to stay as close as possible to my model year? (bell housing changes?)
5. I have *possibly* located a 96 MT ECU, are the connectors the same between auto and manual? (I know I wont need the AT side of the harness, but does the reverse light signal need to go in somewhere on the AT side of the ECU?)

I most likely wont be able to get my hands on the MT harness, but I have no issue wiring in my own connectors to convert the AT harness to manual. I also have access to Mitchell OnDemand so I am going to print off the power distribution diagrams so i can have a good look at what exactly is different wiring wise between to 2.

 

[gmanpaint]

Iv been digging around for a thread like this and Im hopping someone can help me.

I have a 96 with the 4R55E trans and auto transfer case and Im pricing out a comparison between getting it rebuild (quoted $1500) or just doing the manual conversion. The pedal assembly (6L5Z-2455-BB), clutch master and slave, flywheel and clutch kit are fairly easy to come by, so im not worried about that. I do, however, have some questions that I hope can be answered.

1. Are the flex plate and flywheel bolts interchangeable? (I wont reuse them, just more of a "just in case i have to" situation)
2. Are the bolts holding the AT to the block the same as the MT?
2. Did Ford do some weird thing where the crank is machined differently between auto and manual versions? (I have seen this at work with JY engines a few times)
3. Any ENGINE sensors that need to be changed?
4. Are all the M5R1 transmissions the same as long as they where mated to a 4L OHV engine and 4x4? or do I need to stay as close as possible to my model year? (bell housing changes?)
5. I have *possibly* located a 96 MT ECU, are the connectors the same between auto and manual? (I know I wont need the AT side of the harness, but does the reverse light signal need to go in somewhere on the AT side of the ECU?)

I most likely wont be able to get my hands on the MT harness, but I have no issue wiring in my own connectors to convert the AT harness to manual. I also have access to Mitchell OnDemand so I am going to print off the power distribution diagrams so i can have a good look at what exactly is different wiring wise between to 2.

You might find a couple of your answers in this thread.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/going-full-manual.254763/

Your going from an OBD II setup, and that thread is for an OBD I.5 setup, so not everything will be answered for you, but there is still some relevant info, for your swap.

 

[Sonic_Mikey]

Im almost done my conversion but I'v hit a snag with the PCM. I managed to find one from a local JY from a 96 Ex amazingly, however when i went to install it, I noticed the manual trans PCM wants to be mounted upside down in respect to how the automatic PCM came out. If you look where the pins come out, there is very small writing saying "this way up". If I mount the manual PCM the way it wants, the connector wont go in, but if I flip it so it reads upside down, it fits.

Anyone else ever come across this?

 

[Tbolt427]

Apparently, Luk makes all these clutches, even the OEM ones. I first had the OEM clutch, then the Centerforce Dual-Friction, then the Luk RepSet. As you can see from my pics, Luk indeed manufactures the Centerforce pressure plate and clutch internals. I'm guessing Centerforce's role is to manufacture the special Dual-Friction surface.

I am not happy with my current RepSet. The clutch pedal feel is way too soft and I am mostly concerned about getting max clamping force (especially considering I'm using 160hp OHV clutch kits with a 210hp SOHC engine, have oversized tires, and I tow). Granted, I just came from the Centerforce, but my '89 Dakota has a much stiffer pedal, and I'm sure the previous owner didn't put a Centerforce in that. In my mind, clutch pedal feel is directly coorelated with clamping force. I've even felt it slip a few times a week after I installed it, which is very concerning.

The Centerforce was a monster, but I don't remember the clutch pedal being very noticeably stiffer than the OEM I first had. So I'm thinking the RepSet is not the exact same as the OEM.
Which gen did you have the Centerforce for?

If you want a Mercedes like clutch pedal, then go with the Luk. If you want clamping force, I was really happy with the Centerforce. If you're in the mood for fabricating, get a Centerforce for a 2003 Ranger (SOHC engine) and drill & tap your single-mass OHV flywheel to accept the SOHC pressure plate bolt pattern. This is what I'm planning on doing when this RepSet gets fried, which I feel like will be very soon.

What did the disc you had with your Centerforce D/F Look like? I have the '03 Ranger. Both sides look alike.
From what I learned about it before I bought it, they should have been different. Also disappointed that they were unable to use the centrifugal weights due to clearance issues. I am still using this clutch. It has proven to be quite durable.

 

[BonesDT]

What did the disc you had with your Centerforce D/F Look like? I have the '03 Ranger. Both sides look alike.
From what I learned about it before I bought it, they should have been different. Also disappointed that they were unable to use the centrifugal weights due to clearance issues. I am still using this clutch. It has proven to be quite durable.

IIRC, I believe both sides of the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch disk looked the same. "Dual" Friction actually means it has HALF the amount of friction area, putting more pressure in certain spots (I never understood the physics of this ... but whatever). Never heard anything about the two sides being different. I bought a Centerforce D.F. kit for my Dakota that I still need to install.

As an update to the passage you quoted, the Luk kit held up just fine over the years, it's still on the truck running strong. My updated conclusion is that the Centerforce is a little bit of a waste of money, but does have minimal performance upgrade.

 

[Tbolt427]

Here is Centerforce's description on their website for this clutch. When I read it before buying, I found the idea interesting, in that the flywheel side allegedly had a more conventional full coverage type disc, while the pressure plate side had the segmented "pucks". I found it a cool enough idea to go ahead and buy it. Imagine my confusion when i received it and it had 2 of the same segmented sides. Not only that, the centrifugal weights were nowhere to be found. I thought they had made a mistake. I ended up calling the number to the company to talk to a rep. He said on our application, the clutch disc that was originally with the kit that they "make" the dual force from was not substantial enough to use for their purposes. Evidently they take a stock or HD LUK unit and modify the disc for their own purposes, paint the pressure plate orange, and tack some money on top of it. I rigged it up in my drill press and pulled the handle with a spring scale to get an idea of the difference in pedal pressure. They were the same, which I know doesn't absolutely prove that the clamping force is alike, but I'm thinking it is. Like you say, the up in pressure comes from the puck side having less surface area (and like you, I am not sure on the physics involved) I could have stated your review exactly from my experience:

1. 
   "My updated conclusion is that the Centerforce is a little bit of a waste of money, but does have minimal performance upgrade."
   
   The guy was kind of surprised that I was asking all these questions. He even said "nobody has ever called to ask anything like this". Before I had bought or installed the centerforce unit, I bought some kind of kit with a LUK pressure plate. It looked exactly like the one from Centerforce. That was The clutch disc did look a bit rinky-dink, which led me to not using that kit at all. The friction area was much narrower than both the flywheel faced area and the pressure plate. It just looked like it lacked the capacity of even the stock clutch coming out of the truck. I will see if I have pictures to post so you can see the difference. The whole process led me to think that they just didn't have the correct full facing for the one side of the disc, and used the puck type on both sides just to be able to sell the unit for our applications. Oh, and you don't need to bother watching the "movie" on Centerforce's site. When they are describing the disc, they are showing 2 sides of the pressure plate.
   

 

[BonesDT]

I just checked the Centerforce DF clutch disc I got for my 89 Dakota. It has segmented pucks on both sides of the disc. I understood this was normal for all applications. The pressure plate is installed, so I couldn't check it quickly, but I understood the weights were application specific if there was enough room to accommodate them.

 

[BonesDT]

BM1354M transfer case (with full shifter assembly) is still for sale as well as the APC clear tail lights. Email me at bonesdt@gmail.com if you are interested.

 

[sandrat84]

I have a 98 explorer with a 5r55e and a manual 1354, I'm 5speed swapping it. I have someone programming the auto trans out of it. So this means I should only have to wire up the nss and reverse lights correct? I'm confused in all my reading how those 2 are supposed to be wired up. Im using the manual trans wiring. Once I reprogram the comp and wire in the nss and reverse lights i should be good to go, right?

 

[sandrat84]

Any one?

 

[gmanpaint]

The engine harness needs repinned for the manual harness.

You can bypass nss, but you will be able to start it in any gear.

Your going need an engine harness for your year, or pcm pinout to find the proper circuits.

 

[PorterD224]

So I did the swap on my 97 Explorer 4x4 with the ohv engine and did the electrical things to trick it but the check engine light wont go away its a code for the range sensor (PRNDL) has anybody else had this issue and how did you fix it thanks