List of Useful Threads Everything I know about the M5OD-R1 & BW1354M

[Varsity]

The electric version of the BW1354 is likely the same length as the manual BW1354 (1" shorter than the auto electric BW4405); so if you originally have the 4405, then your going to run into the driveshaft problem when swapping in a 1354, be it manual or electric.

Don't be discouraged. The spacer should be fine and DIY bolt in.

Honestly though, the 1354 made my Ex a lot less streatable, which is bad cause it's my daily driver. So unless you need the durability for off-roading or you just have to have the extra stick shifter (like me), stick with the auto t-case, much nicer for rainy/snowy highway driving and tight turns.

Good points, however I think I am gonna try my luck at grabbing the transmission and transfer case from a '99 or '00 Sport and tossing it in. The reason I was considering the manual is because everyone said it would be sooo much easier and that I would have the plate under the carpet anyways. But from reading through the tons of threads, its sounding like I would have to go on a scavenger hunt to find these parts and I really don't think a manual would offer enough for me to go through it. The electronics don't scare me, part compatibility does.

My Ex is my daily driver as well so I can't really afford much downtime or surprises or issues. Its my work/school/maybe some fun vehicle so an auto t-case may be the best bet anyways. I'll work on modifying it to get a true 2wd mode, but in the meantime, I'll just enjoy 4wd.

Awesome thread though like others said. There's an incredible amount of help and information here.

 

[BonesDT]

Good points, however I think I am gonna try my luck at grabbing the transmission and transfer case from a '99 or '00 Sport and tossing.

I'm a little confused what you're trying to do. I'm assuming you currently have an auto transmission with an electric transfer case with an automatic option (4405). Are you trying to go manual transmission manual t-case or both?

If all you want is a strict 2wd option on the 4405, the Brown Wire Mod will work wonders.

My BW4405 t-case with computer is up for sale but I'll need some time removing the computer.

 

[Varsity]

No I'm currently 2WD planning to do a 4WD swap. There's a couple of threads on easy 4WD swap with electronic 4WD but every time I dig deeper or ask questions, I usually end up getting pointed to a manual 1354 swap even though that's not what I am going for. However I started looking into the manual swap and found this thread which has had a goldmine of information on 1354 t-cases.

 

[Carguy3J]

I have a '93 Ranger 4.0L-OHV, 4x4 (1354 manual), and a M5ROD-1 (or 2?). The trans may be on its way out. Its getting hard to shift and making funny noises. Some of it maybe the slave cylinder going bad again, after only a year and a half. But, the trans isn't in great shape either. 3rd gear has been "iffy" since I bought the truck. The syncros are worn, and it takes either a very slow shift, or a double clutch to use 3rd gear. Usually just skip 2nd to 4th, but sometimes you need 3rd. It has had its fair share of grinding.

I use the truck as both a semi-daily driver, and to haul scrap metal. It gets used hard and loaded heavy. Most of my shifts are 3,000 rpm or more.

Is the "HD" trans REALLY that much stronger/better, or is it just a case of assuming it is, because, "Hey Ford changed it so there must be a reason"?

Does anyone have any hard objective evidence that the later HD is better/stronger (ie, actual torque ratings R1 vs HD, etc..), and WHY/HOW is it stronger/better? For instance, R1 has flimsy cardboard widget a, b, or c, vs HD has a super strength un-obtanium gold plated widget a, b, or c, and its better for reason x, y, and/or z. Or, R1 will break this way, and HD will not break that way because x,y,z... In other words, someone be the uber knowledgable "HD" trans salesman, with an engineering / transmission background and sell me on using this HD trans.

I'm just trying to determine if it is worth paying extra for a used later HD, and having to deal with the shifter issue, as well as having to fabricate that bracket to mount the t-case shifter, VS just replacing it with another R1 that will just bolt-in (or maybe a re-built?)

Also, what about the m5od-R4? I know they are totally different internally, but will they bolt up to the OHV, and the 1354 t-case? Anybody know of any issues swapping into a '93

 

[BonesDT]

You should have a M5OD-R1 in your Ranger.

As far as the differences with the M5OD-R1HD, I have no idea. All I know is that 1st gear is apparently a lower ratio than the non-HD R1 and all the other gears are the same. This could simply be the only difference making it "Heavy Duty". It's possible certain components may be beefed up, but I have no idea one way or the other. All I know is that Ford ONLY used the R1HD when it started mating it to the stronger 210hp 4.0L SOHC, so one should use caution when mating a non-HD R1 to a SOHC, since Ford never did that from the factory. Externally, the 2 trannys are identical.

If you want to upgrade even more, then the next logical option would be the M5OD-R2 (a.k.a. M5R2). I know very little about the R2. What I know is that it is Ford's manual transmission of choice for the 5.0L V8 and I THINK the R2 bellhousing should bolt right up to the 4.0L V6 engine no problem. You would only have to make a slight modification to your transmission crossmember (I think a member did a write up and it involved cutting the crossmember's center out, flipping it over, then re-welding it back in). I've been considering this upgrade for myself as an interim step before I'm ready for a V8 swap.

Then there is the ZF S5-47, which was Ford's manual trans of choice for the 5.8L Windsor & diesels.

I know nothing about the R4. Didn't even know it existed.

 

[Carguy3J]

You should have a M5OD-R1 in your Ranger.

As far as the differences with the M5OD-R1HD, I have no idea. All I know is that 1st gear is apparently a lower ratio than the non-HD R1 and all the other gears are the same. This could simply be the only difference making it "Heavy Duty". It's possible certain components may be beefed up, but I have no idea one way or the other. All I know is that Ford ONLY used the R1HD when it started mating it to the stronger 210hp 4.0L SOHC, so one should use caution when mating a non-HD R1 to a SOHC, since Ford never did that from the factory. Externally, the 2 trannys are identical.

If you want to upgrade even more, then the next logical option would be the M5OD-R2 (a.k.a. M5R2). I know very little about the R2. What I know is that it is Ford's manual transmission of choice for the 5.0L V8 and I THINK the R2 bellhousing should bolt right up to the 4.0L V6 engine no problem. You would only have to make a slight modification to your transmission crossmember (I think a member did a write up and it involved cutting the crossmember's center out, flipping it over, then re-welding it back in). I've been considering this upgrade for myself as an interim step before I'm ready for a V8 swap.

Then there is the ZF S5-47, which was Ford's manual trans of choice for the 5.8L Windsor & diesels.

I know nothing about the R4. Didn't even know it existed.

Thanks for the reply. However, basically everything you said seems to contradict what other info I have been able to find. I did more digging, after posting this question, and I found more info. From what I found the HD has the same RATIOS as the R1, but "different" 1st and 2nd gears (material/tooth design?) as well as better syncros. Other then the issue with no boss on the extension housing, for my the manual 1354 t-case shifter, it would appear to be a direct bolt in. This much I have been able to gather. I was just hoping to find some more "technical" info on the actual value of the HD "improvements". The earlier R1 had different 1st-2nd-3rd ratios when put behind the 2.3L 4cyl. They had numerically higher (typically called "lower" gearing) to accommodate the higher rpm operating range of a 4cyl, as well as to provide a little extra bottom to mid range torque.

The "R2" is totally different. From what I was told by Rockland Standard Gear, it is physically much larger then the R1 in the Ranger. This would make sense since the R2 was used in full-size trucks. Further, the R2 was intended for use behind V8's. I am pretty sure it would not mate up to the 4.0L V6, nor would the 1354 T-Case bolt to it as it was meant for use with the full-size truck t-cases.

The "R4". from what I have found, is a 2yr (2002 and 2003 Explorer XLS) only limited production oddball.Internally, the geartrain is totally different. The actual order of the gears inside, from front to back, are the opposite of the R1 and HD. It would probably bolt to the bellhousing of either an OHV or SOHC 4.0L, but I have no idea about t-case attachment. Further, the shift tower is positioned much further rearward, then either the R1 or HD. It would put the stick somewhere around the cab/bed gap, if used in an early Ranger. I found a BRAND NEW takeout on ebay, for $300. Then I found out why........

 

[gmanpaint]

Gear ratios
Gear: M5OD-R1 M5OD-R1HD M5R4
1st... 3.72.......3.40........... 3.37
2nd... 2.20.......2.05........... 2.04
3rd... 1.50........1.31.......... 1.30
4th... 1.00........1.00.......... 1.00
5th... 0.79....... 0.79.......... 0.78
Reverse 3.40.... 3.40.......... 3.40

 

[Carguy3J]

Gear ratios
Gear: M5OD-R1 M5OD-R1HD M5R4
1st... 3.72.......3.40........... 3.37
2nd... 2.20.......2.05........... 2.04
3rd... 1.50........1.31.......... 1.30
4th... 1.00........1.00.......... 1.00
5th... 0.79....... 0.79.......... 0.78
Reverse 3.40.... 3.40.......... 3.40

The ratios you quoted, for the M5od-R1, above, are for 2.3L and 3.0L engines.
The M5OD-R1, when mated to a 4.0L, has the same ratios as the M5OD-R1HD

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/ManualTransmission.shtml

Mazda M50D-R1 M
1988 & Up 4-Cylinder Rangers
1988-1992 2.9L 2WD Rangers
1991-2000 4.0L Ranger
1991 - Up 3.0L Ranger
5-Speed
3.40 / 2.05 / 1.31 / 1.00 / 0.79 / Reverse = 3.40(4.0L Engines)
3.72 / 2.20 / 1.50 / 1.00 / 0.79 / Reverse = 3.40 (All Other Engines)

Mazda M50D-R1HD J
2001 & Up 4.0L SOHC Ranger
5-Speed 3.40 / 2.05 / 1.31 / 1.00 / 0.79

 

[gmanpaint]

I stand corrected Carguy3J. Thanks.

So now you have done all that research, are you going to purchase that R1-HD?

 

[Carguy3J]

I stand corrected Carguy3J. Thanks.

So now you have done all that research, are you going to purchase that R1-HD?

I'm considering it. I found a supposedly new take out, for $575. I'm thinking I can get it for $500 cash. I don't think I can get my current trans rebuilt for that, and it would still have many "old" parts in it.

To the rebuilding industry, things like gears only get replaced if they are bad. To me, a rebuild means everything but the case better be brand spanking new, as everything but the case is a wear item. They think I'm nuts. I see no reason to spend that kind of money and be mixing new and 20yr old moving parts.

My current trans is on borrowed time. Its just a question of how much time I can squeeze out of it vs getting stuck somewhere.

I'm also sort of wondering if I should just give up on the truck all together. Besides the trans, it will need heads soon. It has a bad exhaust manifold gasket, but removing the manifold bolts will ended leading to replacing the heads (one head is already missing a "chunk" from a prior manifold repair/snapped bolt). That in turn will lead to wanting to recondition the valvetrain, etc... I have very limited funds. I'm thinking that the big chunk of money this truck will need soon, could go a long way to getting my '80 Chevy k20 back on the road, with nearly 3 times the cargo capacity. Decisions, decisions...... I rely on the truck to make a living, so I need to do something soon, one way or the other.

 

[gmanpaint]

Keep your eyes out on a rolled rig. Swap the drive train. Cheapest way I know. I have done it for less than $500 total in the past.

 

[Kevery]

I just read this whole thread and it's awesome. I Have a 99 ranger I am in the middle of doing a manual swap in (5r55e to 5mod-r1). The biggest hurdle it looks like I am going to have is the wiring and the bleeding of the slave cylinder.

My question to you is: I have Everything out of a 99 ranger with a manual. I even have the PCM/ECU/whatever. This should make my wiring lots easier right? Keep in mind that my ranger is not a DD(still street legal though) its a toy. The way I see it is all I need to do is plug in the new ECU, jump the neutral safety switch and figure out the reverse lights. Am I right or am I even close? Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[gmanpaint]

Should be simple using same year swap parts. Use the manual Trans harness and everything should swap out great. Put both Trans harness side by side and look at each connector. Look for any differences in them. Change up what you need if you have to by moving the pins around. More than likely, you shouldn't have to, but best to be on the safe side. Don't forget the starter, and engine plate.

 

[Kevery]

That's the answer I was looking for!! I do need to get a new starter and I think I already have the engine plate. On the 5r55e I have 3 plug. One is to the neutral safety switch but what is the 2 wire plug on top of the tranny and the one mounted to the pan? I r confused.

 

[Carguy3J]

That's the answer I was looking for!! I do need to get a new starter and I think I already have the engine plate. On the 5r55e I have 3 plug. One is to the neutral safety switch but what is the 2 wire plug on top of the tranny and the one mounted to the pan? I r confused.

I'm just guessing, but the one on top is probably the reverse light switch, which activates your backup lights when you're in reverse.

The one in the pan MIGHT be either a low fluid sensor, or a fluid temp sensor. Either would make sense, and neither would be applicable to a manual trans.


Edit: I don't think the auto trans has a "reverse light switch" per-se. It should have a "range sensor" which tells the computer what gear the trans is in, or at least what gear the shifter has been put in.

 

[Kevery]

The plug that is mounted to the pan is a big square plug with 10 or so wires. I think the reverse lights are wired into the neutral safety switch. I'm guessing I don't need neither and that the manual harness won't have them (hoping anyways). Thanks again for the help.

 

[gmanpaint]

Auto & manual harness are different. That big square connector on the auto pan is not on the manual Trans or harness. Don't worry about it.

The sensor on the top is for neutral safety on one side, and reverse lights on the other. Now some manual Trans don't have the neutral safety sensor and I don't know why. I had that same issue with my swap. Look up my thread "Going full manual" and you will see the discussion about it. That thread is for a 2nd gen manual swap.

 

[Kevery]

Auto & manual harness are different. That big square connector on the auto pan is not on the manual Trans or harness. Don't worry about it.

The sensor on the top is for neutral safety on one side, and reverse lights on the other. Now some manual Trans don't have the neutral safety sensor and I don't know why. I had that same issue with my swap. Look up my thread "Going full manual" and you will see the discussion about it. That thread is for a 2nd gen manual swap.

Thats good news. I'll take a look at the harness today when I get to the shop. Where does the harness run to from the trany? another plug? or am I going to have to do some splicing. Kind of a silly question. I haven't been under the truck to look yet so I thought I would ask. I couldn't find your "going full manual" biuld thread. Thank again guys.

 

[Kevery]

I answered my own question. Yes I do need to do some splicing. I'm looking over my pile of parts and it looks to me that I didn't get the Manual Harness anyways. I did get the ECU though.

 

[Kevery]

Even though I didn't get a manual harness but I did get the ecu. Do you think I will have to do any CRAZY wiring beside jumping the NSS on the existing harness? I installed the manual ecu hoping I don't. I really don't want to have to save silenoids and solder resistors.