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Solved Everything you wanted to know about PATS.

CoalHeat

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Yes, I believe you are correct.
 
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BobWiersema

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Take a look at FORScan for free OBD software. I'm 99% sure it can do this but you may have to ask for a licence key. (Also free)
The software is free buy you'll need an adapter. Should be able to get that for under ten bucks.

Link to ForScan FORScan Home

This page explains the software key. You only need the key for a few PATS related things. They basically don't want you using it to steal cars.
Standard and Extended licenses for Windows - FORScan forum
 

CoalHeat

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That looks interesting, thank you. I will have to read further after work.
I did contact a certain company in Florida that touts their ability to repair/reprogram/supply every kind of electronic module ever installed in an vehicle, my intention was to ask if I can ship them the PATS module and the PCM for analysis/repair/replacement, but the guy never even let me finish explaining the issue, wanted me to call back when I knew exactly what part I wanted, said if they start answering questions then the calls start stacking up" and then basically hung up on me. So much for that! I would have shipped them the units and probably spent money there, had the PCM updated, etc.
 

CoalHeat

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I have to find out if there is a version for iPad, since I don't have a laptop, plus an adaptor for the diagnostic connecter that plugs into the Lightning connector on the iPad, or even better a Bluetooth adaptor. A year and a half ago I pulled the engine and replaced the entire timing gear/chain/guide system. To be honest that was almost easy compared to the aggravation this is causing!
Thanks for all your help, Bob. I'll let you know how it goes when I investigate your links.
 

BobWiersema

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I would try and reinitialize the PATS module to the ECU before spending any money on anything. Software and adapter is a 10 dollar investment.
Looks like it's not to complicated.


 
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CoalHeat

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You are correct. I was getting frustrated.
 

CoalHeat

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Looks like a WiFi adaptor is required for Apple devices. I saw the info on the Standard and Extended user agreements for Windows, I don't see anything for Apple OS. I need to find out first if there is a similar arrangement to get the extended license for the OS version I would think. FORScan is available in the Apple store for $4.95.
 

BobWiersema

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I think you are going to need a Windows based pc or laptop. (Used ones are dirt cheap on ebay)
Looks like apple and android won't do complicated reset or write functions.

ELM327-compatible adapters - how to choose - FORScan forum


4. Recommendations

Table 4.1 - recommendations on adapters
NO - not recommended for this platform
D - recommended for diagnostic: read PID, read/reset DTC, simple service functions
C - recommended for configuration: write configuration parameters to modules, complex service functions
P - recommended for programmign: complex configuration, firmware update (only for CAN )

Adapter FORScan for Windows FORScan Lite for iOS FORScan Lite for Android
ELM327 OHP HS/MS WiFi (clone) NO D NO
Kiwi 3 NO D (if MS-CAN is not required) NO
ELM327 HS/MS USB D, C, P NO NO
OBDLink SX D, C, P (if MS-CAN is not required) NO NO
OBDLink LX D (if MS-CAN is not required) NO D (if MS-CAN is not required)
OBDLink MX BT D, C NO D
OBDLink MX WiFi NO NO NO
ELS27 v3 D, C, P NO D
Viaken STN1170 USB D, C, P NO NO
Viaken STN1170 BT NO NO NO
 

CoalHeat

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That is what I was thinking as well. Worse case is I'd have to buy one as you indicated if I can't find a friend to help.
I'm holding off right now anyway. I found a '98 for sale in North Jersey that runs but the seller says it has transmission "issues". He accepted my offer for it. Once I get it here I will rob the PCM, PATS module, and ignition lock out of it and install everything in my truck. I might have to follow the instructions makuloco has on his youTube channel to clear out the PCM so it can relearn all the drivability parameters, we'll see. At lease I will have a parts truck sitting here. It's the base model, XL, too bad it's not an Eddie Bauer or Limited.
 

CoalHeat

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So here's the story: I let the truck sit there with the battery disconnected for approx 5 days, I was busy doing other things and also bought another Explorer to rob the PCM, PATS module, and keys from. Just out of curiosity I tried to start my truck on Tuesday afternoon. It started right up. It's been starting and running fine since. I'm thinking that sitting with the battery disconnected accomplished the same result that happens with the radio, where it loses all the presets after a few days without power. Maculoco also has a procedure outlined on his YouTube channel for completely clearing out the PCM, I thought that only erased the drivability info, but it might work for the issue I had.
Meanwhile I now have a presentable '98 XL sitting here, it is supposed to have a "bad" transmission. It starts and runs fine, drives fine and goes through all the gears fine too, until it gets up to operating temperature, then the trans starts to slip until it won't move at all. If I let it sit for 10 minutes it will engage and move again. I'll mess around with it at some point, I got it for $500.
 

BobWiersema

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Nice. What engine is in the new one?
 

CoalHeat

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The truck I just bought has the pushrod V6 in it.
My victory was short-lived, it won't start today, which I expected to happen, which is why I didn't take it anywhere far away yesterday.
 

CoalHeat

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The end of the story: The crankshaft sensor was faulty, was showing low voltage. Sometimes the truck would start, sometimes not. It runs better now too.
I have no idea why it was setting the P1260 code. Since last Friday it was been starting and running fine.
I also had a horrific sound that would change frequency with speed changes and come and go, I found the heavy plastic shield on the gas tank that protects the tank if the front u joint on the rear driveshaft flies apart had slipped sideways and was hitting the driveshaft. I noticed it was loose when I dropped the tank to change the fuel pump a few months ago, I should have used some wire and secured it to the tank. Next time I am under the truck for servicing I will secure it permanently, for now I just pushed it back in place.
 

Pr27.11

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Antitheft and Alarm Systems: Description and Operation
ANTI-THEFT
The passive anti-theft system (PATS) uses radio frequency identification technology
to deter a driveaway theft. Passive means that it does not require any activity from
the user.

The PATS uses a specially encoded ignition key. Each encoded ignition key contains a
permanently installed electronic device called a transponder. Each transponder
contains a unique electronic identification code, with over 72 million billion
combinations.

Each encoded ignition key must be programmed into the vehicle powertrain control
module (PCM) before it can be used to start the engine. There are special diagnostic
procedures that must be carried out if new encoded ignition keys are to be
configured.

The encoded key is larger than a traditional ignition key. The key does not require
batteries and should last the life of the vehicle.

The transceiver module communicates with the encoded ignition key. This module is
located behind the steering column shroud and contains an antenna connected to a
small electronic module. During each vehicle start sequence, the transceiver module
reads the encoded ignition key identification code and sends the data to the PCM.
The control functions are contained in the PCM. This module carries out all of the
PATS functions such as receiving the identification code from the encoded ignition
key and controlling engine enable. The PCM initiates the key interrogation sequence
when the vehicle ignition switch is turned to ON or START.

The PATS function uses the PCM to enable or disable the engine. All elements of PATS
must be functional before the engine is allowed to start. If any of the components
are not working correctly, the vehicle will not start.

PATS uses a visual theft indicator located on top of the instrument panel. This
indicator will prove out for three seconds when the ignition switch is turned to ON
or START under normal operation. If there is a PATS problem, this indicator will
either flash rapidly or glow steadily (for more than three seconds) when the ignition
switch is turned to ON or START. PATS also "flashes" the theft indicator every two
seconds at ignition OFF to act as a visual theft deterrent.

The PATS is not compatible with aftermarket remote start systems, which allow the
vehicle to be started from outside the vehicle. These systems may reduce the vehicle
security level, and also may cause no-start issues. Remote start systems must be
removed before investigation of PATS-related no-start issues.

The PATs key is used on the following Ford family trucks and suvs:

FORD: 1996-2001 MUSTANG, TAURUS
1998-2000 CONTOUR
1998-2001 CROWN VICTORIA
2000-2001 FOCUS
2002 THUNDERBIRD
1997-2001 EXPEDITION
1998-2002 EXPLORER
1999 F-250 LD
1999-2001 F-150, RANGER, WINDSTAR
2000-2001 EXCURSION
2001 ESCAPE
LINCOLN: 1997-1998 MARK VIII
1998-2001 CONTINENTAL, TOWN CAR
2000-2001 LS
1998-2001 NAVIGATOR
2002 BLACKWOOD
MERCURY: 1996-2001 SABLE
1998-2000 MYSTIQUE
1998-2001 GRAND MARQUIS
1999-2001 COUGAR
1998-2002 MOUNTAINEER

Additionally, PATs can be found on the follow Ford family cars and mini-vans:

1998-up Contour
1997-up Crown Victoria
1999-up Escort
2000-up Focus
1996-up Mustang and Taurus
1998-up Windstar
1998-up 2000-up Lincoln LS
1998-up Lincoln Mark VIII, Lincoln Continental and Lincoln Town Car
1997-up Mercury Grand Marquis
1998-up Mercury Mystique
1996-up Mercury Sable

Following are the instructions for programming a blank key (you must have at least one working key for this procedure).

The PAT

1. Make sure you have both keys.
2. Turn on car but don't start. Watch "theft" indicator untils it goes out.
3. Turn off and repeat procedure with second key.
4. After "theft light goes out, insert new key and turn on.
5. Wait until the theft indicator goes off and then turn off switch.
6. Wait thirty seconds. New key is now programmed into security module. Repeat for any other keys.


1. Erase any old codes by entering the factory code.(buttons will light up)
2. Press 1/2 button within 5 seconds.
3. Press 7/8 and 9/0 buttons at the same time within 5 seconds.

To set new code:

1. Enter factory code (numbers will light up)
2. Press 1/2 button within 5 seconds.
3. Enter personal 5 digit code(decide beforehand) within 5 seconds of each previous one.
To unlock all the doors,press the 3/4 button within 5 seconds of the driver door unlocking.
To lock all doors and set alarm system,press 7/8 and 9/0 at the same time.
To disarm or reset a triggered alarm,just enter personal or factory code.

Do not set a code with five of the same consecutive numbers. It's too easy for thieves to figure out.

Deactivating and Activating Autolock

To deactivate the "autolock":
With all doors and tailgate closed but NOT locked,and ignition OFF.
1. Enter 5 digit code
2. While holding 7/8 button in, press and release the 3/4 button.
3. Release 7/8 button
The horn will chirp once if the "autolock" was deactivated
or two times if "autolock" was activated.

To reactivate the system,repeat steps 1 thru 3

Alternate Method To Deactivate And Activate Autolock

Do steps [1] through [5] (below) within 30 seconds or you'll have to do it over. If you have to do it over, wait 30 seconds between attempts.
Close all doors securely.

1.Turn the ignition key to ON.

2.Press the power door UNLOCK control THREE times.

3.Turn the ignition key from ON to OFF.

4.Press the power door UNLOCK control THREE times.

5.Turn the ignition key back to ON .The doors should lock and unlock.

6.Press the power door UNLOCK control. The horn should chirp ONCE to confirm successful switching of the autolock system

Troubleshooting:

The engine does not start and LED remains off.
1. Check PATS system fuses
2. If alarm is fitted check if LED functions for alarm: if not check cigar lighter fuse (also used for LED)
3. If not go to main dealer

Engine does not start: LED flashes rapidly Leave ignition on until the LED starts to flash a 2 digit code: (sequence- pause-sequence)
Check the following codes:
Code flashes:
1:3 Key code not received. Is key screened by other keys or objects? Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty. If not go to main dealer
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key. If not go to main dealer
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS. Program key as above using master
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV Go to dealer .
For more information and troubleshooting tips:
PATS-Troubleshooting-DIAGNOSTIC-Service-Tips and:
Programming Ford-PATS
Crank no start has code p1000 and p1260
Tried 2 original keys that worked for years through Monday ...Tuesday crank no start issue. My theft light is acting normal condition slow blink unarmed insert get turn on lights for 3 seconds goes out.
 

Tifoez & Lavinia

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Does anyone have a list of the differences between the PATS B & PATS E, the wiring diagrams for both, and any other information regarding them both??
 

jjkusaf

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Driving down the interstate the engine cut off. After pulling off to the should I tried to crank it ... the engine would turn over but not fire which is when I noticed the "Theft" blinking rapidly. I tried a couple of suggestions I found on the internet but nothing worked...and I read through this entire thread today.

I had the Explorer towed to my house. I tried my original spare key but same issue. Popping the hood there was heavy corrosion around the POS battery terminal. I went ahead and replaced the battery (bought a new one a few months ago thinking the old battery wouldn't last through winter). I will clean the terminal today with baking soda when I get home from work.

While I have the hood popped, cleaning the terminal, should I be looking for anything else before attempting to crank?

Would a fault in the PATS kill the engine going down the interstate or is that entirely coincidental to a much larger problem? I've never had issues with the PATS before (I've only had to replace the fuel pump and IAC valve...otherwise been very reliable).
 
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Shannon Nutter

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so I can get an 97 and mount to my truck without any fuel line/pressure issues and may possibly bypass the whole pats system?


I have been having issues with my pats as well. Have poured money into new jgnition and keys, locksmith, having it reprogrammed, and even have tried to shut it off. It still is causing me problems. Ive been following this thread and am considering trying the pcm swap from a older donor to my 2000 Ford Ranger Xlt 3.0L 4x4, w/ 5 spd manual. My question is would a '97 work to switch out, or if not, which one would? I have a few donors that are pre-'98 already at my disposal. I just want to make sure which one would be a good fit, s o i can eliminate pats altogether and have a running truck again.
Sounds like a winner!

It sounds like I won't want the fuel system on a 99 unless I convert it over. What years explorer/mountaineer would I want to look at using? 96,97? to 98?
 

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