Aliceinchainsaw
Member
- Joined
- October 20, 2018
- Messages
- 42
- Reaction score
- 10
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2001 Ford Explorer XLS
@Aliceinchainsaw working with your original diff:
1. Remove the diff cover and drain the oil out. Also see if you can remove the fill plug
2. Using a tight-fitting box wrench or socket carefully remove the cross pin lock bolt (8MM?)
3. Remove the cross pin (don't be concerned if the 2 small spider gears walk out). Usually the cross pin will just slide out once the lock bolt is removed, sometimes a little persuasion is needed
4. Push the axles into the diff, which is easily done once the cross pin is removed
5. Using a magnet, remove the "C" clips from the ends of the axles
6. Once the "C" clips are removed the axles can be easily pulled out
7. Using a seal puller (a large screwdriver can also work) remove the axle seals
8. Using a Ford axle bearing removal attachment on a slide hammer, remove the old bearings
9. Clean out the ends of the axle tubes with parts cleaner and lubricate with fresh gear oil
10. Install the new bearings using a bearing/seal installer tool and large hammer. You'll be able to hear and feel when they're fully seated.
11. Pack the backs of the new axle seals with grease and Install the new axle seals
12. Clean & lube the part of the axles where they will ride on the seals and reinstall the axles (do your best not to drag the axles across your new axle seals)
13. Replace the axle "C" clips and pull the axles outward to seat the "C" clips in the side gears
14. Reinstall the spider gears and cross pin using a new cross pin lock bolt and thread locker (I use Loctite red/permanent thread locker on the lock bolt, which requires heat to remove in the future, but I suppose blue thread locker would also work).
15. Clean any old sealant from the diff cover and its mating surface using a scraper and parts cleaner.
16. Apply a decent amount of Permatex Ultra Black RTV to the diff cover (no gasket is needed) and attach to the diff screwing in the bolts only finger tight. After several hours you can tighten the cover bolts all the way.
17. Wait 24 hours for the sealant on the cover to fully cure before adding oil
18. Refill the diff with 3 quarts of hypoid gear oil (synthetic gear oil is recommended but expensive. 80W140 conventional hypoid gear oil can be used and is 1/3rd the price of the synthetic. On a diff with 260K on it, I'd use the less expensive conventional oil.
I recommend Timken brand (or National) but here's an example of a axle bearing and seal set on eBay:
Rear Wheel Bearing&Seal Assembly for 83-05 Ford E-150 F-150 Ranger 8.8"Ring Gear | eBay
Note: Replacing the pinion seal (should you decide to do this) is more easily done with the diff fully reinstalled in the vehicle, because you'll need to have a way to prevent the wheels from turning while you remove/reinstall the pinion nut. If you pinion seal isn't leaking currently, you may want to skip this step for now. You can always do it later. You can chose to replace the crush sleeve, but this makes the job much harder and there is a cheat for this. Again, with a diff with 260,000 miles on it you may want to save a few bucks where you can.
Some videos on the job can be found at the link below:
video on replacing ford 8.8 axle bearings - Google Search
Super clear, thank you.
Gathering a few items and cleaning up my work area to start into this tomorrow night.