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Explorer weight loss program

There is also a dampener on the rear axle or t-case usually. That's a few lbs there
 



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Don't stop at seat belts. Remove the back seats entirely. I never missed them.
 






Pre 98

Pre 98 they didnt come with steel skid plates on transfer or gas tanks..get ride of them, your be fine ;)
fyi they sell for good money on here for people that dont have them and do 4x4 ;)

I remember reading something about this, where did you find that information?
I wonder if the tank was different?

If the EE hood is not lighter then that is another reason to just keep my stock one.

Damn I have to stop posting, all that buckshot and epoxy is weighing my truck down. lol. You guys are funny.

Remember I have to go through state inspection, I remove all my gauges so it looks stock inside. I wonder how much the rear seats weigh, I could always put them back in for state inspection so it looks normal. The other things is the area under the back seats looks kind of unfinished with the seats out. I would have to do something about that. Then again I am trying to go with things that are not to noticeable.

I have not seen any damper, I will look for it tonight though to see if it is there. Maybe I just didn't see it cause I was not looking for it.

Plastic wind deflector, I wonder if that really does anything for me now with my electric fan and other modifications, I will look at that some more. Kudo's to VroomZoomBoom for finding something at the front of the truck I might be able to remove. I have to have the ebrake for inspection, that sucks.

What did this mean? "what about the one for light and the wires for it" Vroomzoomboom?

I am keeping the power windows and locks. I am keeping the AC. The roof rack sliding bars are gone but the ones that bolt to the roof itself are still there, if I remove them wouldn't water leak in?
Floor mats are functional so they are staying for now. Passenger seat is staying too, I can not imagine getting pulled over and a cop asking me where the passenger seat is.lol.
 






I remember reading something about this, where did you find that information?
I wonder if the tank was different?

If the EE hood is not lighter then that is another reason to just keep my stock one.


I have not seen any damper, I will look for it tonight though to see if it is there. Maybe I just didn't see it cause I was not looking for it.


Passenger seat is staying too, I can not imagine getting pulled over and a cop asking me where the passenger seat is.lol.

[MENTION=12558]boominXplorer[/MENTION] would be the guy.im pretty sure he can tell you all the differences and even the weight. .

Dont quote me on hood, just think I remember seeing that when I was debating on getting it..same with plain fiberglass fenders, non-bulge

I was just suggesting removing the seats at the track..unless you roll solo to the track and dont have a spot or friends to watch them..maybe just remove the rear before you leave to go to track? Chris or boominX could probably tell you how much they weighed also..lol
 






the small wire harness that goes from the fog light to the frame. the plug is right beside the front wheel abs sensor plug. once again, it might only be a pound if that, but every little bit counts.
another thing that came to mind, and might not be noticeable, and may also help get hot air out from under the hood is the plastic skirts that clip into the splash shields in the front fenders.
as for the skid plate for the transfer case, since i put the 4406 in my truck, it has never gone back in.
dose a plastic diff cover weight more then a metal one as well? you could always put one of those on. another thing i thought of, but i am not sure if it would be a good idea is swap the 3 core rad for a 2 core from one of the older OHV trucks. i cant remember if you have it under the hood still or not but the insulation under the hood can also go.
 






weight reduction

Oh that wire harness for the fog lights. I was thinking of putting HID's in place of the little dinky bulb in my projector head lights. If they were bright enough I could get rid of the hole fog light system. There are plastic covers that fill the holes for explorers with out fogs.

Good call on the plastic wheel well covers, one was already missing so I ditched the other when doing the ARP head studs. My thought was to get some hot air out from under the hood like you stated. With the timing so far retarded like it was before the water meth, I was heating the exhaust valves and the headers were giving off some serious heat too. I am surprised I did not burn a valve.

Thanks for the confirmation on no problems with the t-case shield removed, it is going tonight. lol.

Plastic diff cover? from what year and model?

If the radiator springs a leak that would be a good reason for me to get a lighter one. I have a 160 thermostat so it runs cool most of the time. With the AC and the 80 degree temps in the summer when I drive 60 miles to race it might have trouble with the two core. Don't know for sure.

The hood insulation is gone from my stock hood, for clearance reasons with the supercharger pulley from back when I put the M90 on. Now with the GT500 supercharger I think it has more room but would not put it back on any way.
 






If you have a long center console, swap it for the short XL one.
The long one weighs so much.
 






The dampener will either bolt to the back of the t-case or the front side of the rear differential. It might not have been there from the factory but some models had them.

Ford Rangers and early explorers came with a black plastic diff cover. There is also a company called cleargearz or something the sells clear diff covers. Not much of a gain here for money spent but hey its an option. I would prefer upgrading to an aluminum rear cover with girdle for the bearing caps. T/A is the one to get it seems but that's a whole different topic.

As for removing the rear seats there is nothing wrong with it, people with vans do it all the time
and will pass inspection still or at least here in Virginia

Are you still running a mono leaf in the rear or did you swap to 4dr leafs? I would loose the overload spring or the short stack on the mono leaf.

You can take the tank and transfer skid off, its actually 99 trucks and newer that didn't come with them. It's a steel tank anyway.

Torsion bar skid plates can go also

Have a power drivers seat? They weigh a TON!!! You can easily keep your stock seat and switch out for a manual track.

If you want to get crazy with it you could cut some metal away in the doors behind the trim and put some 2-2.5" holes in the in the steel inner fenders, swap to base model non power mirrors, install a single din radio (if you don't already)

If you have the full length console remove all the guts from the rear blower assembly, it will probably be lighter than a short xl one since the xl one uses a large aluminum bracket
 






Weight loss

Merry Christmas everyone!
Thanks for all the suggestions guys!
 






Rear speakers, or all if you don't use the stereo. I like this thread, I am going to start a project soo with the goal of fast quarter mile times, so I will be following this.
 






Weight reduction

Thanks to BoominXplorer,
We have another 6 lbs gone by removing the torsion bar covers! (and bolts)
 

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Less is more

Transfer case cover gone..... 10lbs.
 

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Out of here

Hopeless rear wiper, gone!
Say goodbye to another 3 lbs.
New total = 92lbs
 

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Rear wiper hole

So what do you do with the rear wiper hole? Stick something in it, that's what holes are for. Found a plastic cap that fit in the rubber piece to keep water out, cheesy but it will do for now. Glued it in with Goop.
Then there was the washer hose coming through the tailgate. Haven't you ever wanted a rear washer squirter to get the guy behind you who is tailgating, you know you thought about it. lol. I found a lighted windshield washer jet and put that in the old hose hole.
 

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Washer nozzle

 












Wheels

I must have gotten mixed up about my wheels/tires actual weight.
I took off the L/F while I was getting ready to adjust the transmission band for second gear / OD. (that band wears first and needs to be maintained).

It weighs in at 51lbs.
So if I can find a wheel combo that I like, with wider tread, and keep the weight close to the same then I can upgrade. I can not go with a much smaller diameter because I am going through the traps (1/4 Mile) kind of close to redline in 4rth. I still have 5th(O/D) but you don't want to shift into overdrive at wot, the band wont take it. I have 5th blocked at WOT in my tune. I have a little RPM left but how much I can not say at this time. Don't want to be bouncing off the rev limiter before the 1/4 mile runs out.
Right now I have the stock tire size of 255 70 16.

I got a beat up aftermarket wheel to test fit a while back. I believe it is an imitation Cobra R wheel. The one I have is a 17X9. It weighs in at a whopping 26lbs. Yikes! I wonder if original ones weigh less. I got this wheel just to test fit since I saw 18psiexplorer's truck. I really like the wheel design and the wide tire look from the back of his truck. I would need a taller tire though. I like the deep dish in the back but could just use the non deep dish ones all the way around to keep then all the same size. The width probably doesn't matter but the diameter does with the automatic 4WD system / transfer case.

I would not be using this rim since it is beat up.
 

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lol

I've often wanted to mount a remote controlled paint ball gun in front to shoot vehicles stealing my time when they run the red light.

I almost wet myself laughing when I read this. lol.
 






Quicker 1/4 mile times

Just to be clear, weight reduction is not the ultimate go fast magic wand.
100 lbs if you are lucky will only net you about .10 in a 1/4 mile.
Results will vary.

When I stated I would beat this years times next year I was mainly thinking about the nitrous. This weight loss thing is just a little helper.

My supercharged truck is getting pulled out of the garage today.
I have to spend some time with my 4 door explorer now, the transmission is giving me problems and it finally stopped raining. I got some new transmission gauges to test out before tearing into it.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=395226&page=2
 



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How?

Does anyone know how to take this apart without breaking it or causing water leaks?

I want to get the sliding things out, they are annoying me just being there. I would remove the whole thing but am afraid of causing water leaks. I don't want to do any body work/bondo either, I suck at stuff like that.
 

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