F150 Coil Seats Install and Shackles for TTB suspension based platforms

[nak4af]

Try a salvage yard form the year truck I listed above. The bolt shouldn't cost that much and is a little longer than the Explorer. The first part of the shaft does not have any threads so using it without the spacers will probably not work since the nut may not thread down all the way. Also, the nut on the F150 bolt is a bit thicher and will give more thread contact and better strength. Not to mention better grip when tightening it with the 1 1/8" socket. My origional nuts were badly stripped to the point where I could barely get them off again.

 

[AchromicSkin]

Does anyone have experience doin this on 2wd? My main concern is getting the proper seat bolts on so I can hold the f150 seat down...so my main question is if anyone can give me a quick run down on what It takes to swap the seat stud bolts.
Thanks!

 

[Maniak]

I can't comment on putting the longer bolt on a 2wd, but I can tell you, that bolt is going to be tight to pull out. Your in Ca, so rust "shouldn"t be too bad, right? Our Az vehicle didn't have rust but it still took a cheater bar to get that bolt out without rupturing something...

~Mark

 

[Tbars4]

...Take and remove your coil spring and seat...

...Set the F150 coil seat over existing bolt and see how much longer it needs to be...Take your old bolt out...Go to a hardware store and get a Grade 8 bolt of the same dimension's but as long as needed and you will probably need another nut so it can be fastened to the beam....

 

[AchromicSkin]

...Take and remove your coil spring and seat...

...Set the F150 coil seat over existing bolt and see how much longer it needs to be...Take your old bolt out...Go to a hardware store and get a Grade 8 bolt of the same dimension's but as long as needed and you will probably need another nut so it can be fastened to the beam....

Sounds like this is the quickest and easiest way...will be attempting this either today or tomorrow...on my way to ford to see if theey have 2 passenger seats before I head to pick-a-part.
And I saw a post about doing the F150 coils also...is that worth doing at the same tine? If so can someone post or pm me a link to It...Im currently on my phone and the search doesn't work right on here...hahha.
Thanks!

 

[cybergasm]

I can't comment on putting the longer bolt on a 2wd, but I can tell you, that bolt is going to be tight to pull out. Your in Ca, so rust "shouldn"t be too bad, right? Our Az vehicle didn't have rust but it still took a cheater bar to get that bolt out without rupturing something...

~Mark

with mine being a Az to Cali transplant I did not have any issues with rust but I hosed down the bolts anyways with PB blaster just to be on the safe side.

And aside from Cheater bars, Cut off End Wrenches and such has anyone come across Extra Deep Deep Sockets?

Tried using the 1 1/8 in deep socket I have but it was just fractional short of being able to get on the bolt to get it out.

So the top ones had to come out via the wrench method.

 

[Tbars4]

...AchromicSkin...I would go to pick a parts and skip the dealer...

...Use the search function here an it will give you results....:biggthump

 

[AchromicSkin]

Ok...so this weekend I've been in process doing the Coil Seats and Coil Springs off a '92 F150...
Problem 1: Stud bolts too short (forewarned by forum members)
Problem 2: Studs off 4x4 Exp dont work on a 4x2...4x2 has 10" Long 3/4" Grade 8 bolt...I need a 12" 3/4" Grade 8 bolt. 4x4 model has a stud and nut on top side of the axle, and bottom side of axle is tapped for a 2" long bolt....so 4x4 hardware DOESN'T work on a 4x2...McFadden Dale Hardware $36.78 2 bolts 2 lock washers and 2 nuts.
Problem 3: Auto Zone isn't expecting the coil spring clamps back until tomorrow..

...so tomorrow...if everything works out, I should have the Coil Seats and Coils on the truck, and ready for an alignment...will be posting pics with more detail on Problem 1 and 2.

 

[nak4af]

 

[BKennedy]

Problem 3: Auto Zone isn't expecting the coil spring clamps back until tomorrow..

I don't see why you would need these coil spring clamps. Can't you just remove the shock on one end and unbolt he coil? There should be enough travel in your arms to remove the coil without the clamps.
I didn't know all that stuff about the 2wd.
Does the bolt go through the arm, or is it tapped like the 4wd?

 

[Maniak]

Another trick to getting the spring in/out is to take off the sway bar and loosen the Radius arm bushing bolt. That will allow the suspension to move more and you will be able to push down on the axle beam (Twin I beam in your case) to get the spring in and out.

~Mark

 

[gmanpaint]

I just removed the sway bar & pushed down on the rotor with my foot a bit. The coils came right out with no fight whatsoever. No need for clamps on a 4x4. 2wd, I dunno.

 

[Tbars4]

...When I originally did my Ranger, the coils were stiff, had all new bushings, and I needed the clamps to actually help get the springs on the coil seats and had access to clamps...That is, I didn't release the RA bolts...

...After several thousand miles on both trucks and having the springs off numerous times, the springs are easier to remove while still not touching the RA bolts...

 

[AchromicSkin]

I don't see why you would need these coil spring clamps. Can't you just remove the shock on one end and unbolt he coil? There should be enough travel in your arms to remove the coil without the clamps.
I didn't know all that stuff about the 2wd.
Does the bolt go through the arm, or is it tapped like the 4wd?

I was able to get my stock Springs out after I undid the top shock nut, but the F150 coils I have are thicker gauge and about 1 1/2" taller...plus the addition of a 2" Coil Seat...I need coil clamps...unless I do drop the radius arm...but I don't have access to air tools at the moment, and 5 mins of pushing with arms and legs and the radius arm nut doesn't move.......Ill just wait till tomorrow and get coil clamps haha

And as far as the bolt, the 4x4 technically has 2 bolts that hold the arms and seats down, on the 4x2 there's one long bolt running through the front arms and coil seat.

 

[Tbars4]

...You are adding 3" plus of front lift???

...You are adding F150 coil springs and F150 coil seats??...Are you installing custom coil buckets or anything else such as axle pivot brackets???

...You can lift your front a max of 2" and still get it to align..Just curious but did you read somewhere that someone added F150 coil springs and F150 coil seats together??

 

[cybergasm]

Knew Ted could'nt stay away from here for very long :

but anyways hopefully Mr. Skin remembered to disconnect the sway bar

 

[AchromicSkin]

Another problem....my stupidity...
The stock bolts are only 8" long...not 10"....sooooo...the 12" bolts I bought are 2" too long...haha...
I took my stock ones into Home Depot, they only had 8" long, so I told myself I needed 10"...then I went to McFadden Dales, and somehow I thought my stock bolt was 10" and I needed 12" .....soooo another trip to McFadden Dales to swap bolts...stupid stupid stupid...haha

Well I haven't read anywhere someone doing the Coil Seats and the Coils...just an experiment of mine to see how it sits...I have a friend that works at a Tire and Alignment shop...so if its too out of whack with the F150 Coils, then Ill take them back off and put my stock coils back on...I'm hoping for not much lift from the F150 Coils. The F150 coils are a little thicker gauge and about 1 1/2" taller, but there aren't as many actual coils on the 150 spring...so hopefully it will compress down a little closer to my coil height, but with a little more stiffness.
As far as the sway bar...mine is completely uninstalled.

If this setup puts me into needing a new steering arm then I will get the one for a 6" lift.

Here is my process is the alignment is way off:
1: F150 coils, and seats, seats are on the corresponding side from F150 to Exp (driver to driver, pass to pass) both seats are same height
2: Swap seats from Driver to Pass side
3: Leave seats swapped, replace stock springs
4: Swap seats back to corresponding sides with stock springs

so thats my order im going in...hopefully I stop at #1! haha

The F150 coils fit into the stock coil buckets of the Exp, so no need in change of those for now...
Getting the F150 seats on here is just a temporary lift for the tires I bought, once $$ comes around again, the front end is getting a nice long travel build A friend or mine builds long travel I beam front ends for a small shop out here, and said $500 and I get any size arms I want ...then the next expensive part is the coil overs...

 

[AchromicSkin]

Heres some pics of the dis-assembly

1: Removed Tire

2: Closeup of the stock coil seat

3: Closeup showing how a 4x2 has a long single bolt

4: Shot of the coil out, and the bolt sticking through with the second nut

Will post more of re-assembly the next couple days...when I can get back to McFadden Dales...which is like 45 mins from me...

 

[BKennedy]

I think with those F-150 coils, its going to ride like crap. They are way too stiff for the Explorer.

 

[AchromicSkin]

I think with those F-150 coils, its going to ride like crap. They are way too stiff for the Explorer.

Im quite used to a stiff suspension...haha
Cars Ive had:
My F350 had 10" lift of leafs front and rear...felt like the body was welded to the suspension
My F250 Diesel had a 2" level kit, so pretty normal ride
Scion tC, full coilovers for mountain runs
Talon, also full coilovers for track and strip

Other cars I drive:
'08 Evo X with full coilovers
'95 RX7 FD, pretty much full race car...haha

and the Exp...i feel like when I take a corner at 10 mph its going to roll over...haha...so Id much rather have a stuff ride and less body roll...thats my goal with the F150 Springs