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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
One of the first posts asked if you tried fresh fuel. I did not read where you answered that question or where you added fresh fuel. After nine months and not adding Sta-Bil (sp.?), the fuel could be old enough and stale enough to not fire. Since your getting run time on the starting fluid, You might try shooting straight gas into the throttle body. If that fires... change the fuel..
Also look for water in the gas, drain some from the schrader into a cup and look for blobs floating in it, sometimes a problem with stored vehicles, or maybe someone dumped something in it...
OK guys. I can't try starting this thing until I get the upper intake back on. I had to remove it to gain access to the injectors and CMP.
I'm still comfused with the check of the CMP harness. The book says I should be getting 1.5volts but I show 12 volts with the meter on the B+ lead and the battery ground. The book is not clear on which leads to contact. I have three. B+/Sig/- Any thoughts.
Once I confirm the status of the CPM I plan to put the upper intake back on and start from again. Although I bet I still will have that 214 code.
Yeh, I was really starting to question the wisdom of dumping raw fuel down the intake.
My problem is I have a full tank of the old gas. I was hoping I could still use it.
While you have the upper intake off,go ahead and pull the fuel rail up with injectors still attached to rail and leave electrical connectors on the injectors.
Disconnect your coil pack so you will have no spark.
Hold the fuel rail and injectors up and get someone to spin the engine over while you watch the actual spray from the injectors.
This will make sure your injectors are actually firing and you will be able to smell the fuel coming out.
Also double check all your engine grounds.I believe they are on the back of the head but they occasionally get moved.
This is assuming that you have decnt compression as well.
Why are you showing 12v everywhere, something is not right. The ECU is a 5v system for all the sensors and controls. Your injectors should be 5v as well, did you check the harness at the ECU to see if you are getting the correct voltages? As another quick check what are you getting at the TPS? should be around .95v with the throttle closed. I'm beginning to think there is a more serious problem here if you sensors are not giving you the proper voltages. Something like the ECU got fried and is feeding un-regulated power to everything. Unless I am totally off here and the older ECU is actually a 12v system but I don't think so...
The injectors should have battery voltage.The ECM supplies pulse width in milliseconds by grounding them.
All sensors are 5 volt reference supplied by ECM (except O2 sensors).
First, thanks to all for your help. I'm sure with your input we will be able to solve this problem.
With fuel pressure, spark, injector voltage, I have decided that I need to both understand and check the CPM. My understanding is that this controls the firing of the injectors (in pairs). As such IMO this would cause a start/no start situation. I initially rejected the impact of this since I had the 214 code while the car ran before the intake gasket change. However with many of your inputs and much reading I need to rule the CPM in or out before I proceed.
The injectors should have battery voltage.The ECM supplies pulse width in milliseconds by grounding them.
All sensors are 5 volt reference supplied by ECM (except O2 sensors).
I was finally able to get the CMP sensor out. Everything looks good on the drive unit. From my understanding when the drive goes bad you can see the mess when you remove the sensor.
At this point I really need to check to see if the sensor is OK.
Anyone have the procedures to check the sensor when it is out of the engine? Also, I have found conflicting information regarding the probability of the CMP causing the no start. Any thoughts on this?
At the end of the day, I think I am going to replace the sensor,(since I still have the top of the intake off), and replace the the intake and wires.
One last thought while this intake top is off. Does anyone think it would pay to take off the rail with the injectors attached to see if they spray? Remember I just got them back from a cleaning before I put them in.
Well this problem has really beaten me down so I appreciate all the help.
I voted against the crank or cam position sensors being your issue because you say it runs on starting fluid
If it runs on starting fluid you are getting spark
this points towards a fuel issue
Fuel issue with your truck =
sat for months
fuel pressure is adequate at start up
You need;
new gas, new filter, possibly new pump
check fuel pressure regulator
I have had two Fords sit for a period of time, one would not start because the fuel pump died while sitting, one ran for two weeks before the fuel pump failed. It was turning on, showed 32# at the rail before starting, and yet it was not suppying enough pressure to keep the engine running.
Also make damn sure you have the fuel lines hooked up properly, on one engine swap we did we had them backwards! truck would not start but showed fuel pressure at the rail
I still suspect weak pump and/or bad fuel
Yes it would be a good idea to see all 6 injectors spray, just be damn careful
Still will not start. At this point I think I have it narrowed to the the injectors or the sensors to fire the injectors. Here is my reasoning.
1. Engine will fire on starter fluid for about 2-5 secs. For this brief time the engine runs smooth.
2. Old gas drained and new gas added.
3. 40 psi at fuel rail.
4. Noid light test was positive. (Although this does stump me why I am not getting fuel into the cylinders)
One last bit of information. The injectors were ultrasonicly cleaned when I was repairing the intake gasket.
Anyone with addtional thoughts. I'm not sure where to check at this point.
If there is fuel pressure and power to the injectors, and no fuel is coming out, then it has to be the injectors... doesn't seem to make much sense that they could all be bad... but maybe they got messed up by the cleaning place :scratch:
