Flywheel shims or spacers??!?!?

[Tat2dExploder]

Ok, I just rebuilt my mazda 5 spd myself. I used the rebuild kit with new synchro's and I also bought a new input and output shaft w/ bearings. Ontop of that I bought the new clutch kit, new master and slave cylinders also had my flywheel cut...
I went to take it for a test drive yesterday day, and it was almost impossible to shift into 1st or 2nd. It was possible but i had to put way too much strength into it.
The guy that cut my flywheel mentioned something about flywheel spacers or shims to make up for what he cut off... personaly i have never heard of these and they don't sound too safe, just wondering what your opinions were b4 i drop the trans and put this "spacer" in.

thnx guys

btw i have bled the clutch a million times, i have a perfect pedal so i'm pretttty sure its not that

 

[RiverRat]

I have heard of people having problems shifting after resurfacing the flywheel. I guess the slave cylinder doesn't travel enough.

Some have tried to shim the slave cylinder too. I have no experience with flywheel spacers. I was having never ending grinding trouble in 1-3 gears with the mazda 5 speed. Ended up dropping in a 4R70W.

 

[TedfromVA]

What is a 4r70w?

Is that a manual transmission that will fit the 4.0 first gen explorer? If so is it 4 or 5 speed? To and answer your question: make sure the the throw out is travelling all the way out. might have to bleed it. If it is i would recomend a shim or maybe a new flywheel.

 

[RiverRat]

The 4R70W is used in the 5.0 explorer. It doesn't bolt up to a 4.0l. It's a 4 speed auto.

 

[410Fortune]

Welcome to the WONDERFUL world of the rebuilt mazda 5 speeds....

I had my clutch out 4 times in one year trying to fix exactly what you describe

YES you should have installed a small spacer behind the flywheel, since he cut material off, it needs to move that much closer to the slave cylinder

Before you do anything make sure it is bled!
First you have to bleed the hydro line to the pressure fitting, then you put the pressure fitting into the slave cylinder, then bleed the slave.

Air gets trapped in the hydro line where it goes under/over the frame.

Also you might consider putting a couple washers behind the slave cylinder, the bolts that hold it to the bellhousing can use a couple washers to space the slave cylinder out slightly. This will help to make sure the driven disc gets completely dis-engadged from the flywheel when the pedal is pushed to the floor.

The slave cylinder is a very crappy design. Any thickness removed from the flywheel = problems, because the clutch is not going to fully dis-engage

 

[Bored_2wd]

I encountered that also when I rebuilt my 5 speed(myself). In order to avoid the problem you mentioned I did not have the flywheel turned down. I very much regretted it for the next 2000 or so miles, while the new clutch face and existing flywheel wore together. If you turn down the flywheel, you need to shim either it or the slave cylinder. Contact the place you bought the rebuild kit from, maybe they have the spacers you want. If you have a choice, mount spacers behind the slave cylinder instead of the flywheel - it's easier than removing the flywheel. If you find a source for them POST IT, other people will need it. And do a write up on your experiences! good luck!
--Bob

 

[Tat2dExploder]

thnx for the replies, i already bought a 50 thousandths shim today on my lunch break... so i will install that, and while i'm there i might as well throw a washer by the slave cylinder... i will let you guys knwo how it goes and what kind of diffrence i get thnx again

 

[410Fortune]

PUT 1 or 2 same size washers behind the slave cylinder bolts, in effect moving the slave cylinder further out.
This will really help you with the pedal travel.

You should no longer have to punch it through the floor to get in gear.

 

[Tat2dExploder]

do you mean like the same size as the shim i bought? or what would be a good size washer to put there? i really appreciate the help, this has been such a headache

 

[410Fortune]

Tell me about it! I got to the point where I could drop the tranny and change the clutch out in 6-8 hours total with hand tools, by myself.

Juse use some normal washers, I dont know about an inch in diameter with a hold for a 1/2" head bolt.

You know a normal washer!

hahaha

I would put in the spacer behind the flywheel
then use 1 washer on each bolt of the slave.

Also are you sure all the air is out of the hydro line and slave?

 

[Bored_2wd]

You've probably done this but just in case, make sure you change the little throwout bearing and remember to grease it! It's easy to forget it. I'm not sure, maybe they have to have it removed to turn it down, in which case you've definitely done it. Just thought I'd throw it out there!
--Bob

 

[410Fortune]

Bored, I think you are reffering to the pilot bearing in the flywheel correct?
The TO bearing is the big plastic SOB on the end of the slave cyl.

 

[Bored_2wd]

Yes, you're right, the pilot bearing. Thanks for catching my mistake!
--Bob