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Fog Lamp Mod 2001 (1999-2001?) Explorer

After some exploration, I’ve figured out how to modify the foglamp circuit for a 2001 Explorer so that the foglamps stay on with the high beams. This mod is actually much easier, IMHO, than for the earlier models.

First, I located the relay box. It’s mounted to the same plate that holds the bottom of the airbox. I got into it, and here’s what I found:

1. There are sockets for a total of six relays, two large (the size of a conventional Bosch relay) and four smaller relays, in a 1 2 1 2 configuration. The six sockets were arranged like this, with socket 1 being toward the front of the vehicle:

1
2 3
4
5 6


On my Explorer, socket 1 was empty from the factory.

2. The small type relays in sockets 2 and 3 control the foglamps. Why two relays? One to turn on the foglamps when the parking lamps go on, the second to turn off the foglamps when the high beams come on.

3. By checking the wiring on the back of the relay sockets, I came to the conclusion that relay 2 as shown above turned off the foglamps. Why? It was wired so that power flowed when the relay was _NOT_ energized.

4. The small relays, Ford part number F57B-14B192-AA, SPST relays. There are 5 pins on the relay, laid out as follows:

------- 3

------- 5

| | |
| | |
2 4 1


Pins 3 and 5 are .25" wide; pins 1, 2, and 4 are smaller, about .187".

The corresponding sockets are not numbered at all that I can detect.

5. Relay 2 is wired so that power flows from pin 3 to pin 4 when the relay is not energized. Only when the relay is energized is the power cut off. Power goes from pin 4 of relay 2 to the control circuit side, pin 1, of relay 3. In other words, run a jumper from the furthest away wide socket to the center narrow socket of relay 2, and the foglamps don't go off when the high beams come on.

6. To make the foglamps stay on when the high beams come on, I removed relay 2 and ran a jumper wire from pin 3 to pin 4. Just as simple as that.

7. I made a jumper from 16 ga. wire with a male spade connector on each end. For the wide connector I used 3M from Wal-Mart. For the narrow connector I used Radio Shack #64-3134. I didn't measure, but the assembled length of the whole thing was about 2" to 2.25". Jumpered pin 3 to pin 4 and it works like a charm.

The whole procedure took about 20 minutes to actually do, but would have been 5 minutes or so shorter, less the following: When wrestling with the airbox, (a) It came loose suddenly, (b) My head banged into the hood, (c) The drop light fell, breaking the bulb, and (d) I had to find a new bulb for the drop light.

This worked on my 2001. I suspect it will work on any 1999 to 2001 Explorer where the foglamps already come on with the parking lights, and it may be useful for the 2002s and later.

BTW, the wiring to the fog lamps is badly undersized and the pins on the bulbs are badly undersized also. My bulbs are the, I think, 9145s, that have an H-1 bulb grafted onto an adapter. No way I'm going to go over wattage with this dinky wiring.


--
FWIW; AFAIK; IMHO; YMMV; yadda, yadda, yadda.

Regards, Ed Mann mailto:edlmann@earthlink.net
 



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99Mounty

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i used 18 gauge instead of 16...

i didn't have any 16s, so i just used the thinner 18 gauges.

i figure it's ok cuz the current ain't that large.

or could i be wrong?

i've been running my hids w/ fogs for quite some time; no probs.
 



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Tarron

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I always use the largest wire that the solderless connector lists as I get a better crimp that way. Since I didn't know the amperage that the circuit used, 14 gauge was a safer bet than 16 (or 18). You'll most likely be ok this winter but I would check the jumper next summer when it's warmer to see if it's getting hot.
 






edlmann

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Originally posted by Tarron
I always use the largest wire that the solderless connector lists as I get a better crimp that way. Since I didn't know the amperage that the circuit used, 14 gauge was a safer bet than 16 (or 18). You'll most likely be ok this winter but I would check the jumper next summer when it's warmer to see if it's getting hot.

I used 16 because that's tha smallest size the connector called for. Remember, this jumper only carries the current to energize the main relay - it doesn't carry the current for the fog lamps themselves.
 






os1kne

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I'm also curious to try this out. Thanks.
 






jssong

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anyone ever bother to figure out how to light up just the fogs? wtihout headlights or parking? but then again, people might forget to press the foglight button when they leave their cars:p
 






aldive

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Originally posted by Tarron
A better way to do this would be to "find" an old relay someplace and then just cut off the two small outside blades. That would take away the power from the relay so it wouldn't energize to turn off the fog lights and would still look like a stock setup. I may have to look for a relay the next time I'm at the junkyard. ;)

Why not just use the relay that is already for this mod?

Anyone do this yet?

Thanks.....
 






aldive

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Can someone post a pic or drawing of the relay and which terminals to remove?

Thanks.....
 






Tarron

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Yes, you can use the relay that is in your relay box but I always like to be able to put things back to the stock configuration. To modify your relay, look at the three small terminals on one end.
__
__

l l l

You can cut either one of the two outside terminals to disconnect the circuit. Hope this helps.
 












aldive

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Came across this drawing... might be helpful for someone.
 

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aldive

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This is how the relay box looks on my 99....

the front of the truck is to the right of the picture; pic from the passenger side.
 

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aldive

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I made the mod using the existing relay. I simply cut off one of the outside small terminals and reinserted the relay.

Worked like a charm.

Time involved was less than 10 minutes,; including the removal/replacement of my KKM ( for easier access ).

Thanks for the idea.
 






jssong

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aldive, in the schematic u posted, it shows a fog lamp isolation relay. is it possible to have the fog lights go on by themselves? without any parking lights or headlights on wtih that relay and if so, how would i go about doing it?
 












aldive

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Here is the relay before cutting the leg off.....
 

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Tarron

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aldive, in the schematic u posted, it shows a fog lamp isolation relay. is it possible to have the fog lights go on by themselves? without any parking lights or headlights on wtih that relay and if so, how would i go about doing it?
Hmm....since Ford appears (by the number on the relays) to be using the same relay for the fog light isolation relay I bet they are energizing the relay (to allow the fog lights on) with the power from the headlight system. You would have to find 12 volts that was always on and connect it to the correct pin (1 or 2) on the bottom of the relay box to keep the relay energized. That would be a lot of work and I bet you could just make a jumper to connect from pin 3 to pin 5 (one big blade to the other big blade). I might get out the voltmeter and see if I'm right when the weather gets warmer in a day or two. Don't see a lot of practical use for just the fog lights on by themselves unless you plan on running from the police or someone, and then you'd have to put in a switch to turn off your brake lights. ;)

OBTW Thanks Aldive for the information on what the other relays do as it’s always nice to know how/why something operates.
 






aldive

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Just came in from a short drive after the modification. Its actually worthwile to use the hgh beams ( w/fog lights ) now.

I highly recommend this simple and NO COST modification.
 






edlmann

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Originally posted by Tarron
I bet you could just make a jumper to connect from pin 3 to pin 5 (one big blade to the other big blade).

You can do it that way, but the first time you forget to switch the fog lights off, you'll come back to a dead battery.
 



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Tarron

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Well, I didn't say it was the way I'd do it, just the way it could be done. :D I'm happy with my fog lights being controlled by the light switch.
 






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