Front Locker Performance in a 2nd Generation Explorer

[Premier]

Yup, they just installed the 4:10's
Damn them!!

I hope nothing is wrong with the T-Case... Then I will be back at 4WP and tell them that they installed the locker wrong.
What was wrong about the install? Do you know what could be causing this?

 

[JDraper]

I'd almost BET they ground the cross pin instead of grinding a little off the back of a couple of teeth on the ring gear to make it fit. They did that to someone else (Maybe Jefe), and it caused the locker not to work.........

 

[Premier]

Man... I told the guy to grind the gear, and not the pin! I will take it back to them I guess and explain. I wish I had a shop and tools

 

[GJarrett]

How many Explorers has that 4wp worked on, and how many front lockers have they installed in one?

I can tell you that answer before they lie to you.

Zero.

Yes, they could have screwed something up, whether they will admit it or not. They project themselves as experts, but that's with the experience of hundreds of Jeeps they've worked on. How much experience do they have working on a vehicle like yours?

 

[Premier]

Just curious... but what ill effects could driving it like it is have?

 

[jasonb]

lots of stress on components! josh's problem was with the cross pin. hes broke inside basically upon first testing it and locked the sides in causing it not to disengage, despite not getting juice from the tcase. that's what it sounded like at least.

i would bet either 4wp ground the pin or installed it wrong. if not, then you are getting power to the front driveline it seems. you can wire the vacuum disconnect up via a switch like jdraper did to test it. i don't guess simply removing the front driveshaft will help in your case if that vacuum disconnet is not disconnecting? if you still have the manual, try doing the test in there to see if its installed correctly. you will find out quick if it is or not. all you need to do is get the front tires off the ground. i would try that first. if you don't have the manual, you can download it off of powertrax's website.

 

[Jefe]

Hold up. Why would you have to grind the pin or the gear to get this thing together? Its not like we're dealing with c-clip axles here. You just remove the ring gear, install the locker and pin, and put the ring gear back on. Then you throw the carrier back in and push the axles in.

Thats exactly what I did with my 4.88's. . otherwise I would have had to grind half the pin away.

 

[Jefe]

Originally posted by JDraper
. . They did that to someone else (Maybe Jefe), and it caused the locker not to work.........

Wasn't me. I wouldn't have 4WP work on my truck even if they paid me. I don't even shop there anymore.

 

[GJarrett]

I'm beginning to think there's a major difference between the NoSlip and the Lock Right.... none of us installing the NoSlip has encountered any of these problems.

 

[jasonb]

i'm worried when you are posting at 11PM!!! what's up with that gerald!?

but yeah, i'd like to see a lock right up close now.

 

[GJarrett]

You're right, it's past my bedtime.... c'ya

 

[Josh Adams]

Jason is mostly right about what happened to me. I put my locker in the carrier, but only one of the side gears would free spin, the other was like it was locked in place. After I put the diff back in the truck, I heard a loud clang and it sounded like my CVs busted on me, that wasn't the problem. My truck was driving like it was spooled and in 4wd all the time. It would not give at all. So I took the diff out of the truck and put some hub savers that Jason sent me in the hubs, and am currently driving in 2wd right now. When I tore into the diff and the carrier I noticed that I had broken one of the 4 pins that the springs press into place. I went a bought new pins and springs, and have been in the process of putting it back together for a week or two.

Right now I don't know if I have to use the thrush washers off the side spider gears and there are 2 other pieces that came with the locker that I can't find in the instructions, but I can't really describe then. What I need is a picture by picture install instructions.

I'll get pics of what I'm talkin about so you guys can know what I'm talking about.

 

[jasonb]

based on what you just said, i'm thinkint the lock right is more different from the no-spin than i guessed before.

there just were not that many parts that i remember. have you tried taking a look at the no-slip install instructions on the website and comparing the two?
the only things that remained after installing mine was the ring gear and pinion and carrier. i removed all of the shims. i looked that pic you posted showing the damage josh, but i can't find it.

 

[JDraper]

I was gonna post again this morning, but I couldn't get on the site. After thinking about it, you don't have to grind the pin on the front axle (like Jefe said...sorry I thought it was you that had that problem. Don't remember who it was tho...) because you absolutely have to remove the ring gear to install it.

For those wondering if the Lock Rite is causing a problem in the front...It won't if installed properly. I installed one in the front of Karol's truck, and it works flawlessly. They are different than the No-Slip as you re-use the two side gears instead of replacing them. The two units function essentially the same way, but the No-Slip is just smoother (I've installed at least 3 of each type). There are definitely more tolerance issues that you have to be aware of with the Lock-Right than there are with the No-Slip, but when installed properly, they work fine. One of the things that must be checked is the condition of the existing side gears. If they are excessively worn, then they must be replaced for it to work right. You also have to make sure you use the right shims so that the gap between the Lock-Right gears is correct. They provide a square pin for this purpose (Same with the No-Slip).

I have a Lock Right in the back of my Sammy, Karol has one in the front of her X, and Doug has one in the back of his X. I installed all 3 (Doug and I did the install on his), and all 3 went in fine and work well. Personally, I have absolutely no problems with recommending it for front axle use as long as you have some sort of disconnect (Hubs, axle vacuum disco, brown wire mod). I ran Karol's truck with the front axle locked, but the xfer case in 2WD to see what would happen, and it drove normally.

 

[Josh Adams]

So, let me get this right, you don't use the side gears that come with the locker, is that right. Are you saying that you use the side gears from the spider gears instead?

 

[JDraper]

No, I'm doing all this from memory, and the last one I installed was the sammy. I'm trying my best not to have too many senior moments, but senility takes over occasionally. The kit came without the outer gears that spline onto the axles like the No-Slip does. You re-use the outer gears to mesh with the inner gears that come with the Lock-Rite. I gotta go up to the Powertrax website to see if I can find the directions for the Dana-35 axle to refresh my memory on it.

 

[JDraper]

Here's one of the manuals: Lockright Install Manual . It's not the one for the Explorer front axle, but it gives you the idea. With the Lock Right, some of the kits come with side gears, some do not.

 

[Premier]

Well, locker is installed right. Its the T-case. They say that it has speedo sensors going to it, or something, and that they are telling the front driveline to engage. He said either remove the locker, or switch to a manual t-case. So looks like the brown wire mod this weekend? I need to do some reading..

 

[jasonb]

i would HIGHLY recommend the brown wire mod. i think that is pretty much necessary. the control trac will try to make the front engage often. get an illuminated rocker switch when you do the brown wire mod and you will see how often control trac tries to kick in at low speeds. its like everytime you mash the gas! tackle that this weekend and see how it works out.

 

[Jefe]

Originally posted by jasonb
. . .Get an illuminated rocker switch when you do the brown wire mod and you will see how often control trac tries to kick in at low speeds. . .

Now thats a cool idea You could just glance down and see whether you were in 2wd or 4wd. (Gerald, you catch that? )