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Front Locker Performance in a 2nd Generation Explorer

Yea, I just didnt think that I needed the BWM because I have a 96'... So much for that though :rolleyes:
 



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Originally posted by Premier
Yea, I just didnt think that I needed the BWM because I have a 96'... So much for that though :rolleyes:
My only thought is that the software didn't change much between years. (it is the same t-case case afterall) and so the axle disconnect is the only thing actually keeping you in 2wd (w/o a locker). But with an auto locker the axle disconnect doesn't work like it should.
 






Here are the pins that broke after I first installed the locker.
2799For_Sale_044.jpg


Here's the stock cross pin beside the Lock Rite cross pin. Notice that the one is longer than the other.
2799For_Sale_042.jpg


Now here is what I am confused about. I don't know where the piece on the right goes when installing the locker. I don't know what it is called, so I don't know what the instructions call it. I'm usually pretty good about figuring stuff like this out, but this I am at a loss.
2799For_Sale_034.jpg


Any ideas.
 






A couple of things. Jake, you do not have to do the brown wire mod with a properly functioning '96. Since the '95 and '96 have 4 modes on the dash switch (2WD, Auto, 4 Hi, 4 Lo), putting it in the 2WD mode is effectively the same has having the brown wire mod. If you are still getting power to your transfer case in 2WD, then you have a problem somewhere in the system that needs to be fixed. Karol's truck does NOT have the brown wire mod in it and it works fine ('96 Muddie Bauer).

(again, this is partially from memory. :p ) Josh, the parts on the right of your picture are spacers. They go with the other part on the right of your pix and fit inside the piece on the left. If I remember correctly, the large one goes in through the driver so that the open end of the cup is facing the side gears, and the other piece goes chamfer side into the driver from the gear side of the driver. They should mate up into a donut shape. They help keep the driver (the piece on the left) aligned with the axleshafts when the locker is released. Without these, you're gonna end up with misalignment and busted pins, like you have in pix #1.
 






Originally posted by JDraper
Since the '95 and '96 have 4 modes on the dash switch (2WD, Auto, 4 Hi, 4 Lo),

wow.. i completely didn't know that! and now that i think about it, i've seen that in many threads. i'll go look for my long term memory now...
 






My 96 has 2wd,4 auto, 4lo.
 






Originally posted by JDraper
A couple of things. Jake, you do not have to do the brown wire mod with a properly functioning '96. Since the '95 and '96 have 4 modes on the dash switch (2WD, Auto, 4 Hi, 4 Lo), putting it in the 2WD mode is effectively the same has having the brown wire mod. If you are still getting power to your transfer case in 2WD, then you have a problem somewhere in the system that needs to be fixed. Karol's truck does NOT have the brown wire mod in it and it works fine ('96 Muddie Bauer).
JDraper--
Yea, mine isnt "properly functioning". The shop told me that there was nothing wrong with the T-case, and thats how it is supposed to operate. So either I have a problem somewhere, or the computer isnt programed right like Jefe said. I have the wiring diagram from the BWM now, and my truck is being torn apart in my garage. So I will wire in the relay, and switch, and hope for the best. If it still doesnt work, then I am going to have to put in a manual T-case, or remove the front locker.
P.S. My 96' has 2wd, 4Auto, 4Lo
-Jake
 






Ya folks gotta remember I'm doing a lot of this from memory, and it gets fuzzy with old age :cool: ! Besides, I haven't seen the inside of a '96 since last fall :p. The gist of it is that you have a true 2WD mode in the '95-'96 models that allows you to run a locker up front without having to do the brown wire mod.....
 






Originally posted by Premier
JDraper--
Yea, mine isnt "properly functioning". The shop told me that there was nothing wrong with the T-case, and thats how it is supposed to operate. So either I have a problem somewhere, or the computer isnt programed right like Jefe said. I have the wiring diagram from the BWM now, and my truck is being torn apart in my garage. So I will wire in the relay, and switch, and hope for the best. If it still doesnt work, then I am going to have to put in a manual T-case, or remove the front locker.
P.S. My 96' has 2wd, 4Auto, 4Lo
-Jake

If you want to try it out before going through the trouble of wiring up the switch, you can disconnect the main connector to your transfer case, it will disable it completely. Back when I was doing some work at the Ford test labs in Allen Park, MI that was how we ran the '97 and up Explorers on the dynos since Ford didn't have any 4 wheel dynos at the site. I tried it on my '97 prior to wiring in my switch to verify that it does work. With my Explorer up on 4 jack stands and the connector disconnected, the front tires do no turn at all. With the connector connected, the front tires started turning as soon as I took my foot off the brake when in D. You can verify it on yours by doing the same (put it up on 4 jack stands and disconnect the connector). If your front tires do not spin then you have eliminated the possibility of the transfer case supplying power to the front axle.

I am curious about your vacuum disconnect though. Is it mounted to one axle from the differential thereby cutting the power to one wheel or does it mount to the drive shaft in which case it would cut power to the front differential completely? It has been a couple of years since I have been under a '96 so I can't remember. If the vacuum disconnect is between the driveshaft and front differential, then the brown wire mod will not do anything. If the disconnect is on one of the two axles and only cuts power to one of the axles (which is what I think Ford did) then the software for the '96 transfer case is probably the same as the software for the '97 transfer case. Ford just cuts the power to one wheel and since the differential is open (before the locker was installed), it effectively puts it into 2WD. However, since the transfer case is always supplying at least 4% torque to the front axles and now that you have a locker that is actuated by torque, it must be enough that is causing it to engage which will result in being pulled around. As it engages and disengages, the front wheel that isn't being disconnected by the vacuum disconnect is constantly getting power applied and taken away. This will pull you around. If this is the case, then the brown wire mod will work.

On a true manually operated transfer case, you cut 100% of the power from going to the front differential which I believe is what Ford used on the Rangers. They didn't get the same transfer case as the Explorers (at least the '98s didn't). Their modes of operation were 2WD, 4WD high and 4WD low. The explorer is different in that it has the Auto mode which means a minimal amount of power is always going to the front.
 






Robert, the vacuum disconnect is between the differential and the right front wheel, and just disconnects the right front wheel from the system. Also, the '95 and '96 Explorers have a "2WD" setting on the dash that does (as far as I could tell with Karol's truck) completely cut off power to the front end. With her truck in 2WD, I could move the truck forward with someone looking under it and see no driveshaft movement with the open diff and the right front wheel vacuum disconnected from the system. As soon as I threw the vacuum switch that I had installed and "re-attached" the right front wheel to the system, the driveshaft would rotate as expected. I also drove her truck for quite a few miles (over 150 of them on the highway at 65 mph) with the locker in the front, and absolutely no handling issues at all. It drove like I had an open front diff. I did throw it in 4wd once on the highway with the right front wheel disconnected, and it defintely went into "3 wheel drive" as it pulled to the right significantly.
 






Well, I have all the parts for the BWM, but I will find some jackstands and lift all 4 tires off the ground. I'll then unplug the T-case connector thats under the seat to see if the BWM will be effective. If its not, then I will have to pull my front driveshaft untill I can get a manual T-case installed.
-Jake
 






Which side is the chamfer side? Is it the flat side, or the side with the flange type thing sticking out?
 






Well, I am ready to put the diff. back up under the truck now. I just wrapped up the reinstall. I just hope everything goes well this time and I don't have to take it back out anytime soon.
 






Good luck Josh.

Unplugging the t-case didnt help at all. Its shot I think. Time for a swap I suppose... Front driveshaft is getting pulled tomorrow, so no 4x4 for a while :(
-Jake
 






Well, I got it all back in today and it works very very well now. I am pleased with it so far on the street. Haven't really had it on anything yet. Will test it out next Sat. at Tellico though.
 






glad you finally got it all back together!!!
 






upon further review of the locker performance while at tellico recently, i have to say.. i love it! there is one bank that i could go up before but with some tire spinning and skinny pedal. this last time it was in much worse shape and i made it up just easy going. front locker = nice!
 






I agree with Jason, I love my locker after I got it all worked out. Now I have a really nice sleeper as Gerald says.
 






Howdy Guys! Are you ready for what I have to say?

I am the proud owner of a 99 Ranger 4X4 and I have endevored to place a no-slip in the front (35)... It will not go in there. In a phone conversation between the vendor and POWERTRAX and me while the 35 was open... it was decided that POWERTRAX has advertised and DOES NOT HAVE a locker that will install in 1999 and later Ranger front ends.
I placed the back one in there with great sucess.. I am very happy with the way it works.
So some of you say you have a front locker in 99 and later front ends. I wonder if you have early model front ends?
If you have a POWERTRAX in the front of a 99 or later 35, why does POWERTRAX tell me that NOBODY makes a locker or a slipper that will function in there? They say they advertise it because when the advertising was set up they thought they could at that time.
If I am wrong on this it is because I was told wrong by the vendor and the manufactorer at the same time 6 weeks ago.

I could teach a class here on the speed of the driveshafts as related to the speed of the front and then the rear axels.. Maybe later.
C'mon guys lets talk. Is there a difference in the 35's in the Ranger and the Explorers?
Big Jim :)
 



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I just went to RICHMOND GEAR

I checked on the D-35 number for their no-slip the number is: 92-0435-2702.
Then I checked on their installation manuals... There is NOT a manual on their site for this part number.
The 99 and up D-35's require IFS and ABS. I also left mail for everyone In their building. I intend to get to the bottom of why some here say they have it and the factory REPAID both me and my mechanic and told me they were sorry.
Big Jim :) :)
 






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