Front strut bottom bolt "springs" back

[ROBinGa]

I am trying to remove the bolt that attaches the strut to the lower control arm on drivers side. I started to loosen it with my 24 mm socket wrench 1/2 size with a 4 foot piece of pipe for leverage. The first pull on the nut to start it made a loud pop then it started to move ever so slightly. But what happens is when I move the bolt head with my socket and pipe the full amount I can until I run out of room at the fender, then it springs my ratchet back instead of the ratchet being able to reset and grab again. I cannot get the bolt head to loosen. I can't get anything on the nut head and it does have the tab attached to the nut still. The other thing is the tab is in the position so that it would help to tighten the nut. The nut and tab tries to spins while I try to remove bolt but it needs to rotate 180 degrees to be able to touch the lower control arm to stop moving. I have tried to remove also with my air impact tool which is from Lowes so not heavy duty mechanic grade. It just clunks away and won't loosen the bolt either. I can't figure why it seems to be spring loaded. Any idea what's happening here and preventing the bolt from loosening?

 

[Ronin8002]

the bolt may be rusted to the metal sleeve that runs through a rubber bushing in the lower eyelet of the strut. I suspect that's what you are twisting against, causing the springy action. Try applying a lot of heat from a torch (MAPP or acetylene...propane may not be hot enough) to the bolt head, you may be able to get it hot enough to break down some of the rust on the part inside the eyelet. You're going to have to get it red hot....wouldn't hurt to heat the other end also and get that red hot too so you can be sure the center section that's rusted is hot enough. If that works, you should be able to turn it enough so the flag on the nut will stop against the lower control arm and let you turn the bolt. Also, try using a long breaker bar, with a pipe slipped over it so you get more leverage for turning.

 

[ROBinGa]

Thanks Ron, I have been using a 4 foot piece of gas pipe on my ratchet for leverage so I don't know how much more leverage I can get. That info on the sleeve inside the shock bushing is helpful. I haven't tried the passenger side yet so I may try it and see if it works then inspect those parts to see what I am dealing with. Thanks

 

[Ronin8002]

Cool, good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

[ROBinGa]

I just sprayed a crapload of PB blaster (again) on bolt and nut but this time also the bushing ends and the strut eyelet. Will let that soak all night. I did fire up my impact and tried just for kicks. No luck. BUT what I was able to do is rotate the tab on the nut all the way over so that if the bolt were loosened the tab would provide resistance. I did that with a pry bar and 3lb sledge while putting loosening pressure on the bolt head. So I thought , now I will get that bolt to turn in the nut. No luck in fact the nut sprung back on me as I let off the pressure. So I am really stumped at what could be wrong....

What could that loud pop have been the first time I tried to loosen the bolt head? I mean it was really loud.

 

[ROBinGa]

Just found some older threads describing my exact issue. Ron looks like you are right on the rubber bushing contributing to my issue. Looks like a sawzall and lots of blades is in my future for tomorrow. Those posts show that they had to cut through that hardened steel 3/4 bolt after spending hours doing the stuff I've tried with no success. It's also always the drivers side. It's going to take several blades to cut that monster bolt which I also have to get. Wonder why only driver side?

 

[drdoom]

Rob I had the same thing. I wasted a couple days and bruised my thumb badly before cutting it out. Still tough, but the one at the salvage yard I pulled out with my fingers. Hope it goes well.

 

[ROBinGa]

So I am thinking of trying to cut the bolt directly beside the strut lower mounting piece that is on the bolt head side. My entire knuckle is off the control arm now so I have easy access. I am thinking if I make the first cut through bolt I might be able to pull the head out then punch the threaded end out through other side. Drdoom do you have advice of how you cut it? Thanks

 

[drdoom]

Rob I am afraid you have to make two cuts, punching it out from either side is highly unlikely. Remember to remove the shock you need to spin it 90° to fit back up through the control arm. Cut the head off, then cut again to the rear from underneath with a 4.5" zip wheel just inboard of the arm. I did have to force the bolt around with socket & breaker bar, making a few cuts.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

Got into the same situation, always on the driver side. The bolt is so rusted that it fused into the shock absorber. The only way you can remove it is by grinding the head, cutting the shock absorber and cutting the inner end of the bolt. It will just drop down. Space is tight so don't expect your tools to fit in easily, it's the accessibility that's a real pain in this kind of work. Also that's a $40 bolt, think about that.

https://www.facebook.com/diyfordexp...0528882348605/710595059008648/?type=1&theater

 

[ROBinGa]

Lincoln thanks for the link to picture, I saw that in some older posts too. if I don't have a zip wheel grinder I can do this with sawzall and several blades can't I? I read others saying it took 5-6 blades. I am seeing that bolt is about $26 MSRP at Ford. At this point I will gladly pay that to get the truck back in business

Example of bolt pricing


View All Parts on Diagram
FORD Genuine Factory Part

Fits 2003 FORD Explorer XLT

Part Number: W710775S439


Shock bolt 2WD Right
Item #6 on image
MSRP
$25.52 Online Price
$14.04

 

[lincolnshibuya]

yep, sawzall will do the job. that $40 is a walk in price at the dealership. I just went to the junkyard and grab one for free (well $2 for the admission, luckily getting one was piece of cake this time using just a breaker bar). some used acetylene but it ended up burning the cv boot too.

 

[ROBinGa]

So 15 sawzalls blades later and strut is out but the head of bolt is still on a piece from strut bushing. The bolt welded itself to the strut sleeve and the cross section I cut looks like a solid piece of metal. Still have to get bolt head off and then good. Passenger side was piece of cake all the way around.

 

[ROBinGa]

Finally got entire bolt off. I heated the seized bushing that was fused to the bolt and got it as hot as I dared with a simple propane torch. I will add that the knuckle was completely off the lower control arm and axle supported by a piece of wire so the CV boot was in no danger. I took a few good hard whacks with my mini sledge and suddenly I could make out the outline of the bolt in the center on the end cross section where I had sawed through the shock, bushing, and bolt. So I took the advice from a comment on an old thread and used a long 1/2 socket extension to start punching the bolt head back through from the other side. Slowly but surely I gained ground then the bolt came completely free of the bushing and came out. Whew that was an ordeal. I am now a fan of heat. Heat is your friend....

 

[drdoom]

Persistence pays off again. Good work.