Frontend damage/inner fender/core support

[sumless]

Greetings, I have a 94 EX that I'm getting ready to repair. I got it for a very low price, was going to use the parts off of it, but on closer inspecting, looks like its in better shape than my original. So, I've been searching and searching the forum for tips on doing this, but haven't found an exact description on replacing the inner fender well, many references but no direct photo series. I have air tools, a welder (Lincoln weld-pak 100) and various other items, so I believe I have the right equipment to take this on but I've never really done a repair to the inner/spot welded areas. Are there some tips you guys might have? I'm not looking to make it factory new looking, but did want to preserve as much as I can without going broke (lol). In all, I am planning on photographing as must as I can and posting it for others.
Here's what I am working with:

This is what I've done so far using a tow strap to pull things out and be able to remove the external quarter panel.

So aside from removing the obvious items (Radiator, upper air intake, all electic attached to the inner fender drivers side, misc items) I am thinking I will need to cut or air chessel the spot welds for this section of the inner fender? Does this make sense or a waste of time?

Any advise is greatly appreciated!
-Joe

 

[sumless]

As well, forgot to mention, I was going to order another core support. Oddly it seems to list for 89 bucks, but shipping jacks it up to 200. Seems to be the case with all of the 3 internet sites that I found.

 

[sumless]

Got a chance to do a little work today, decided to go ahead and start cutting
what I believe will need to be removed. Using an air-chissel I've started cutting some of the spot welds. I should note that this thing cuts rather quickly through this inner fender metal. I ended up turning down the pressure a bit to keep from cutting into pieces I wanted to save.

Heres the reason I need to replace the core support versus fabricating it.
Our favorite enemy, RUST.

As well I discovered another item that will need to be replaced. The fan blades show signs of cracks at the base hub, probably from the impact of the radiator.
Sorry Pix doesn't show the cracks well..

 

[MONMIX]

Okay that EX is MAJORLY effed up.

The inner fender is more often refered to as an " apron "

Dont just get all happy with your air hammer. Grind the face off the EXTERIOR spot welds and drill the INTERRIOR spot welds.

Let me elaborate.
Any spot weld that you need to remove that will be on the metal you will scrap you grind the face off. Meaning with a cut off wheel grind it till you see a little split in the grind area. Do a few a tiny bit at a time. Start off on a few welds that wont matter like the ones across the front of the core support. Once you see what I mean then hit the ones that matter. Removing too much metal is bad. So dont do it. Also wear a face shield, gloves, ear plugs and a dust mask. Yes you will look silly, but better to look silly than to pick metal shavings out of your eye or face, or your hands, or to damage your hearing or get all those metal shaving in your lungs. ( dont believe me ? Spend the day grinding with out a dust mask and then blow your nose, that do you think all that stuff is ? )
Spot welds that over lap and the good metal ( the stuff you are keeping ) should be drilled. Start with a 1/8th inch pilot hole then 1/4 inch will knock out mostFord spot welds.
Do that before all the air hammering. The air hammering will go much better and you will have less metal to straighten when you go to put the fresh metal back on.

 

[MONMIX]

I might add, your photo where you are air hammering that outter rail you are cutting off comes with the apron assembly.

 

[sumless]

Hey Thanks Monmix, was waiting for some tips.
I've had a hard time finding parts using "apron" as a part, googling and such, thus the lean towards "inner".
The bigger spot welds will need the grinding method you've mentioned, thank you for that.
Since the outter rail and the inner liner/apron are both bend beyond belief I figured "testing" a cut on those was no problem, since the bigger and more important was at the door jam. I'll follow your advise forward.
As for the safety, its first. I have googles and wear thick clothing. I use the Ipod for ear plugs, but thats probably not the best. Since I do a bit of welding and hearing about rather hairy situations I've learned, better to burn clothes than myself, fiberglass tought me that years ago while working on my fathers boat.
As for the Majorly Effd. Really? not worth the time or just alot of work?
I figured a new core support was the ticket, looks like the welds on that were done on a friday, thus the rust.

Thanks for the advise!
-Joe

 

[MONMIX]

well, you sound like you are already well on your way to doing this job. It is pretty effed, but not beyond repair by any means The buckel near the door jamb concerns me. That is awefuly far back for a buckel that size.

Tell me does the drivers door open and close just fine ?
Can you see any distortion or damage to the fire wall where it meets the rail?

 

[sumless]

Drivers side door opens without any problem. As well, that buckle is .5 inches from the first spot welds to the piece on the firewall. Looks like there are several layers spot welded together, the apron, outter rail, and a final piece that is spot welded to the Firewall/Doorjam. All the same I checked this evening and there appears to be no movement beyond the buckle.
Thanks for the tips regarding drilling out those spots, it worked out great!
I was able to cut the layers off and as you advised kept the good metal.
I'm still puzzled about the Apron portion. I looked up apron & explorer, got everything from BBQ aprons to aprons for Explorers (I'd call them skirts, bround effects) but nothing thats part of what I'm working on.
Any ideas as to where to find such? I do have a Donor Explorer, but hate to tear that apart as the body is good, but.

Thanks again!
-Joe

 

[sumless]

Opps, forgot to post pixs.

<br>

Still need to clean up a few items, but had to prime things with colder weather coming in.
As Monmix Suggested, WEAR LOTS of protection. Googles and gloves at a minimum, better to cover up all over and mask. I would have taken a pix of the red hot metal that burnt up my shoe, but a hot foot is hard to stand still on lol

 

[MONMIX]

looks good so far

is that a zinc weld thru primer ?

 

[sumless]

Yes. Weldable primer, er weld thru that is. lol. Not zinc. Its an aluminimoxide base. Bit pricey, but find its worth it in the long run. Glad I did it too, we ended up havin a nice snow storm here (Ma) so my work has been delayed, as well my response, sorry. I've come to the sad descion that I'll have to chop off the apron and core support from the non-working ex I have, so kind of a bummer. Sort of a shame its engine and exterior are in good condition, but its got a lot of miles (250k+) on it, and the tranny is shot, actually caught on fire during the snow storm, always carry a fire-extingusher. Even snow doesn't put out that kind of fire, but the FE did.

So any suggestions on removing the apron off of it (the good one) without distorting it badly?
That would include the inner fender rail. Was thinking to drill out the spot welds, than by hand tap off the remaining?
I'm going to tackle getting off the core support, driver side apron and fender rail. I'll than tack it all in before welding the seams. Good, bad, or worse?
Thanks for your advice!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

MONIX! i cant believe you left out something VERY important. when you put it all back together, you need to measure the apron, and core supports, like 5 zillion times! if you go to a body shop, or ford dealer, they may have the frame specs you need, and at the points they need to be measured from. if you don't do this, your fenders, or hood may be miles out of alignment. as well, when you put the new parts on, just use vice grips to hold them in place as you measure, and not wield them. that way if you have to, you can move things around a bit.

 

[DeRocha]

Looks like a fun project... Are those back ground photos in Boston?? I notice you list Boston as your home city, but the pics don't reflect it.

 

[sumless]

Hmm, very good point vroomzoomboom, Luckly I checked the forum before tearing the donor Ex out. Gonna measure like crazy, As you mentioned if even off a little bit somewhere, the whole thing will be a nightmare in the making.
The Core support seems to have 2 bolts that attach to the frame, so those will be a good reference, but measurements and ton-O-pixs are a must since I don't have the factory specs..

DeRocha, Boston is close to me, about 30 miles east, I'm actually in Marlborough, but find ppl know Boston better Fun, well I know its a challenge lol...

I'll post more Pixs this evening. Its about 60 out today, so need to take advantage of that...

Thanks again vroom!

 

[sumless]

Was hoping to get more done today, but.. Heres both of the Exs.

While taking apart the donor Ex, I noticed something.. See if
you can tell, and no its not the Beer! lol...
This is the Donor one, my old Ex

Here's the new/rebuilding one.

Anyone notice anything odd? Specifically with the coresupport?

My guess is my original one was in some sort of frontend collision, must have wiped out the core support..... No stickers, and no tag (not pictured) with the VIN stuff... hmmm. Heck I never noticed till now, but that should have been a sign when I got it 2 years ago. I think it was the stereo (JBL with Sub) that got most of my attention when I bought it... Shame on me... Darn Led Zepplin lol... Such is life.
Well, moving on, got the quarter panel off, and the inner fender skirt (Not certain of the technical term for that plastic piece that goes from the quarter to the inner/apron). Grill and headlight assembles are sitting in my kitchen. Don't think I can convience the Miss that we CAN put those in the dish washer, for a clean start. j/k

Tomorrow should be warm (well if you consider 50-60F warm) enough to start
cutting out the inner/apron.
With the advise of MONMIX, drilling and careful cutting should get the core support and driverside apron off. I bought 3 drill bits, titanum 1/8". Last go round the drilling of the spot welds really wipes out drill bits so best to have extras on hand..

I guess my biggest problem is how to get the stereo from the donor to the rebuild.. ok, so that a small problem, but still...
Thanks for your advice!

 

[sumless]

Oh, one thing I might add, These tranny coolers, there terrible. While working on this project, to satisfy my curiousity, I ran the donor Ex, it still moves, but after it gets hot its trans goes south. Anyways the only part of the trans cooler that seems to get hot is the bottom part, the top was ice cold and I measured 200F at the bottom. Thats going to be the first mod on the rebuild. Seems like the flow is from the bottom to the bottom. makes no sense. Should flow like the radiator, top left to bottom right, or perhaps I am missing something?
sorry to rant, seems a bit odd is all.
-Joe

 

[DeRocha]

If the donor vehicle is in better shape (new core support and no body damage) why not just swap engines and transmissions? Seam to me it would be less $$ and time all around.

 

[sumless]

Unfortunately theres a lot more wrong with the donor than pictured. Initially I was going to do just that, but when I started looking at all of the items on the "to-do" list the $s were way higher than the swap I'm attempting. If I were to go that route, I would want to 1: rebuild the engine and tranny, no sense in taking them out and not doing that. 2. replace most if not all of the driveline components (i.e. ball joints, ujoints, Diff) not to mention the amount of rust on the floor boards. I suppose i could have gone either way on this, but the cheaper route right now just means more labor/time instead of $s on my part. As well, the project ones driveline is in much better shape, and the engine and tranny seem to be in good if not better shape than my original.
All in all, I've spent about maybe 200bucks on this so far. Most of that is for the radiator. I'm sure a few more $s but I can't see it costing more than maybe 400bucks more. Granted if I were not on a budget, it would be a whole different story

 

[MONMIX]

MONIX! i cant believe you left out something VERY important. when you put it all back together, you need to measure the apron, and core supports, like 5 zillion times! .

D'OH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah that very crutial step did slip my mind !!!!!!! Fit up is important too.
Hold every thing to gether with a few self tapping sheet metal screws and put the sheet metal and hood latch and fit every thing up like it is ready to go.

 

[wolfnutts]

didnt want to seem like im hijacking this but i tryed to write to ur email an it got kicked back to me sumless hi
i was reading about ur project on explorer forums.

what are ur plans for the other trk ?? the one u pulling parts
from u said it was burnt up ?? im in new hampshire but
depending on whats left when ur done an price i my be interested ??

bill