fuel line elbows

[mechjames]

while changing my float tonight, i believe i cracked the elbows which the fuel line and return line go into the tank. they just spray out a fine squirt of fuel when the tank is pressurized.

is this part easily changeable? i haven't been able to get the lines off yet to get at the float and the sending unit because of the corrosion.

what would be the suggestions to repair this? could I just coat it all from where the elbow meets the hose to where it meets the tank with JB weld?

 

[wolfnutts]

no jb weld stuff if you really have a leak their at the elbow its part of the sending unit ,an you will need a new lock ring
an you shouldnt be doing this with the battery hooked up ( im assuming u are ? )

 

[mechjames]

uh, i understood the second half of your post, but not the first half:

"no jb weld stuff if you really have a leak their at the elbow"

so why won't JB weld work? it works on gas tanks, and is gasoline resistant. Plus its just a hairline fracture from corrosion. and what do you mean "if i really have a leak there at the elbow" i just said i did.

 

[Burns]

If there is corrosion go ahead and spend the 100 bucks on the entire unit new. If there is corrosion causing cracks there will be more showing up later on.

 

[mechjames]

i think what i will be doing is getting another one, and coating the elbow where it meets the sending unit with epoxy so it won't corrode the elbows in the future.

 

[Burns]

They would be easy to coat but if its already leaking its not worth the risk

 

[mechjames]

what i meant on the new one i'd coat with epoxy to keep it corroding in the future, to keep from having this problem again

 

[mechjames]

also a question. is the fuel lines on the tank elbows have to be disconnected with a special tool like the filter clamps have to?

 

[Burns]

Oh i know i just dont like fooling around with fuel systems. I guess im carried away with being safe here


and im pretty sure they have to. i dont remember. Hopefully someone else will chime in here

 

[mechjames]

so, i think that they are duck-bill fittings. i guess i will need to get a tool to pull the lines off.

anyone want to chime in?

 

[little x]

I believe you are right. They cost about $5 a piece. There are a few different sizes, numbered with letters: A-H or so, either 4 or 2 sizes per tool.

 

[mechjames]

i've picked up a tool from A to D, sizes 3/4" 5/8" 1/2" and 3/8", perfect for my needs. the same tool works on air conditioning systems too!

 

[wood1]

You can also get little replacement elbows, cut the corroded piece off level with the top of the sending unit and braze the new one into the old hole. That's what I did with mine. Much cheaper than replacement.

Clean it up and spray some tremclad on the beast, new lock ring and seal, it's good to go.

 

[mechjames]

yea, it was so corroded, the elbow broke when i pulled the fuel line off.

i also had the wrong tool. i had to get a 5/16" removal tool for this.

so i'm picking up a new sending unit for $112CDN with tax at NAPA today, and will be installing it tonight.

 

[gsmaclean]

I replaced the float mechanism in my 94 Limited a few months ago. I bought a new float assembly at Rockauto.com for $65 (see it here), and it included a new locking ring. Just in case you want to wait a couple days and save $50 instead of buying at NAPA.

 

[mechjames]

well for $65 plus shipping to canada, which takes about a week, it works out to $102 with shipping, plus GST when it gets here to canada. So it works out. I get a discount from napa with my school too. Napa wanted $142CDN before taxes, and they broguht it down to $112CDN after taxes. Not too shabby.

I have ordered stuff from rockauto before, like transmission filters. They're prices are worth the wait when they have stuff on wholesaler closeout.

 

[DeRocha]

As you already surmised it is best to just purchase a new sending unit rather than to chance a repair on a mending product like JB Weld.. You'd be really mad if you hit a bump a few months down the road and it started leaking all over the place.. droping the tank is a pita and having to do it twice would make you

I would always recommend the Fuel pump sending unit be replace as a unit with the fuel pump.. These lines are just zinc coated steel and will rust out quickly unless you live in the rust free belt.

 

[gsmaclean]

As you already surmised it is best to just purchase a new sending unit rather than to chance a repair on a mending product like JB Weld.. You'd be really mad if you hit a bump a few months down the road and it started leaking all over the place.. droping the tank is a pita and having to do it twice would make you

Not necessarily. I just unbolted the rear seat, flipped it up, pulled the carpet up, took an air chisel and cut a hole in the floor, which takes literally seconds. I reached in, pulled out the old sender and put the new one in, Then riveted some metal and sealed over the hole I had cut out. Good as new, and didn't have to drop the tank.

 

[mechjames]

the job is done. new sending unit is in the tank. works awesome!

plus it also didn't really take too long. hardest part was putting the skid plate back in.