Fuel Pump/Gauge malfunction after dash removal

[Traveler31]

Had a mouse nest deep inside near the heater core and wanted it gone along with the smell. Started removing things and ended up taking out the entire dash. Got everything cleaned up now and started putting it back together. Went to start it up and it cranks but does not run. I don't have a good way (yet) to check for spark, and I can feel the fuel pump relay click under my finger when the key is turned to 'on'.... I can not hear the fuel pump run. Gas tank level should be around 3/4 full, but gauge shows very little fuel (just above empty). About an hour after the battery was reconnected, the gauge is showing nearly 1/4, but still much less than what is really in there. Swapped fuel pump relay with working horn relay, still getting the same click and the horn still works. Fuse also looks good.

Before I start the fuel pump replacement, I want to make sure I am not missing something simple. There were a lot of electrical connectors disconnected to get the dash out, and I could have missed one, but I have checked over everything and it looks like I got them all. I don't have my seats or the center console in... and a few components are not currently in, but I tested with just about everything connected (except the radio and pedal height adjustment switch).

I can buy a spark tester and a fuel pressure gauge... anything else I should check? What connection would have the fuel pump and fuel gauge control?

 

[Traveler31]

Okay - I disconnected the battery and reseated all electrical connections I could find, and after connecting the battery again, the fuel gauge is showing the correct amount of fuel. However, it still will not start, and I can't hear the pump kick on when starting. I checked the fuel inertia switch as well, and it works as intended as far as I can tell.... So, with no fuel pressure shrader valve on a 2004, I decided to go ahead and change the fuel pump. I went the 'redneck' way and cut a hole with my tin snips in the floor... I had a terrible time with the fuel line on top of the tank until I realized how the quick release clip worked... and then an even more difficult time getting the locking ring back on... but I finally did. When I went to start it up again - still nothing. No pump running and no start.

So it has to be a power issue. Relay still seems to click on, and switching with another relay makes no difference. Fuel pump fuse looks good as well. I hope to look at the old pump and tell which electrical connector on top goes to the pump, and from there, hopefully I can check for voltage and work my way back to something that may be causing the problem. Again - any suggestion on where to look, or where to test for power will be helpful, and I will get back with you as I test.

 

[Traveler31]

Found the problem... here is what I did... First, I disconnected the plug closest to the pump and tested for voltage - nothing there. I checked at the inertia switch, and it had voltage. So, I decided to make sure I knew what I was doing. I stuck a screwdriver into slot #5 on the fuel pump relay and using a long alligator clip wire and my voltage meter, I checked resistance to the red wire going to the inertia switch. All good there. So then, from the red wire going in to the switch to the white wire exiting the switch - good there. So then, the exit white wire to the bulkhead connector just above (to make sure I was following the correct white wire) and then through the bulkhead connector and back down to the floor. The wire then heads through the bundle along the passenger side doorways all the way to the very back. And that is where I found the problem. I had removed two electrical clips on a black box behind the cargo side panel and never plugged them in. It was so long ago, I forgot about it. Connected both plugs and cranked it and it started (after a moment, since the new fuel pump had never had fuel in it before).

So, a super simple fix, after changing a fuel pump and reseating all the front electrical connectors, but at least it is working again, and I have a new fuel pump. Now I just need to go ahead and switch the fuel filter while I am at it... and then I can be done with the fuel system. Next step is removing the headliner (how the mice got up there, and how there is room for them, I may never know), but nothing up there should prevent the car from running.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Found the problem... here is what I did... First, I disconnected the plug closest to the pump and tested for voltage - nothing there. I checked at the inertia switch, and it had voltage. So, I decided to make sure I knew what I was doing. I stuck a screwdriver into slot #5 on the fuel pump relay and using a long alligator clip wire and my voltage meter, I checked resistance to the red wire going to the inertia switch. All good there. So then, from the red wire going in to the switch to the white wire exiting the switch - good there. So then, the exit white wire to the bulkhead connector just above (to make sure I was following the correct white wire) and then through the bulkhead connector and back down to the floor. The wire then heads through the bundle along the passenger side doorways all the way to the very back. And that is where I found the problem. I had removed two electrical clips on a black box behind the cargo side panel and never plugged them in. It was so long ago, I forgot about it. Connected both plugs and cranked it and it started (after a moment, since the new fuel pump had never had fuel in it before).

So, a super simple fix, after changing a fuel pump and reseating all the front electrical connectors, but at least it is working again, and I have a new fuel pump. Now I just need to go ahead and switch the fuel filter while I am at it... and then I can be done with the fuel system. Next step is removing the headliner (how the mice got up there, and how there is room for them, I may never know), but nothing up there should prevent the car from running.

glad you got the soluton!!!!