Fuel Pump/Starter Kill

[burntmetal]

Good morning guys, I recently traded some stuff for a fairly clean 1996 Explorer XLT 4x4. Spent a little money to get it to pass inspection and have been driving it for a few weeks. Ran great until my son opened the door and set off what I'm guessing is the factory Anti-Theft. I used the key to unlock the drivers door and.the horn stopped honking. Tried to stat it to go BMX racing and it just cranks like there's no fuel. How do I reset this? All I've found is info about the "innersia" switch but that doesn' seem to be triggered. I only received one key with it and no remotes. Thanks in advance for the help. I've enjoyed the forum so far.

 

[Turdle]

welcome to the forum

If you follow this procedure taking care to follow it exactly, you might just find the issue.

How to: - Ford Explorer Engine No Start Procedure

Is the tank 1/4 full or more?

 

[koda2000]

The '96 does not have an passive anti-theft system (PATS), at least not in stock form. So you don't have a chipped key. As far as I know the only thing the stock alarm does is blow the horn. If your engine is not starting, it should be a no fuel, or no spark issue, neither of which would have anything to do with the factory alarm going off. Figure out which you're missing and go from there.

Listen for the fuel pump, which should prime for about 2 seconds every time the key is turned to the ON position. You can also try spraying a few seconds worth of starting fluid into the throttle body to see if the engine will stumble to life.

Spark is controlled by the crankshaft position sensor, which reports a signal back to the PCM. I like to pull a convenient spark plug wire, insert an old spark plug in the end and ground the plug to the neg battery terminal using my jumper cables, then you can jump the fender mounted starter solenoid (make sure the ignition key is ON) and look for spark.

 

[burntmetal]

Well I've been tinkering with it for an hour or so. It' got 3/4 of a tank of fresh fuel and it will start on throttle body cleaner. My guess is fuel pump issue, I do not hear it priming when I turn the key. Is there a way to "jump it so I can determine if it' a relay/power issue or a bad pump?

 

[koda2000]

You can remove the fuel pump relay, found in the power distribution box under the hood. First you can try swapping it for another similar unimportant relay to see if that makes a difference. You can also remove the FP relay and use a jumper wire (or a pair of needle nose pliers) to bypass it to see if the fuel pump runs.

IDK, which relay is for the fuel pump on a '96. Refer to your owner's manual.

How to jump a relay -


If the FP still doesn't run it's likely bad. Sometimes thumping the bottom of the fuel tank where the FP is located (toward the rear of the tank you'll see a small tear-drop shaped depression. The FP is located right over it). I've also been able to get an intermittent FP to run by turning the ignition key from OFF to ON multiple times (sometimes can take 20-30 tries).

 

[burntmetal]

I jumped it, still no run. Looks like I'll be taking a PTO day to replace the fuel pump tomorrow. Wish me luck. Lol

 

[J_C]

Ran great until my son opened the door and set off what I'm guessing is the factory Anti-Theft. I used the key to unlock the drivers door and.the horn stopped honking... it just cranks like there's no fuel.

How do I reset this?.. I only received one key with it and no remotes.

I'm wondering if you have an aftermarket alarm system. It seems awfully coincidental for this to happen right after an alarm goes off.

First thing I'd try is disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. Next contact the prior owner and ask about an alarm. Next start rooting around looking for one. Next follow the wiring to see if you find where an alarm breaks the circuit. There's a diagram for fuel wiring (maybe slightly differs for a '96) in the download linked in my sig.

 

[koda2000]

I jumped it, still no run. Looks like I'll be taking a PTO day to replace the fuel pump tomorrow. Wish me luck. Lol

Did you check the relay for 12V power before jumping it?
If you need any advise on dropping the tank let me know. I've replaced a 1/2 dozen Explorer/Mountaineer fuel pumps.

 

[generation2]

Just went through a similar issue with my 96 exp.

it turned out to be interior fuse 19 had blown. from reading others advice double and triple your meter checks before assuming its the fuel pump.

 

[burntmetal]

I've checked all my options and still not getting any sound out of my fuel pump. I still think it' odd that the pump dies at the same time that factory alarm went off. Anyone have any other options I'm open.

 

[koda2000]

The wire harness for the fuel tank are clipped to the inside if the left frame rail, right over the rear axle. If you push the clip's retainer pin through the frame you should have enough slack in the wire harness to pull down and there should be an electrical connector there that you can unplug and test for power and ground, or jump power and ground directly to the fuel pump. If the pump doesn't run continually when jumped, you know it's dead. I believe there are 3 wires that connect to the fuel pump assemble. One is for the fuel gauge, one is for power and the third is the ground. The wire colors inside the tank are red (power) black (ground) and yellow (fuel level sensor). You may have to reference a wiring diagram to see what the colors are once outside the tank.

If you find your not getting power and/or ground on the wire harness side, the pump isn't the issue.

 

[J_C]

I try to do things above or in the vehicle before crawling under, especially during the cold/wet/muddy winter and spring, would first see if there's power coming out of the fuel inertia switch (right side of passenger footwell on a '96, anyone?) since (in factory config) it's the last thing in the circuit before the wire run back to the connector.

If you do have 12V there for a moment when the key is turned on, then I'd crawl under and measure at the fuel pump. If you don't have 12V there, no point in going to the pump, has to be a problem at or before that point.

As far as looking for an aftermarket alarm, you could look under the dash, under the seat, pull the radio and look there or behind the glovebox. Did you disconnect the battery for a minute to see if that does anything?

 

[koda2000]

Sometimes there are aftermarket alarm connections under the steering column. If you remove the plastic trim panel from the driver's side knee area, and the metal plate behind it, you'll get a pretty good look at the ignition switch area. Look for any non-factory wiring there.

 

[burntmetal]

It had an aftermarket alarm at some point in it's life but looks to have been removed long ago. I' m just about finished putting a new pump in and I'm hoping it' the cure.

 

[J_C]

Even if it isn't, if that was the original pump then you were about due for one and have that out of the way.

If the aftermarket alarm hookup involved cutting/splicing wires then that's something else to look at, that the removal could have left behind dodgy wire crimps or even worse, wires just twisted together and electrical taped over.

 

[burntmetal]

Fuel pump fixed it. Terrible job with 3/4 tank of gas. Lol. Also found the 5 digit code for the keyless entry (It's printing on the brain behind the drivers side rear panel)so now I can disarm this junk. Thanks for the replies and hoping my next post is about more fun mods.