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Full-time 4x4 in '96?

snocross1985

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Stratham, NH
Year, Model & Trim Level
2018 Explorer XLT
On my 96 the 4x4 switch looks as such: 2wd, 4x4 auto, 4x4 low. Is there a way for me to get a full time 4x4 high? I hate the auto 4x4, makes me miss my 94 Ex :( . I know the '97 and newer guys have the brown wire mod for full time 2wd. Is there a similar mod for us 95-96 4x4 guys? I imagine there is and just couldn't find a way to on the forum.

Oh ya, and I did search for about an hour. I am not a rookie here. :D

EDIT: mod was successful. Writeup found here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147419
 



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hahaha just kidding :)
 






JDraper discussed it once.. He said he could probably figure it out if he had a 95-96 he could play with for a day.
 






410Fortune said:
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hahaha just kidding :)

Thanks for the advice, Jamie. :D
 






This is one of those things that I don't believe anyone has sorted out yet. As Ben said, I think I can figure it out if someone brings a truck to my place for a day. I need to put the truck on jackstands and monitor the t-case signal with a scope to see what type of signal it requires. There have been several discussions about whether it's a straight voltage signal or a modulated signal. A quick look with an oscilloscope should do the trick.
 






why is the 96 diff from a 97? Different GEM module controls the t case? Sorry I am clueless about these later model 4x4 t cases....
 






410Fortune said:
why is the 96 diff from a 97? Different GEM module controls the t case? Sorry I am clueless about these later model 4x4 t cases....

'95 and '96 Control Trac had no true 4high. It had 2wd, 4 auto, and 4 low. In '97 they did away with the 2wd setting(hence the brown wire mod) and added a 4 high.
 






Does any one no of a mod for the 2000 explorer that will keep it in 2wd not auto 4wd?
 






2000Xplorer said:
Does any one no of a mod for the 2000 explorer that will keep it in 2wd not auto 4wd?

Yep. Do a search on "Brown Wire Mod". Tons of data on how to do it on the site.
 






I worked this all out on the last page of the brown wire thread (or it was the last page at the time).

The brown-wire mod will break the signal to the transfer case on a '97-up transfer case.

(What I like to call) the anti-brown-wire mod works for the '95 and '96 to apply full-time four wheel drive to the transfer case. Basically, you clip the brown wire in the same manner you would for the other mod, but you use a power source (in my case from the cigarette lighter) and APPLY it to the transfer case locking the clutch full-time. You still need to click the OEM switch into 4 auto to make the front axle engage, but it'll work fine.

It draws less than 15A (although I haven't measured it yet, it hasn't blown the 15A fuse I installed) and the cigarette lighter is rated for 20A, so everything's safe.

Does that answer the question?

-Joe
 






Is this the post here that you are referring to: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1189714&postcount=495

So this will give 2wd / 4wd high (when switch is thrown) / and 4wd Lo? If so, and it does in fact work, I might try it. I think you should do a writeup in its own thread so that it can be posted to the Useful Threads forum. That way people like me can find it in the future.
 






snocross1985 said:
Is this the post here that you are referring to: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1189714&postcount=495

So this will give 2wd / 4wd high (when switch is thrown) / and 2wd Lo? If so, and it does in fact work, I might try it. I think you should do a writeup in its own thread so that it can be posted to the Useful Threads forum. That way people like me can find it in the future.

With the secondary switch off, you'll have 2wd/2wd/2 low, and with the secondary switch on, you'll have 2wd, 4high, and 4low respectively.... does that make sense?

-Joe
 






So in the off position i would have 2 wd / 2 hi / 2 lo ; in the on position i would have 4 hi and lo ; and in the other position i would have the factory 4 auto and 4 lo? This is all using a single pull-double throw switch, yes?
 












There is actually a couple of different ways you could wire it depending on the function you want. Personally if I was doing it to a '95/96, I would use a DPDT on-on switch. On one set of contacts, I would wire it up such that the system functioned normally. That would allow you to leave everything the way it normally is now (in case you like the auto feature in teh rain and such). The other set of contacts would be wired to apply power to the transfer case clutch directly.

With it wired that way, when you put the stock switch in 4auto, you have 4 auto. If you want a locked 4wd, you click the brown wire switch on and it locks the transfer case.

I'll draw a quick sketch, scan it, and try to post a link here....

-Joe
 












So use a DPDT switch and wire per your diagram? I will have to try this out and report back. One more thing out of curiosity, what gauge wire did you use to wire up the secondary switch? Thanks.
 






What about the axle disconnect thing? Does it play a role in all of this? Is there another switch we have to include to account for it? Thanx,
 






Oh ya. I forgot about the vacuum disconnect on the axle. Would this come into play, or would it engage with the way gijoecam planned out for the switch?
 



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The wire.... I used either 12 or 14.... whatever I had laying around (not sure....). I believe either one will be fine for less than 15A of current.

As for the vacuum disconnect, you will still need to flip the original switch into 4 auto to lock the vacuum disconnect.

I also wouldn't recommend engaging the brown wire switch when at speed in 2wd because the front driveshaft *should* be stationary. Engaging the transfer case on the fly like that probably wouldn't hurt anything as it suddenly tries to spin-up the front driveshaft and differential, but it certainly couldn't do it any good.

One more note, make sure you do NOT use a lighted switch for it... unless the switch is designed properly, it'll try and send the power to ground instead of to the center terminal on the switch.

Oh, and it just dawned on me that you could use a single pole double throw (SPDT) on-on switch and it would work just as well.

-Joe
 






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