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getting BW 1354 or 4406 or other elec transfer case to work

Now I'm confused...

I'm planning on using an ES4406 on my V8 swap in my sport... are you saying that the switch on the dash won't make the transfer case work the same way as the one for the V6?

Si

Hopefully someone else will chime in too, but from what I've seen, the explorer switch looks to be a variable resistance switch, I designed a completely different system utilizing the stock switch housing but different internal circuitry, the switch now has a constant 12v in and sends a 12v signal out on different channels, whatever position it is in is what gets a 12v signal to send to the relay bank, I took both 4x4 switches out of v6 explorers I think a '99 and '01 and both are the same, they have internal resistors mounted on a pcb. If you were to keep the stock circuitry and try to use the GEM route I am sure that you wouldn't have a problem however I am not certain, but knowing ford nothing changed from a v6 explorer to a v8 expedition,..... build your own circuit, hell with ford:D
 



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Well, wiring ain't my thing (colourblind) so I'm hoping it'll work without any hassle.... if not, I'll be sending you a desperate message to build me one! haha...


Si
 






Well hello and great work there. I wish I could have nudged you a little in the beginning, but you did a lot of hard work there.

I still haven't done my swap, my only excuse is the heat.

I'm still planning to do my TOD 4406 with the stock Explorer 4WD GEM to start with. The stock parts will work as Aaron did it years ago. He did have to add two wires that I need to tack down first, main power wire for the 4WD GEM circuit etc.

I did learn along with others in a thread last year about it, that the Explorer TOD system doesn't have a locked 4WD high position. That is done with the TOD, the electro-magnetic clutch.

I want the locked 4WD high that the 4406 is capable of, and one model did have that, the 1998 Expedition. In that thread we discussed the various different dash switches, and their variable resistances. I have the Explorer switch and two later model switches from the bigger trucks which have four positions. A switch can be built from these which provides the same four resistances as the 98 Expedition GEM uses to create 2WD, A4WD, 4HI, and 4LO.

The switch will look bone stock, except it will move one position farther to the left, for 2WD. That's what I'm going for. I bought a GEM from a 98 Expedition in case it's the only way to operate the switch and TC motor. These TC motors are the same from the 91-01 Explorer, and all the TOD 4406's.

I need to get started on this, I've forgotten most of the details. BTW, you can convert an old 22 gallon Explorer gas tank to work in place of a 95-01 Sport tank. It's the same length but plastic, and it needs an extra sensor mounted into it. Regards,

throw a 4406 in already!!

I found that the switch when assembled only moves 3 positions, I am sure that it can be modified but it has a little ball bearing inside that provides the locking action and it only has three detents, but using the expedition switch im sure would solve your woes like you said, I also wanted the three position because I wanted to utilize a ranger dash piece in the exp, i didn't like the auto, 4H, 4L i like the ranger's 2H, 4H, 4L as shown,

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104_3824.jpg
 






Aaron's truck has the TOD 4406 in it and all of the V6 4WD control parts, GEM/4WD/TOD modules and all wiring. Those parts will operate the 4406 just like they do the 4405 TC. That's how I plan to start with mine. Aaron was about the first to make a 4406 swap, several years ago. His thread helped many others take the plunge with the manual 4406 swap. Evan's thread was more detailed and is used the most due to the driveshaft information.

I took apart the switches I mentioned having. I can mix the 2003 switch guts with the OEM 95-01 Explorer housing etc, and the final part will look just like stock. The switch will have four positions, three matching the OEM positions. That's what I'm after, it looks stock but there is a more left point that provides 2WD. The Expedition GEM module uses four resistances and it looks like the late model switch will work fine. I was thinking of opening up both GEM modules and seeing if the 4WD section is separate enough to be swapped into the Explorer GEM. They don't use the same wiring connectors, and the GEM is not so small that it'd be easy to add to the dash space.
 






I just want true 2 Wheel when I want it and I want it to shift electronically and I wanted the challenge of building my own system, I think though that having a true 2 wheel is my best advantage, I think that if I had a 2 wheel, AWD 4H and 4L setting, I would probably never use the AWD feature, would be cool I guess to have as a possibility,

UPDATE to install,

installed 4406 and rear D-shaft out of a 2001 expedition with a 5.4 and standard susp.

Installed fuel tank and relocated fuel tank bracket from 01 explorer sport,

I have installed my custom dash switch that looks completely stock from the outside, made harness to connect switch to relay bank and from shift motor to relay bank, I've got the relay bank mounted inside a plastic project housing that will fit nicely under the HVAC controls where the ranger's ashtray airbag selector switch will go, it will be covered by the center console, I also tapped the underhood relay bank for the circuit power, My number six slot was blank and according to the owner's manual it is the place for the 20 amp maxi fuse for the transfer case, perfect! installed the wires, connectors and fuse and when you flip the top you see a 20 amp fuse for the transfer case circuit that is actually supposed to be there from ford!I wanted to use deutsch connectors but I just want to get it together now and I can always do that later, still waiting on one last relay to complete then I will take pictures of it all so everyone can see exactly how it works, :D
 












Ditto, that's a lot of work to do very quickly. Well done,
 






Thank you both still have some work to do, but it is coming together nicely the grand moment for me will be when I can actually flip the switch from 2H to 4H or 4l and it actually shifts!!! then I will be happy,
 






still waiting on the final relay to come in the mail, I got impatient and took the shift motor off to manually put it into 4L man that was cool, I also got the correct conversion u-joint from Auto Zone, I got the duralast gold without the greaseable fitting, I didn't like the zerk fitting hanging off to the side maybe potential balance issues? I dont know but it drives great haven't taken it up to a good speed yet but so far so good as soon as the relay comes I can finish the electronics and put it back together...:salute:
 












Sure is, V8 torque multiplied... nothin better:thumbsup:
 






pics of before and after of underhood fuse box, and d-shaft conversion u joint

104_3827.jpg


104_3829.jpg


104_3834.jpg


104_3832.jpg
 






last relay is coming in the mail today! Total relay count is as follows,

2 SPST relays for the 2H cicruit

1 SPST, 1 SPDT relays for the 4L circuit

1 SPST, 2 SPDT relays for the 4H circuit

1 DPDT relay for the polarity control of the motor

1 SPST relay to control the whole thing, To allow power to flow when keyed in the on position. something like an autozone special relay...
I thought about the last one after I designed my circuit board or else I would of designed it to be apart of the board but oh well.

9 relays total to control a bw 4406 shift motor utilizing the stockish dash switch not bad not bad at all.... I'm sure I could of lowered the relay count if I would of used some latching relays but there is always room for improvement!!!
 






Nice work with modifying the unused spots in the fuse box.
 






Thanks, I forgot to put on that little yellow cover piece before I put the fuse in said screw it and left it out!
 












No my transfer case doesn't have a stupid clutch it is true 2H true 4H true 4L I guess you could get similar results with the brown wire mod but then you have to follow the path of others.
 






I wasn't being flippant or disrespectful in my last comment, so please, no offence by what was said, I was just trying to get my head around what you're doing.


Si
 






Thanks, I forgot to put on that little yellow cover piece before I put the fuse in said screw it and left it out!

I would reinstall that yellow part, it is a useful device. It keeps the tiny plastic tangs that hold the terminals in, locked into the terminals. Sometimes without those the terminals can be pushed out the back. Pushing in the fuse might push out one of the wire terminals. Put it back in when you get a chance.

I did a bunch of rewiring for my 99. I upgraded to the ARC system to gain the rear leveling shocks. Tedious work.
 



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I would reinstall that yellow part, it is a useful device. It keeps the tiny plastic tangs that hold the terminals in, locked into the terminals. Sometimes without those the terminals can be pushed out the back. Pushing in the fuse might push out one of the wire terminals. Put it back in when you get a chance.

I did a bunch of rewiring for my 99. I upgraded to the ARC system to gain the rear leveling shocks. Tedious work.

Thanks for the heads up both fuses in that block are hot glued in place but I do need to reinstall that piece
 






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