Give me a double check. A/C . | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Give me a double check. A/C .

Blacksheep Josh

Slinky+Escalator=Fun
Joined
July 31, 2006
Messages
3,629
Reaction score
18
City, State
Statesboro, GA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'01 Ford Ranger, RIP 93 X
During the next few weeks, I'll be repairing my air conditioner.

I know I need to replace the compressor, as you can hear the bearings in the pulley turning. It's currently bypassed. So I'll replace that. Looks like a few bolts and hose connections, nothing to fancy.

I've had the Explorer since 2005, and it's been bypassed since then. I'm just now having enough extra money to afford to fix it. So I'm guessing a new drier/accumulator would be a good idea. This also looks like a crescent wrench will take care of this.

I'm wondering about the 'condenser' in front of the radiator? Should I replace this as well or leave it. I'll be using a vacuum pump to completely get rid of anything in the system before and after installation of new items. Also to get it ready for the 134a.

I've read the writeup and recharing, and also practiced on a few friends vehicles (lol) so I'm good with that.

Anything else anybody can add?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Deffinetly replace the dryer because most compressor warranties require you to do so. I would also get an O-ring kit and change all of the o-rings while you have it apart. There's nothing more annoying the spending all of that time doing the work, just to a slow leak on a o-ring!
 






I wouldn't replace the condenser unless you know its bad. Since you are going from r12 to 134, you need to completely evacuate the system. Make sure you add the correct amount of oil when you are recharging it. You should also consider replacing the orifice. Also, you need a Ford AC line disconnect tool. Needless to say, be very careful when doing AC work.
 






The easy way to tell is to pull the oriface tube when you do the reciever dryer. If you see black stuff on it, you have black death..

At that point change everything you can (especially the condensor as it wont' flush out well at all).. The evaporator will flush out a little better than the condensor but if you can afford it, do the evaporator too if you have black death.. You should be able to flush out the hoses to get the goop out of it, but thats about the only thing you can keep if you have black death.

~Mark
 






Would the orifice be the tube running from compressor to condenser? I'm not sure I follow.

I got the A/C compressor last year from a guy on ebay, felt really solid, and I knew I wasn't going to be using it for a while, so I filled it with oil and plugged it. I go out to the garage once in a while and drain it and refill it. So hopefully that'll be good.

For the Ford A/C Disconnect tool, what does that look like? Expensive?
 






The disconnect tool is a set of plastic clips available at any parts store. They are used for fuel lines also. There about 10-15 bucks
 






The disconnect tool is a set of plastic clips available at any parts store. They are used for fuel lines also. There about 10-15 bucks

Good deal. My buddy has a set so I'm sure I can borrow his.
 






Here is a pic of a clean oriface tube and an extreme case of black death.
blackdeath.jpg


It in the lower a/c line near the passenger tire. I can't ,for the life of me, come up with a way to describe the location better.

~Mark
 






hey ,hate to sound like a fool for asking but can you describe to me what cause's black death in a/c units ? i mean is it trash mixed with compressor oil and some how forms a black material ?
 






It would be metal shavings (like the compressor blowing up) mixed with the AC oil.
 






It would be metal shavings (like the compressor blowing up) mixed with the AC oil.

This is good news for me. The A/C compressor was bypassed because the clutch ( i guess ) on the compressor wasn't engaging anymore. When you turn it by hand, you can hear the bearing/bearings rolling inside.

lol
 






You should still inspect and replace the orifice as part of your repair.
 






You should still inspect and replace the orifice as part of your repair.

Most definitely, I"ll check/flush everything I possibly can while working on it. But I'm hoping because it was just hte clutch that went out, everything should go pretty easy. New compressor, new accumulator/drier, and a vacuum down should do it.

It'll be a good days work I think whenever I do it. Thanks for all the replies everyone.
 






New compressor, new accumulator/drier, and a vacuum down should do it.

It'll be a good days work I think whenever I do it. Thanks for all the replies everyone.

AND flush before putting it all together (you didn't mention it in your 2nd sentence)

~Mark
 






AND flush before putting it all together (you didn't mention it in your 2nd sentence)

~Mark

that to. lol. my plan is "flush everything possible"
 






Featured Content

Back
Top