going for the gusto... | Page 16 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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going for the gusto...

i am sorta new to this forum but i have read most of the "going for the gusto" thread and i was wondering if i wanted to lower my 99 explorer sport about three or four inches should i just go straight to flipping the torsion adjuster and only losen the bolt a little, and then get three inch blocks for the back? i have one other question what is it about lower that makes an explorers wheels look like /---\ ? is it taking out the bolt all the way or flipping the torsion adjuster that makes it look this way or what?
 



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if you want to drop 3 or 4 inches, you'll need to do the flip. removing the adjuster bolt will only give you 2-2.5".

you'll want to remove the adjuster bolt before flipping the adjuster. then put the bolt back in and tighten until your EX is setting at your desired height.

the wheels setting like this / \ is caused by excessive negative camber. this will happen even if you only lower an inch and a half. any good alignment or service shop should be able to install a camber kit when they're doing your alignment to correct this situation.

you DEFINATELY want to get an alignment soon after lowering, as the bad camber and especially the toe-in that you'll have after lowering will eat your tires.

an alignment with camber kit install will cost anywhere from $100 to $200. you should probably visit some local shops to find the best deal.

the size of lowering blocks you'll need for the rear end depends on a couple of things. do you have rear end sag and if so, how much? do you want the front a little lower than the rear?
 












Define "rear-end sag"...I'm not sure if I have it.....Do service stations that do alignments carry camber kits?? If so then I'm all set to do my lowering, camber fix, and rim/tire mounting/balancing at my uncle's......He has a full service station and we get stuff repaired there all the time....I'm gonna be using one of his lifts, so the lowering is gonna be extra easy.....
 






When you look at your X from the side and the back is lower than the front. You can check the difference by measuring from the ground to the top of the fender well. Most places that do alignments carry the parts to adjust camber.
 






basically, if you want to lower your x 4 inches, you want it to be even all around, so if your back is already 2 inches lower than the front, you probably want to lower your front 4 inches, and that means you only need 2 inch blocks for the rear, because it is already 2 in lower. this extra 2 inches is called rear end sag. I had to lower the front of my ex 4 inches and use 2 inch blocks in the back. Its nice, lower, and even now.
 






Right, I lowered mine a little over 2" in the front and put 1" blocks in the back. The front is just a little lower than the back, but it gives it a little bit of a raked look.
194666_2_full.jpg
 






He lives!!!!!!!!!!!


Yes, I am alive and well...just a little stressed. I have done nothing in regards to cars for the last month, with the exception of trying to sell my talon. Sorry for the un-answered emails (Sean). Please don't hate me, or get frustrated with me if I don't respond as quickly as hopped.

I have had mine sitting a little lower than 3" sence I posted that I had done such (when ever that was). I have just reciently began to notice that my stock shocks are wearing out. The front has become conciderably softer due to this, and it is mildly taking away from the ride quality. There is no ill affect from running the stock shock until you must change them, but I am planning on getting some of the dropped shocks (or replacing the shocks all together in favor of something a little more...shall we say adjustable). The bolts will hold their position on the flipped adjuster b/c of the tension and metal's dislike for changing shape ;) Hope this helps.

I am going to email Ben tomorrow and find out what we can do about getting the site up in temp mode, and let it be known that it is always under construction (as is Project X). Ben, if you read this...sorry for not sending you the last bit of info yet. Big ups to you for having such paticence with me.
 






I have quite a bit of time off next week, so I am going to drop Project X some more, and do a few other cosmetic things. I will take lot's of pics, and get them up along with my website. Wish me luck :D
 






good luck, and when its all done... tell me how you got it lower :) :) and if you got new shocks, what kind did you use???
 






carstuff.jpg


K maybe this will help clear some confusion, or it might confuse you more, i don't know, the drawing is really crappy. Ok, look at the picture and notice the A-arms between the wheel (slanted line) and the car body (the square), now notice the torsion bars on both sides of the body coming off the a arms, when you turn these, it slightly turns the a arms. So you see, when the body is lowers, the inside of the A-arms goes down, while the outside slants up, causes the wheels to slant outward. This is what causes your camber to be thrown off, as I understand some of you did not know how lowering the front would affect this. Hopefully this will help, if it confuses you, act like you never saw it.
 






The top one is what happens when you lower and the bottom is what happens when you raise it!
 






Well here it is, the Project X website in all it's glory. As I mentioned before it is no where near complete, and will always be chaning with updates and new articles.

Please feel free to submit questions for my FAQ, and don't forget to sign the guestbook and let us know what you think

Enjoy: http://projectx.bravepages.com/
 






You need to resize the page so it will fit on the screen.
 






What resolution are you running? It fits fine on the screens we used for testing.
 






i cant speak for everybody but the popup ads. are pretty annoying...and some of us might not be running the latest and greatest equipment and not notice the 5mill. adds. pop up......could lead to the windows blue screen of death....just a suggestion.....use banners instead.
 






We have no choice on the ads right now...they are part of the bravenet free service. If there is enought traffic on the site we plan to find a few sponsors so that we can do away with ALL the ads.

Did you have ALOT of popups? It should only do one per page, or at least that is what I have seen so far.

Again, sorry for the ads...feel free to donate to the site fund so that we can get rid of them and serve you better with better options and more bandwidth.
 






Greg,

I'm really getting bogged down on my progress with the lowering. I need to get the u-bolts somehow. They have to be 5/16" thread, 3 1/2" wide and at least 11" long. Know where I can find em? I have posted on this before, and since then I have gone to Trick Trucks, Mid-Atlantic 4x4 and Speed, PepBoys, and Autozone (didn't go there, but called and asked) and found nothing....

Help!!!:confused: :( :( :( :( :(

PS: Check out my brand new site WITH PICS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just click here or click my sig. Let me know what you think!
 






Pics look good man, I really like that color, and the blue neon on the interior.

As for the U bolts...we've all told you how to deal with that.

If you are trying to find the "perfect" U bolt that will leave you with less work and less money, you might try a Ford dealership. Check the sizes on ones for 4x4s and full sise trucks. Doubting they will work but it's worth a shot. Let us know what you find.
 



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SeanM, if you must have the exact ubolt size that you stated, try this. it is not as expensive as it sounds, but WILL be more $$$ than just dealing with the "tight" u-bolts. take your u-bolt specs to a machine shop and have them make some. i had to do this to a friends 4x4 that we put a lift on. 1 u-bolt was wrong size, and as his rig was blocking my driveway/garage we had to have one ASAP. went to local machine shop and had one made. be sure you tell them what it is for, so they will make it grade 8. it cost $10 for one, but the guy said if we needed a set (4) he would have done them for $25.
 






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