Grandma's 91 X. From Stock To Rock! | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Grandma's 91 X. From Stock To Rock!

...These are inexpensive, $39.95 @...Cragar soft 8...;)
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...-3975812&N=700+400292+306459+115&autoview=sku

crr-397_w.jpg
 



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Finaly got the Warn Hubs on last night. They were supper easy to get on also. Took about an hour total for both sides.

After a short test run on the dirt driveway I noticed that the usual noise that I had while in 4x4 went away. The hoise used to be a low hum and It's been there for for so long that I thought it was normal. After replacing the hubs everything is silent. No more hum.

The 2" Skyjacker coils and AAL are suppossed to be coimg in tonight. They should only take an hour or so also right?;)

IMG_0384.jpg
 






paint yours black? much cheaper. almost same look. unless your goin with a wider wheel or a bigger wheel it should work just fine
 






"should take an hour too right?"

Hehe yeah right.
 






the first time i changed coils the driver side took an hour by itself. pass side took 10 mins. start spraying with PB blaster now and give it a couple days of good soaking.
 






The good, the bad, and the ugly.:splat:

**The Good**:D
I got the BL today and the Skyjacker springs and AAL are coimg in tommorow.

**The Bad**:(
Here's the problem though. I want to throw on some 33x12.5 all around. But I just looked at my axle code (45) and it says I have 3.55 gears. Will this be way under powered and cause premature engine / tranny failure?

What would you guys recommend doing to the gears. On the cheap of coarse.
Try to find 4.11 axles at the wrecking yard and change them out or pay to have it regeared to 4.11 to 4.56. According to the chart over at the ranger station.

http://therangerstation.com/tech_library/gearandtirechart.html


**The Ugly**:mad:
What is the usual cost of having the diff regeared compared to an axle swap from the junk yard?
 






Scott,

Luckily Randy's Ring & Pinion is just an hour ferry ride away....As far as labor, Figure on 600 for the front and rear to get re-geared, plus the cost of the gears themselves.

You can have your 3.55's geared up to 4.56 without having to buy another axle.

Ryan
 






You can have your 3.55's geared up to 4.56 without having to buy another axle.

Ryan
There are no carrier breaks on ford axles and the TTB D35/28. I recommend 4.56s.
I wouldn't drive it long at all with 3.55s and 33s especially an auto.
 






With 33's definitely go 4.56's. I ran that combo on my '94 and the rpms were right where they should be on the highway. Had decent power (for an Explorer) and the truck didn't labor to turn the wheels.
 






Just got off the phone with Randy's Ring and Pinion. They said for parts and laber, using the yukon gear set, it would cost $800.

EACH!!:eek:

Calling around localy to see what I can find out. $1600 bucks seems a little spendy, but what do I know.

Has anyone here ever changed out there own gears front, rear or both? I know the tollerances are pretty tricky but is it totaly out of the question for someone who is pretty mechanicly minded? I mean how touchy are these things? I hear the backlash is like .005-.008 of an inch and you need to use a dial indicator. Great!! That just gives me another reason to buy another tool right?
 






Yes, it CAN be done @ home....you MUST have the right tools to do it. There is a fixture that holds a dial indicator in place while setting pinion depth.


Ryan
 






Yes, it CAN be done @ home....you MUST have the right tools to do it. There is a fixture that holds a dial indicator in place while setting pinion depth.


Ryan
You don't need a pinion depth setting tool. You can simply start with a baseline and run a pattern and adjust it from there. You DO need a dial indicator, dial/digital caliper, in/lb beam or dial torque wrench. A press and bearing seperator is really handy for removing the pinion/carrier bearings. I had poor results trying to use an old bearing that I opened up to slide onto the pinion, getting the bearings on is pretty easy, put the part in the freezer for about and hour and they drive on fairly easy.
 






Ask around locally for someone who will set them up for you. I found a small shop that installed my gears in both ends for $250. I took him the rear axle and the front 3rd member out of the truck.

I shopped around and found good prices for the gears. It ended up costing about $700 for both ends.
 






Still waiting to here back from a few shops. I also have a call into the master technician at our local community college. they are acually working on drive lines this quater. On the college web site they say that there is 40% off labor if it is related to the work being performed.

If that isn't a good plan then I'll try it myself. I found a pretty good write up at this site.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/
 






i hope the college thing works out for you.

that would probly be the cheapest way to go.
 






I've been looking at those Cragers and the price sounds good to me. My question is what would be better for street/trail use. I'm looking at the 33x12.5 BFG AT for the tire. Whould a 15x8 or 15x10 wheel be better?

Or does it not make that big of a difference?
 






8" looks better and you have much less of a chance of popping a bead. Check out the 33x10.50s too, they get down and dig and are $30 a tire cheaper, I love my 33x10.50 BFGs.
 






Just heard back from the local college. They don't do aftermarket upgrades. So this means I will have to put together another shopping list for the front and rear differential gear upgrade to 4.56.

I think I'm going to go with the Yukon gears and the Timken master rebuild kit. Then throw in the Aussie autolocker in the rear for fun.

I see that summit racing has these parts but I believe their Richmond gears. Are these any better or worse the Yukon? Randy's ring and pinion were going to use Yukon if I took it to them to install.

Now I just need to get the right part numbers and away I go.

I'll throw my shopping list up here before I order too. I'd hate to get the wrong stuff. I'll pull the Axle codes off tommorow for reference. I'll report back.:salute:
 



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Update.

Just got the brake pads and hardware in from Rockauto today. MAN!! they have some good prices. That and there warehouse is local, so fast shipping. I'll be doing the brakes this weekend. Might even tackel the head gaskets, but we'll see.

I also ordered the Yukon gear sets from Ericautopart over at Automotive Parts Unlimited. Good price and fast service. They should be arriving anytime now.

Also ordered the Cragar soft 8's from summit today.

Now after all that I'm considering the Tire size that I want to throw on there.
Either 32x11.5x15 or the 33x12.5x15 BFG. I don't want to do to much trimming but I can if need be. I see that member Pughman has the same set up as me and it looks pretty good with the 32's. But if I can fit the 33's with out to much trouble, I go that route.

What do you guys think?
 






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