Grandma's 91 X. From Stock To Rock! | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Grandma's 91 X. From Stock To Rock!

Great progress!

Over in the PNW Regional section, they are starting to plan for a trail run in the Spring...

Ryan
 



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Consider the 33x10.50 BFGs, I love mine.
 






I don't know if they're still available or not, but I had Kuhmo M/T's on my Explorer, and I liked them even better than the BFG M/T's I had on my previous truck. I though they had better offroad traction, especially on slippery rocks.
 






Scott..

There are a BUNCH of us guys getting together for a Trail Run @ Tahuya on Feb. 21.

AND

Have you seen that lifted White 1st Gen in town? I saw it for the first time last week...It looks nice!

Ryan
 






Well here's my update and plan. I have the 3" BL and 33" on right now. Pics will be soon to follow.

This weekend I plan on doing the 2" Skyjacker coils and AAL in the rear. Then take it in and have it Aligned.

Once that is all said and done. I'd like to start on the rear Diff. I recieved the Yukon gears for front and rear last week. If all goes well I should have the 4.56's in the rear done by the end of this weekend.

The down side is that I don't know how long it will take until I can get to the front gears. Which I would assume will be more difficult due to the IFS.

Or I can just say hell with it and wait until after the 21st to do them both.;)
 






This isn't the greatest Picture but it's a start. I currently have the rear axle out for regearing.
Here is the thread if you know how to check patterns :)
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237421

Stock:
IMG_0372-1.jpg


New:
IMG_18371.jpg
 












The rear gears are finally in. (4.56 Yukon) Did a few test drives and everything seems to be ok. Nice and quite. or atleast until it explodes.

Now for the front.

Have a question about the front though. Is it possible to remove the axles, drive shaft, and differential and still be able to drive it around? This would be like having 2WD until I get it back in right? Even if I accidently hit the 4X4 button, it wouldn't do anything?

It snowed here today and it would not be fun trying to drive my motorcycle to work in it. This is why I'm asking. It will take me a few days to get it done and back together. But in the mean time, I'd like to be able to drive it.

Any thoughts on this or has anybody attemped it before?
 






Without the front axles in there, there isn't any of the 'double fail-safes' in place to make sure the front brakes and wheels don't fall off.

If you REALLY wanted to do that, you COULD remove the outer ends of the front axles, put them in place, put everything back in order, and drive around like that for a bit. It's been done on AWD 2nd Gens. BUT the 1st Gen is WAY harder to do that with.

So it's either 3x as much work to do what you are thinking....OR just have the X down for a bit, and do it the one (or 3) time.

Ryan
 






If you installed manual hubs just make sure those are in the unlocked position. If they are, you will be fine. No sense in removing the axle shafts as Spdrcr pointed out that you would potentially cause a safety issue by not retaining your spindle nuts if they were to loosen up.
 






You could pull the dash trim and unplug the 4x4 switch if you wanted to be double safe.
 






Without the front axles in there, there isn't any of the 'double fail-safes' in place to make sure the front brakes and wheels don't fall off.

If you REALLY wanted to do that, you COULD remove the outer ends of the front axles, put them in place, put everything back in order, and drive around like that for a bit. It's been done on AWD 2nd Gens. BUT the 1st Gen is WAY harder to do that with.

So it's either 3x as much work to do what you are thinking....OR just have the X down for a bit, and do it the one (or 3) time.

Ryan

This is only an issue on the 2nd-gen SLA IFS trucks. TTB trucks have their own spindle & bearing setup, so no problem there.

Just be sure to stuff some rags in the back of the spindles so no crud gets in there and finds it's way to your wheel bearings.
 






The C-clip, and axle spacer/splined washer are mounted on the axle. In case the hub nuts come undone, they are your LAST LINE of defense against the wheel/brake assembly from just falling off the spindle.

It has happened.

Ryan
 






4x4junkie and Spdrcer34, Those are the exact thoughts that I had.

All I would have to do is pull the C-clip on the axle along with the spline washer and pull it out.

The down side to this is that my last fail safe is gone. If I remove the C-clip and Spline washer, the onlything holding it on there is the Warn Spindle nuts and locking ring.

Now, To do it or not? That is the question.

Spdrcer34: Watch for me on the local news. "Local idiot's 33" MT wheel falls off and causes a 20 car pile up."
 






If it's just a matter of accidently pushing the 4x4 button, then don't go through the trouble. I believe you could pull a fuse for the shift motor. And again, if you had manual hubs unlocked, even if it was in 4x4 it would not do any damage.
 






No, The main reason I am interested in doing this is so that I can regear my front differential without being pressured about getting it back together so fast. This is a daily driver and very inconvenient when it is down. I only commute about 5 miles to work each day.

I just want to be able to remove the front differential and still drive it around without it. Then in a week or so, put it back in when I know I have the perfect pattern on the gears.

Steps:
1. Remove the c-clip and spline washer on the end of the axle shafts. This should be fine because the rotor is retained withthe Warn spindle hub nuts and lock washer kit.
2. Then remove the front drive shaft from the transfer case and differential.
3.Then just pull the front differential off.
4.Plug the spindle holes where the axle shafts came out so dirt can't get in.

I'm not going to even worry about the 4x4 button. Without the front drive shaft in, it can't do anything anyways. Right?
 






The C-clip, and axle spacer/splined washer are mounted on the axle. In case the hub nuts come undone, they are your LAST LINE of defense against the wheel/brake assembly from just falling off the spindle.

It has happened.

Ryan

Tighten the outer spindle nut down good and they shouldn't ever come undone.

And yes, they DO need more than the book spec of 150 ft-lbs (and is why they often come loose). I always put 250ft-lbs on mine and have never had one come loose.
 






do you mean in-lbs?
 






Inner nut gets 15 inch-lbs. Outer nut gets 250 foot-lbs.

If you have auto hubs, then it's just 15 inch-lbs on the one nut and you stick the locking key in.
 



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mn my torque wrench only goes to 120
 






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