Groans when turning right

[2004mountaineers]

Vehicle makes a low-pitching groaning sound when curving right at speed such as a rightward curve in the interstate or a right-curving off-ramp. It does not seem to do that when curving left. The previous owner removed the front drive-shaft. (The vehicle pulls a little to the right when trying to go straight.) (Btw, I checked/adjusted the toe-in so that it is in spec now; so that was not the problem.)
Any advice?
2004 Mercury Mountaineer, v6, 4liter, awd, not flex-fuel.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Vehicle makes a low-pitching groaning sound when curving right at speed such as a rightward curve in the interstate or a right-curving off-ramp. It does not seem to do that when curving left. The previous owner removed the front drive-shaft. (The vehicle pulls a little to the right when trying to go straight.) (Btw, I checked/adjusted the toe-in so that it is in spec now; so that was not the problem.)
Any advice?
2004 Mercury Mountaineer, v6, 4liter, awd, not flex-fuel.

first thought is wheel bearing.

 

[Turdle]

Title edited. Keep em short, explain in thread.

I agree with above. The front hub assembly is probably due for replacement on both sides.

 

[2004mountaineers]

Getting the old bearings off looks like it could be a beast:

 

[Turdle]

Pretty simple, unless you run into other problems

 

[J_C]

Getting the old bearings off looks like it could be a beast:

There are a few steps to it, but it's pretty straightforward, especially having a video to reference.

I glanced at the video, the axle nut size should be 30mm. He seemed to have more than average rust, may not be nearly as difficult as the video makes it seem. If your axle nut is anywhere near as rusted as the one in the video, replace it. Some (including Ford) state to replace this nut either way, but others have had no issue reusing it if in good condition.

Also you do not need some kind of chain setup like used in the video, can break the axle nut loose with the wheel on the ground, and putting it back on, get it snug and then do final torque to spec back on the ground, with the wheel back on of course.

 

[1.8TTony]

first thought is wheel bearing.

......first thought is wheel bearing on driver's side of vehicle because turning right will load weight on driver's side wheel bearings.

 

[2004mountaineers]

......first thought is wheel bearing on driver's side of vehicle because turning right will load weight on driver's side wheel bearings.

Is it viable to just replace the bearing itself for $10bucks ?

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/motorcraft/bearings---seals/hub-assemblies/wheel-bearing/dce6c2adc13a/motorcraft-wheel-bearing/mot0/brg1/v/a/17986/automotive-suv-2004-mercury-mountaineer?q=wheel+bearing&pos=0

 

[1.8TTony]

Is it viable to just replace the bearing itself for $10bucks ?

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/motorcraft/bearings---seals/hub-assemblies/wheel-bearing/dce6c2adc13a/motorcraft-wheel-bearing/mot0/brg1/v/a/17986/automotive-suv-2004-mercury-mountaineer?q=wheel+bearing&pos=0

In regards to the front bearing:

No.......the old front bearing will need to be pressed out of the hub and the new bearing pressed in......cost $50-$60 just to have a shop install the new bearing with their hydraulic press onto your hub.


You could buy a new hub pre assembled with new bearing already installed for around $85. This will also come with a new ABS wheel speed sensor.

Another option (if you're doing the work yourself and are trying to save as much $$$ as possible) would be to locate a good hub/bearing at a local "pull it yourself" salvage yard for around $20.

In regards to the rear bearing.......again, a shop would have to use their hydraulic press to remove the old bearing. And install the new one.......and yet again, the most cost effective way to get a good bearing for the back would be to purchase the hub and wheel bearing from a salvage yard.

Note: if you continue to drive your vehicle with a bad wheel bearing........you may be able to drive it like that for a year or more, but what's eventually going to happen is the wheel speed sensor is gonna come in contact with the tone ring on the axle shaft and destroy both......next thing ya know, you're gonna end up having to buy a new axle shaft as well as the wheel bearing with hub & bearing.