Harmonic Balancer Vibration Damper Installation

[cjryan]

So I've done lots of searching and I haven't found anything useful.

2000 4.0 OHV

I had stripped crankshaft threads, cleaned the threads, now I'm attempting to install the new damper. If you would like to comment on the stripped threads please do so here in my Explorer 911 thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=287081
My old one would slip on and off by hand no problem. I had to replace the old one and the new one is much more difficult to put on. I purchased a universal harmonic balancer installer but it didn't work. I think the kit is meant to work with more "flat" style dampers. Mine is relatively "hollow." I tried the three main consumer auto parts stores around me and they all have the same universal kit. I found a ford specific installation tool online for my engine but the website wants $130 for it, more than I paid for my damper, and I can't return it.

I've heard of people baking or boiling the damper so it expands, then putting it on the damper. I'm cautious to do this because of the rubber ring in the center. Although the engine bay gets to near 200 degrees so maybe this wouldn't hurt anything. And yes, I've thought of using the damper bolt to pull it on but my threads aren't perfect and I don't want to mess them up anymore.

I've been turning the damper clockwise and it's been seating more and more each time. I think it's been wearing a very small of material off each time because it's easier to take on and off each time. Problem is, once I get to the key, I won't be able to turn it anymore and I'll have to use the bolt to pull it on, which will require a lot of force.

I even called the ford stealership and they wanted $200 to install the damper. I asked him how long for labor and he said two hours. Yea right!@#!$
I know someone else on here has had to install a new damper. How did you do it? I start school next Monday and I need to get this thing back together ASAP.

Thanks in advance

Update:
I found a three foot threaded rod at a local store that's the right size. I'm going to buy this and attempt to use the metal "peace sign" bracket from the damper removal tool in conjunction with the threaded rod to install tonight. Any input is still welcomed.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Drive it on

If you install the balancer by just tightening the bolt there will be a lot of stress on the threads in the crankshaft. I would find an appropriate sized socket and drive it on with my 4 lb hand sledge as shown below.

Then the bolt just prevents the balancer from loosening. Unfortunately, if you still have the radiator in place there will not be much room to swing a hammer. Make sure that the insert for the keyway on the crank has not slipped aft and raised preventing the balancer from being installed.

 

[cjryan]

Got it on!!

So I ended up "making" my own installation tool. If you need to install your damper, and it won't go on by hand, this is what I'd recommend:

Go to your nearest specialty hardware store and find a threaded rod same size as your crankshaft bolt (mine was 12mm x 1.5). Also get a matching nut that fits on the rod. Cut the rod to 8 inches. Put your new (or old) damper on the crank snout and line up the key. Insert the threaded rod into the crankshaft threads. Either fabricate a metal plate that will fit around the outside of the damper or use the metal "peace sign" bracket that comes with most universal harmonic balancer puller kits. Place a couple washers on the outside of the metal bracket and then put on the nut. I had a thrust bearing from the universal harmonic balancer installation tool that didn't work, but I used the bearing in between the bracket and the washers to alleviate the pressure.

Now, tighten the nut with an adjustable wrench slowly, making sure you see the damper moves toward the block if you turn. If it becomes harder to tighten the nut and you can't see the damper moving, back off the nut and turn the damper slightly until it is lined up with the key. This is a bit or trial and error, take your time. Once your sure the key way is lined up, tighten that sucker up. Once the damper meets the face of the block and it doesn't move anymore, remove the installation tool assembly. Insert the crankshaft bolt with your favorite thread locker and torque to spec. I had to hold the damper with a strap wrench to prevent the motor from turning over. Reinstall fan, fan shroud, serpentine belt, and intake tube. Now start 'er up!

I didn't want to use the hammer method on my brand new $90 damper. Also, there's not enough room with the radiator in there. I also didn't want to use the crankshaft bolt because of the nature of my threads. I wouldn't suggest this even if your threads were perfect because the bolt can't be inserted all the way into threads before pressure is applied. Therefore, all pressure is dispersed on your highly valuable crankshaft threads (trust me on this one . The method I outlined above is the most professional and safest way to install a damper. I even asked a Ford mechanic if there was an installation tool, and he told me to use the crank bolt. I'm not sure how many dampers he'd installed but, if you want to do it the safe way, use a threaded rod.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Clever solution!

I strongly support improvised tools and yours is a clever one. Good job!

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Thanks for the tip on using the threaded rod and nut.

This has to be the most stress-free technique for installing
the damper...