headlight head light switch knob turns and turns

[willy2]

The headlight switch has started to overrotate - still allows turning on and off (for now), but is rotated way out of position (pointed to 8'o'clock instead of between 12 and 2). There is a bit of springiness on the rotate (possibly like I'm twisting a wire bundle).

I found threads on how to replace: 1) the headlight switch or 2) the headlight switch knob, but not sure which to start with, any idea?

I'm not super confident going through either procedure, hoping to start on the right path!

 

[J_C]

The knob, you should just be able to pull off and see if it's shredded, which I doubt. It's probably either the switch internally (least likely), or the plastic switch tabs that mount to the panel, or plastic studs on the panel itself.

You're going to have to pull the panel off to see which is the problem.

Here's a video which shows steps to get the panel off, and an example of a fault where the panel studs broke off and one of the alternatives to fix it (drilling holes plus screws). A different alternative IF your studs are broken is to make a dam out of tape and fill the area with epoxy then drill an undersized hole in that (or glue the broken off piece back on before filling around it with epoxy), to create a new area to screw into, or of course buy a new panel or used pull from a junkyard.



Another one with better lighting

 

[RickOTR]

The tabs where the two screws mount the light switch have broken off necessitating replacing the instrument panel. A redneck solution is to take some 3m double side sticky tape and cut a small hole over the switch and mount it to the panel. There are two tabs that will hold it in place so it won't turn. Now may also be a good time to replace the light bulb with an LED to avoid taking it all apart again.

 

[willy2]

The tabs where the two screws mount the light switch have broken off necessitating replacing the instrument panel. A redneck solution is to take some 3m double side sticky tape and cut a small hole over the switch and mount it to the panel. There are two tabs that will hold it in place so it won't turn. Now may also be a good time to replace the light bulb with an LED to avoid taking it all apart again.

Good idea, thank-you, the lamp for the fuel gauge is actually already burnt out...

 

[J_C]

... or just get regular bulbs, considering they lasted over 20 years.
Some of the generic LED bulbs are a dodgy design that may not last nearly that long, despite claims to the contrary. They save money using smaller LED dies then drive them hard to make up the light output difference.

 

[RickOTR]

Those regular light bulbs are $10 a piece and are only sold in packs of 10. I have an LED in mine that has lasted 11 years.

 

[J_C]

^ ?? Aren't they a # 194, which you can get for about $1 each in a 10 pack from Amazon, or 14+ cents each from Rock Auto?

1998 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 SOHC Instrument Panel Light Bulb | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

Another complaint I've read about "the LED bulbs" (which isn't a rule since design can vary, but won't much in this small form factor) is they are too directional, don't diffuse the light as much.

 

[koda2000]

Unless you enjoy R&R 'ing you instrument cluster to change light bulbs and wish to stay with the #194 bulbs, rather than LED's, don't use cheap #194 bulbs. Instead pay-up and install the #194LL bulbs (LL stands for long life). Walmart sells the 2-pk for around $5, still pricey, but not $5 apiece pricey. I made this mistake once and several of the cheap bulbs didn't last a year.

 

[RickOTR]

Here ya go......

 

[willy2]

Unless you enjoy R&R 'ing you instrument cluster to change light bulbs and wish to stay with the #194 bulbs, rather than LED's, don't use cheap #194 bulbs. Instead pay-up and install the #194LL bulbs (LL stands for long life). Walmart sells the 2-pk for around $5, still pricey, but not $5 apiece pricey. I made this mistake once and several of the cheap bulbs didn't last a year.

Thank-you. Since I certainly do not enjoy R&R'ing my instrument cluster (thanks for asking though ) I had just bought a set of the LED 194s, and the LED 37s, was planning on replacing them all at once to hopefully be done with it. I think what you (and J_C) are saying is that you feel the 194LL are significantly less risky (more reliable) even than the LED's?

 

[willy2]

Here ya go......

Thank-you Rick. Those look good.

 

[J_C]

Human aesthetics aside, the goal should not be to increase the cold bluish-white light directed at your eyes during night driving. That color temperature has a direct impact on the ability to see while driving at night.

Similarly the brightness of either LED or incan has the same issue, and if you don't run either type at full brightness, you'll substantially increase their lifespan whether they are "long life" bulbs or not, though poorly designed (overdriven for their build quality) LED bulbs are particularly sensitive to overheating when ran at full output.

A typical long life bulb does not run the filament as hot, so it produces fewer lumens at any given voltage. This is pretty close to the same thing you would achieve by turning the brightness down a hair with the dial.

The major brand LED bulbs are built far better than the generics like the 194 you linked. Those look very similar to what I've ran in my outdoor landscape lights and they only last about a year before one of the LEDs (in series with the rest) starts to fail and then they start flickering. Granted those lights are on an average of maybe 3 hours per night so "some" people could go years on an ~1100hr lifespan, but in my landscape lights they are operating at only 12V, not 14V. I would have switched to using something else, but you wouldn't believe the crazy deal I got on a large quantity, so they are tolerable only because they are far easier (20 seconds) to swap out than a dash bulb is.

Make sure you test them before putting the dash back together since they are polarity sensitive.

The long life bulbs on Rock Auto are $3 for 10, less for 6. Granted if you're not ordering anything else from RA, shipping rounds that up to about $10.

More Information for PHILIPS 194LL

 

[willy2]

Thanks J_C. Found the Philips 194LL locally on the shelf for about $1/ea in packs of 2, so cancelled the LEDs and just did that as you suggested. They had the Philips 194 LED there too, but at more than 10x the price didn't go for that. The remainder of 6@194LL and 8@37LL will arrive Monday, then should be good to go! Thanks again. This forum is one of the most helpful I have ever joined.

 

[RickOTR]

Here's my LED headlight switch. Installed in 2009 and has never been replaced.

 

[donalds]

Here's my LED headlight switch. Installed in 2009 and has never been replaced.

The black on blue gauge cluster. Minty

 

[RickOTR]

The black on blue gauge cluster. Minty

Cluster is Graphite Grey

 

[donalds]

Cluster is Graphite Grey

Next time I'll keep my compliments To myself

I have the same dash and it looks black to me

 

[RickOTR]

Next time I'll keep my compliments To myself

I have the same dash and it looks black to me

Ford changed the color of the cluster in 99 so your's is what Ford calls Dark Graphite Grey that's why it looks black. In 97 it was Medium Graphite Grey. No pun intended

 

[donalds]

Dark Graphite Grey

Looks black to me but your correct Ford and their shenanigans