Help! Can't install amp for sub

[ACBlessing]

Hi all, I'm having a hard time installing my amp to my 'oo Mach sub in the back. Two problems:

1. Using the high level ouptut from the stock sub amp, I can patch in to my new amp BUT I want to use the line input of the stock sub amplifier but it seems to have a third wire Ford labelled "Subwoofer High Audio Mute" and another wire that is "Hot at all times" from Ford. How the heck does the stock amp switch on if it's always powered???

and

2. I cannot find a remote turn-on wire to turn my aftermarket amp on as everything, including the power antenna lead is powered at all times (which is how Fod designed it).

All I want to do is run an aftermarket amp to my new sub, using the stock line-out sub wires, AND (I know this is asking for a lot) I want the amp to turn on with the stock stereo, not stay on 24-7

If this sounds familiar to anyone, I'm beggin for help!

Thanks all, -AC

 

[ACBlessing]

Anybody....?

 

[leenjen]

do you have an aftermarket head unit. if not, i suggest getting one. it will end all your troubles.

your aftermarket amp does need a power wire connected directly to the battery. another wire should be grounded to the chassis. and one more coming from the head units amp or power antenna lead. that is what switches it on and off.

the amp will only be on when the head unit is on even though the positive is hot.

 

[leenjen]

almost forgot: RCA cables will give a much better transmission than high level. rca's provide a cleaner and stronger signal.
that means better sound quality, less distortion, and higher volumes.

 

[JTang]

If the amp is working without the use of those other wires, then why not just add a relay to turn on the new amp. Just tap off the head unit's remote line lead and then splice it to a relay and use the relay to turn the new amp on or off. It might be a tiny bit more work just doing a little wiring, but then you can at least be sure what's going on, and not worry about those other wires.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help,

Jon

 

[ACBlessing]

Thank you Jon and LeenJen for your responses. Leenjen, I understand the workings of aftermarket stuff (i.e. RCA low-level inputs, how to wire, etc.) and Jon, I know I could tap into something that turns hot when the key is on too but your idea of splicing into the remote line lead is pretty good.

But....

I'm trying to tap into the stock low-level lead to the stock sub amp so I can get rid of it. The only way it works now is to leave the stock sub amp in place and use the high level leads (to the sub) from it...which sucks. Getting back to my original post...unlike all aftermarket stuff, there is no wire that trips the sub on when the radio comes on...there IS a wire there but it's always hot (that's the way Ford designed it).

I appreciate your help very much. I'm just thinking there HAS to be someone else on here that's tried putting an aftermarket amp/sub to their stock head unit. :-(


Thank you again...AC

 

[leenjen]

sorry i couldn't help.
my 92 had a factory amp but not a sub, so i dont know what the connections are. i'm sure somebody with a newer explorer can tell you. good luck

 

[JTang]

I recall a big arguement about this on a car audio newsgroup. One group argued your findings, while another group said this was not the case, specifically, because the remote line lead uses a nonstandard 5 volt signal to turn on accessories, hence the low voltage triggers available at car audio shops.

Perhaps one of the following links can help you:

Dead Link Removed

Dead Link Removed

I can't think of how Ford could have an always hot remote line, especially when most people put aftermarket head units in all the time... Perhaps take a quick trip to a car audio electronics store, and look at the back of a bag for our car stereo head unit harnesses, and see which color wire corresponds to the remote line lead, remember the position, and find which one it is for factory. Sorry, all I can think of.

Good luck,

Jon

 

[ACBlessing]

Thank you JTANG for the links and advice. I have checked out the link on bypassing the factory amp previously and unfortunately it didn't pertain to my model and as per the other link, there were some nifty photos of a Mountaineer but no detailed wiring info.

I can't believe it's this difficult to integrate an aftermarket amp into a stock system...

Anyway, about that audio discussion group, could you please send me a link to it?

-AC