Help on 2wd Hub Assembly/ Bearing

[frankcal]

if no ones said it yet - always install the new races with new bearings. put the new races in the freezer for a few hours before installing them. it makes them easier to install. if you have a torch, you can also warm the hubs. you'll need 2 new cotter pins of the appropriate diameter (don't reuse your old ones). buy an assortment at AutoZone, or wherever, and you'll have a 10 year supply. they're cheap. I don't recall if anyone gave you instructions on greasing the new bearings before installation, but I like to put a glop of grease in the palm of my hand and drag the bearing through at a 45 degree angle until I see the grease get pushed out the other side. also put extra grease in the hub as it flows once it gets warm. when you tighten the axle nut, the torque (or preload) is very important. I tighten them down snug at first (to squeeze the excess grease out from between the bearing and the race) then spin the hub by hand, loosen the nut and just let the weight of the wrench tighten the nut + a tiny tweak. if you have to move the nut to get the cotter pin hole to line up, loosen the nut a hair it rather than tightening it. you can use an inch-pound torque wrench if you have one available, but unless you know it's correctly calibrated, I'd just rather do it by feel (this method has never let me down yet). also put a dab of grease in the inside lip of the seal, before installing the rotor on the axle, so it doesn't run dry at first.

I've been rereading the how to thread make by jstcruz on how to do em so i kinda have it memorized. But thanks for the tip on putting the races in the freezer. I had done that before when doing my ball joints and it worked like a charm so im expecting the same on this. Started getting parts in the mail so probably will be done early next week.

So when torquing them down they go to 35ft lbs at first rotated then backed off half a turn and just slightly tightened down? And is that it? I don't have an inch pound torque so i just want to make sure i get it right.

 

[frankcal]

keep in mind that in putting in your new races, they are not fully seated until they are below the surface surrounding area. So you need something of the same diameter of the race to tap/pound it in. I video I saw on YouTube suggests a huge socket [if you have one]. an old wise worker at a local auto part store suggested using the old race - upside down. that's a great idea [that i used successfully recently] but it was a challenge for me to seat the new race all the way down without also getting the old race party seated too! I think a huge socket that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the race works much easier. or rent the tools [race installer] from an auto zone.

Thank you for that tip, I actually didnt know that it had to be seated below the surface so that is very very helpful. Is there a lip where they go into or some type of indentation that i should be seeing or feeling when putting the races on? I will definitely try using the old race or a slightly smaller size socket to get them in though. I had read to seat them with a block then tap them in around the edge going around, but this seems a lot better to get it seated evenly.

 

[frankcal]

Seems like you pretty much have everything you need, and those are the same part #s Timken lists for my 97, so I'm guessing that's right.

Be careful using the punch to drive the old seals/races out. If you gouge the seating surface you can cause some issues. Also, be careful not to damage the rubber seal when installing it or sliding the rotor back on. I always put just a little grease on my finger and wipe down the seal before the rotor goes on.

Thanks for the tips I will take them into account when doing them to be really careful and take my time.

Any other tips? I really want to get this done right the first time and would want to know anything and everything about it even if it may seem like common sense. So far ive been getting a lot of great tips and advice

 

[jimbalaya]

seating the races

Thank you for that tip, I actually didnt know that it had to be seated below the surface so that is very very helpful. Is there a lip where they go into or some type of indentation that i should be seeing or feeling when putting the races on? I will definitely try using the old race or a slightly smaller size socket to get them in though. I had read to seat them with a block then tap them in around the edge going around, but this seems a lot better to get it seated evenly.

You will know when you hit bottom seating the races, because you will feel the 'kickback' in the hammer; there is 'give' in the hammering until the race is fully seated. And regarding using the [wood] block to start the seating, place a clean rag or towel between the race and the block so that you ensure no wood splinters end up in the races. (If i had to do it again, i would just borrow the race seating tools from Autozone, if you have one nearby.)

 

[frankcal]

thanks for that, makes sense about the splinters. I could just imagine how it would be if splinters got mixed up with the grease. I will look into autozone though and check to see if they have a loaner

 

[frankcal]

So I just finished doing both front sides, all in all took me about 3 1/2 hours. What took me the longest was getting the old races out. They weren't budging with a hammer and punch. So I did it with the handle from the jack for the outer bearing and a peace of metal tubing I had for the inner set. I didn't use the bearing race and seal set tool I just used the old bearings to set them in and worked well. Took it for a drive and was feeling some slop in the braking so wet back home and tightened the spindle nut a tad more and all was well.

Thank you everyone for all your help, all the little tips I got here really helped in findin different solutions to questions or issues that arose. The new bearings with new rancho rs5374 make the drive a lot more smoother. Thanks everyone.