Help SEVERELY needed on a few issues.

[kari_safari]

Yeah. I wish I knew more about the history of the vehicle, but I got it as a Christmas present so I really don't know much at all about it. The guy left me all sorts of interesting things in there.

I figure that if I can get caught up, everything will be fine. It's just getting caught up that's presenting some difficulties.

 

[Nocturnall]

Most used cars are like that, I feel bad for the poor guy/girl that get's my vehicle when I trade it in. As a general rule I think everyone on here changes all fluids, plugs, wires, filters when they buy something used, at least I do. Then you get into the other stuff that's wrong or always seems to die shortly after getting the vehicle. Unless you have a warrenty on it from a dealer then it dies 2 days after the warrenty is up. Just keep pluggin away, you'll eventually get on top of it.

 

[kari_safari]

Thanks! I'm going to make sure I do what I can to fix her up.

So, this morning, I went out to go to the gym and I was going to take my dad's car, but I figured I'd try mine to see if anything was different. Not only did she start RIGHT up (it felt like I unlocked the steering wheel, too, which was weird because I never locked it), but the key came out and it did it again when I tried it. I took her to the gym and since then, everything has been fine. I still want to get the new ignition lock cylinder, though, because I can't afford two random days of my key being stuck and of it not starting.

My dad still insists that its not the ignition lock cylinder. But it has to be, right? What else could it even POSSIBLY be?

 

[briwayjones]

No, I never had a problem with the key in the ignition, only the locks on the doors.

If the key works in the ignition but not in the doors it may not be the key. The lock linkage in the middle second gens is not designed well and will bind up solid unless they are oiled really well. Try spraying some WD-40 in the locks and wiggle them around. If it's been a while since it's been done it might take a lot of wiggling and a good bit of oil to get them to free up.

 

[kari_safari]

Thanks a lot! I'm definitely going to have to try that. I just had a new CD player thing put in a few days ago and I'm definitely going to need my doors to lock. Does the wiring under the dash (under the steering column and all that on the drivers side) have a lot to do with my door locks? That's the area that the previous owner really screwed with a lot and I'm not sure if that could have something to do with it electrically if it's not something that the WD40 can fix.

I'm going to try the WD40 later on today and see what happens.

 

[briwayjones]

Oh that's right you mentioned an electrical problem. So the electric locks won't unlock the doors either? Generally if the key linkage is bound up they will still lock and unlock electrically. And if there is an electrical problem you would still be able to unlock it with a key. Unless you have an electrical problem and the linkage is bound up. You can push the lock down with your finger right? And if you pull the door handle does it unlock and open the door?

 

[GeorgeR]

DON"T put any oil or wd40 or that type of stuff in any lock! First, have the boyfriend buff the key well on a wire wheel (brass is best) if you don't have access to brass use a regular wire wheel, just don't get heavy handed with it. Then get some powdered graphite from the local hardware store and put it in a container such as a 35mm film can, then dip the key several times in it and then insert the key in the lock and or ignition in and out several times, recoating the key each time. Do this in both the door and ignition. You can also blow the graphite into the lock mechanism through the key slot if you get the graphite in a tube with an applicator tip on it.Then insert and remove the key a number of times, but dip it in the graphite anyway. If this doesn't cure the lock problem, then you may need to take the key and truck to a good auto lock smith and let him at it. I have seen many locks ruined by putting various fluid type stuff in them especially auto locks. (I am a locksmith)

 

[Gator Jeff]

Kari,

Just wanted to say "stick with it". That's awesome that you are determined to get your truck running right and willing to do the stuff yourself. The Gen 2 Explorers (like yours) are really easy to work on and once you get the quirks figured out, you'll have it running great. You're definitely in the right place to get all the info you need.

Watch out though, by the time you graduate and can afford a new car, you'll probably want to keep your Explorer as a fun truck. You'll have put too much love and effort into it to let it rot on a used car lot. Then you can lift and go wheeling or lower it and show it. There are a lot of people here at Explorer Central who have done one or the other (some both!) and you'll have plenty of support whatever direction you go.

Good luck with everything!

 

[nolimitssjca]

I asked my local locksmith what the cost was to replace and rekey the ignition. The answer was $150 if they come to it and $75 if I take the cylinder to them.

Just thought I would give some food for thought.

 

[kari_safari]

Thank you! That really helps a lot. I'm just not sure what to get to first. My boyfriend said he'd replace the ignition lock cylinder (the part costs 20 bucks at the local Advanced Auto Parts), but the door locks are a gigantic concern along with (most prominantly) the transmission.

I've just got a looooot to do. It's just the question of what first, especially considering the tight funds and whatnot.

 

[kari_safari]

From a locksmith himself! Well, I think I'll go with that, then. The boyfriend is a machinist, he owns his own shop, so he's got tons of that sort of thing laying around. I've been linking him to this thread so he can see what people are saying to do and I'll definitely have to point out what you said specifically. Thanks SO much for replying here!

 

[kari_safari]

Thanks a lot, Gator! And yeah, I plan on keeping her forever (or at least as long as I can), I'm already pretty attached. I could've saved up for something cheaper but I would've love it nearly as much! I bought myself the manual and everything, so I hope I'll learn something. If not, I have a few of vehicle-savvy people around me that just need to brush up on their Explorer knowledge. This site is REALLY doing wonders for me! The support here is outstanding. I want to post a picture of her up one day! She's cute.

 

[kari_safari]

I have to pull up on the little sticky thing from the inside to get it to unlock, it won't do it automatically.

And she did a new trick today! She made this funny strange-pitched whirr from what SOUNDED like the right front wheel or around it or something. I didn't do anything funny to make it happen, it just sorta did, and then it just stopped as suddenly as it started without me doing anything. I was doing a lot of reverse-drive around that time though, could it have been the transmission? I've never heard that noise before..

 

[CDW6212R]

I met a locksmith, his price was about $25 for the appointment in a parking lot, and he R&R'd the tumblers of three lock cylinders, for $20 more. Call around for a better price.

Kari, how does your ignition key work now, and before the problem? Your father might be correct, it does rarely happen that if the steering wheel is not free to move when the key is removed, the key will not turn properly when you use it again. The pressure from a steering wheel trying to spin in either direction because of how the vehicle is setting, that does bind up the ignition key/cylinder. To free it up you just need to know which way the steering wheel wants to turn, and turn it back the other way slightly, to relive pressure from the ignition cylinder.

Usually when a lock cylinder goes, it goes very quickly, it may cause trouble for a short while, and then it eats the key, will not let go of it.

Your father I'm sure just does not want more problems caused by another poor starter/alarm installation. If done correctly no harm should occur. I'd be far more worried about the existing electrical issues, than a new alarm install.

Do work with your keys in all of the locks, they need exercise, and do have at least three keys total. If made properly a copied key should be as perfect as the original. I understand that some keying machines just copy the old key, you do not want that kind of key service. My Ford parts man sometimes does keys for me at no charge.

At Ford when they make a new key they note what the individual key levels are, and set their key machine to those individual marks. The used key is not copied, a new key is made by measuring the levels of the key teeth. I think they can be from 1-5 or so. The new keys are like any combination, there can be a code used to describe each key, like 3/2/5/1/3/4/2, etc. Get your keys cut by a Ford Parts Dept.

Work on that transmission soon, if you have something turning up in the fluid. If it's not the V8 trans, then there is a certain need for a special valve body kit to improve it. Ford has several different upgrade kits made for each individual year model, a kit and gasket/plate etc.

I would recommend skipping the various Ford upgrades(you have to be very careful to get the correct one for your model of trans), and simply buy the TransGo valve body kit. Their kits are much better, they applies to every single model of the A4LD, or the 5R55E. You don't need to figure out which kit part numbers to research/buy. Just confirm which trans that you have, and take that information to any supplier of transmission parts. They will have the kit, and the Lubegard, and the EPC solenoid, Sonnax boost valve, gaskets, filter, ans a ATSG tech manual for the trans. Good luck,

 

[GeorgeR]

Why don't you try this; #1 try the graphite application as I suggested earlier
If that seems to help then don't replace the ignition yet.
#2 If the door locks are still hanging up after the graphite, raise the window in the driver door, carefully remove the panel that has the arm rest and switches. You won't be able to see everything, but you should be able to see the door lock assembly and the related linkage. Trace the linkage to see if you can find a spot where it's hanging up or rubbing or may be bent etc. Work slowly and carefully and don't bend or break anything! There is a spring clip that holds the door lock cylinder in place. Hopefully you won't have to remove it, but at least you will know where it is. You may also notice that previous owner left some wires dangling. You should get a Haynes manual for your truck. It costs about 20 bucks but has wiring diagrams etc if you need them. BTW Door lock cylinders run in excess of $100. So try the graphite and interference checks first. With the door panel removed you should be able to see where the hangup if any is. You may have to remove the door lock to clear it but just remember how it comes out so that you can put it back the same way. Another BTW my '96 has a single key for ignition and doors and lift gate. I assume that is the same for yours. If you change any of them you will either have to have the cylinders rekeyed or carry a different key for each lock that you change. If I were you I would backward engineer the anti theft system and remove the damned thing until I got everything else fixed if You cant find the problem.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, the lock cylinders are not cheap new anymore, I paid about $70 for one 1999 door cylinder. I needed the rear hatch also from a 95-97 model, those are obsolete now, I got one from a yard for about $10.

It's good to find sources for parts at a fair price. I agree that you shouldn't replace any key cylinders unless you really do have a bad one, and they can be rebuilt(replace the tumblers). It sounds more like the truck needs some work on the door lock wiring/switches, or the actuators themselves. Do any of the lock switches create any noise in any direction?

 

[kari_safari]

GeorgeR, I'm definitely going to take her down to the boyfriend's shop this weekend and have him do the graphite and see how that goes. If it doesn't work, then I'll try what you just suggested. Thanks A LOT!

 

[engera]

One thing I didn't see anyone comment on is the fact that if the shifter is not in park, the key/ignition switch will not rotate completely so the key cannot be removed. I just tried this on my 2000 Explorer by just shutting the vehicle off in gear and sure enough, the key could not be removed. As soon as I shifted it to park it could be rotated to the off position and the key comes out. You had mentioned that it seemed your shift linkage was binding between reverse and park so this would cause the ignition not to rotate to the off position. I would try messing with the linkage to make sure it isn't binding and can be properly shifted into park. I hope this helps.

 

[CDW6212R]

That is true, I just took for granted that her truck is like most, the indicator is what is off, and not the actuall shifter. The gear indicator has nothing ot do with what gear the transmission is in. The shifter under normal conditions should never become out of adjustment.

I'd thus ask, does the shifter lock into each gear/detent positively? Does it feel like it is each different selection?