Help wanting to fit 31-33s cheap without BL | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Help wanting to fit 31-33s cheap without BL

Mickus

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City, State
Iron mountain,mi
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 ford explorer XL
I have a 94 explorer XL and I want to find the cheapest way to get at least 33s under it. I've been told I can put 2 inch coil springs on the front and 2 inch blocks on the back but with how flimsy the suspension is I need another way that is in the $300-$500 range and will improve my handling....I am definately a novice mechanic and I'm of a younger generation so ignorance is for sure there lol.
 



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Your rear axle is spring under and 2" blocks will lower it. Do a search and you will find many different ways to get what you are looking for if you go with 33X10.5's.
 






I have a 94 explorer XL and I want to find the cheapest way to get at least 33s under it. I've been told I can put 2 inch coil springs on the front and 2 inch blocks on the back but with how flimsy the suspension is I need another way that is in the $300-$500 range and will improve my handling....I am definately a novice mechanic and I'm of a younger generation so ignorance is for sure there lol.

First off, welcome to the forum.

Second, in future please search first before asking questions that have been asked many times before. Just a friendly tip :)

Cheapest lift I know of to run 31" and maybe 32" tires is to use F-150 coil spacers in the front (junkyard, ~$10) and Warrior lift shackles in the rear (~$80). I have this particular setup on one of my Explorers and it is driven daily. No other parts will need to be changed as long as you don't go higher, though you might have to change the camber/caster alignment eccentrics. Most alignment shops have them in stock and will swap them out for a nominal fee. You WILL have to get an alignment after any lift. Otherwise you will either crash and burn and die in pain, or you'll wear out your new tires real fast.

Also, the stock Explorer suspension is NOT flimsy. It is tough as nails actually, as long as the bushings and shocks and ball joints are maintained (like any vehicle). If you have handling problems due to worn out bushings, worn out shocks, or worn ball joints, adding a lift will only make it handle WORSE. Additionally, the lift will put extra stress on your worn out old components and cause them to fail catastrophically (see crash, burn, die above).

If you want handling improvements, replace all the worn out parts on your front suspension, and replace the tired old front coil springs (new Moog springs are ~$80/pair). Replace the saggy rear left spring with a junkyard rear right, or at least swap the ones you have left to right. Install a set of good quality shocks. Not Gabriels or similar cheapos, which are poop even when new, but something like a full set of Monroe Reflex shocks for example. Don't forget steering components too, like tie rod ends. Don't even worry about lifting your truck yet if you want IMPROVEMENTS in your handling.

Hope this helps.

Again, welcome to the forum. We have nothing against the younger generation (I could be considered one of them) as long as you are willing to learn, take suggestions with the right attitude, read what other people take the time out of their lives to write, and most importantly, don't half-ass anything :D You only get one life, don't waste it.
 






You can do 33's without a b/l but you're going to have to trim a heck of alot of metal from around your wheel wells and it will look pretty sh*tty.....I would suggest coil spacers and shackles in the rear then trim what you need to. Unfortunately the first gen won't fit 33's with just coil spacers and shackles without some trimming in the front.
 






Coil spacers and shackles will let you fit 31s and maybe some 32s depending on your wheel offset and individual tire differences. I am running 31.6" tires with coil spacers and shackles, and only had to trim my rocker molding extensions slightly, but my wheel setup is unique and has 1.5" spacers. Even so it still rubs the inner fenders and shocks slightly in tight turns. Also my coils were replaced with new Moog units so with saggy factory coils it would likely rub a lot more.
 






I fit 31's on a 92 Explorer in the past just BFG A/T's with no lift, it just rubbed the driver radius arm at full lock.
 






31"x10.5" are a good fit with a smaller lift, about stock height to about 2" of lift.

Arco777 hit the nail on the head. I couldn't have said it better. Remember, always take care of your truck before you upgrade it, cause you'll feel pretty stupid if you just put on a shiny lift then it can't run.
 






see crash, burn, die above....lol :D

Keep in mind the gearing you have. If you have 3.27's 33's are going to suck for get up & go. You can find your axle code on the door jamb or on the label affixed to the rear diff housing. Google the code to see what gears you have. 31's with 3.27's also sucks but sucks a little less.
 






32s are a good fit for a two inch lift. The extra width helps a bit in the stick stuff.

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31's fit with no lift at all, on stock wheels, been there done that. If you are dead set on 33's, cheapest thing to do is shackles and coil spacers. My lift cost me nothing but time since I was given a set of coil spacers, and made my own shackles. Trimmed a small triangle from the bottom corner of my fender, trimmed less than an inch from the ends of my stock bumper, and I've run two different sets of 33's on 3 different sets of wheels and never had a problem, even flexing so much that i left marks on the body in the rear.
 












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