Help with timing chain parts for v6 SOHC 4.0L

[Fix4Dirt]

This is so interesting to learn about. Is there a write up about this? How can learn more?

Were do I get the mechanical tensioner from and what's the process of getting this to properly work in my engine?

4.0l Engine Timing Chain Tensioners, Replacement Schedule

Pretty sure I read somewhere FORD recommends replacing the upper tensioners on the SOHC engines at 90K miles Use only Ford parts...the others are JUNK!!!!! Interesting note here the POlaris Rzr (2014+) uses the same damn tensioner for the timing chain on the overhead cam, tick tick tick on cold...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[Addicted]

4.0l Engine Timing Chain Tensioners, Replacement Schedule

Pretty sure I read somewhere FORD recommends replacing the upper tensioners on the SOHC engines at 90K miles Use only Ford parts...the others are JUNK!!!!! Interesting note here the POlaris Rzr (2014+) uses the same damn tensioner for the timing chain on the overhead cam, tick tick tick on cold...

www.explorerforum.com

Thanks for posting that link.

I went over to the sparksracing site and did see a manual tensioner.

Manual Cam Chain Tensioner

Not even sure if this is the correct one, although I do have a bit more of a better understanding of this now. It looks like the trick is knowing how to get the tensionor adjusted manually on this.

 

[C420sailor]

Even with the rod, you’ll still have chain slap on start—just not as bad, or for as long.

 

[Addicted]

Even with the rod, you’ll still have chain slap on start—just not as bad, or for as long.

Have you ever installed one of those mechanical tensioners in place of the hydraulic one?

 

[donalds]

Have you ever installed one of those mechanical tensioners in place of the hydraulic one?

Yes
You can buy them on eBay for $20

 

[Addicted]

Yes
You can buy them on eBay for $20

Thanks for the reply. Trying to figure this out. Can you post a link for the ones on eBay?

The link I posted was a bit pricey at around $125, although I wouldn't mind paying this if it works as intended.

I can't figure out though if there is some type of adjustments that need to be made with the mechanical tensioner.

 

[Addicted]

I also found this mechanical tensioner here,

Manual Cam Timing Chain Tensioner

It's priced much lower than the ones on the previous link I posted from Sparks Racing. However again, I'm not sure if this would be the correct one.

 

[donalds]

polaris 1000 manual timing chain tensioner - Google Search

For Polaris RZR XP / XP 4 1000 Manual Cam Timing Chain Tensioner 2014 2015-2018 | eBay

Fits Polaris RZR XP 900 XP 1000 and RZR 570 All Models(Does not fit 2017 Turbo Models!). This manual cam chain tensioner is designed to replace the rattling and malfunctioning hydraulic tensioner on your high performance engine.

www.ebay.com

www.amazon.com/Alpha-Rider-Tensioner-Polaris-Stainless/dp/B07Y9H5NTB/ref=asc_df_B07Y9H5NTB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=647226040511&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1023886939920460629&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009716&hvtargid=pla-1416051041985&psc=1&mcid=e7a551d657bc33d48800a10c009cd1ad


Video thread I made on Hydraulic tensioner design flaws

Ford Timing Chain Tensioner Cutaway

Thought I'd post this. Thought it'd help someone. Any thoughts?

www.explorerforum.com

My install steps for manual timing tensioners
Use this tensioner at your own risk
Its not a fix all
If you are installing new timing equipment I recommend installing factory tensioners Once the engine is running reinstall the manual ones



1...Disassemble the tensioner and put a bit of oil in t so the o ring can move around when you adjust
>>>>>Only turn the engine clockwise <<<<<
2...Set engine to top dead center before installing !!!!!
3...Adjust the tensioner most all the way loose ...or in
4...Then install it into the head
5...Tighten the tensioner adjuster 10mm with your fingers !!!!!!
6...Use your hand and a 10mm socket to turn in the adjustment screw with 2 fingers till it stops
........Do not use a ratchet !!.......<<<<<<<<<<
7...Now have someone turn the engine by hand using the crank bolt clockwise till you feel the adjusting screw get looser
Then adjust again ...with your fingers ...!!!!

8...Now disconnect the crank sensor
9...Have someone crank the engine with the starter
While you keep trying to screw in the adjustment in by hand with 2 fingers
It will screw in a little at a time

>>>>>>>never put much force turning that adjustment screw like almost no force required<<<
We are just removing the slack that's it!!!!!

10...Now the last part
start it and adjust you will feel the pulse of the valve springs
Again use just a 10 mm socket and your to fingers
Once you feel the pulse ing stop your there shut down the engine

11...Last step
Back off your 10 mm adjustment 1/4 turn
Lock it down
done
>>>>>>>>>Do this one Tensioner at a time !!!!!!<<<<<<<

 

[Addicted]

Thank you so much for that detailed write up for the mechanical tensioners. Very nice.

I watched the videos you made showing the cutaways of the hydraulic tensioners. Very informative. I also caught a glimpse of the mechanical tensioner sitting besides the others.


I got to thinking (now correct me if I'm wrong) Isn't that spring inside the hydraulic tensioners suppose to maintain tension while the system is building up oil pressure?

Is that how it was suppose to or intended to work? And if were getting that initial rattle on startup it could be due to a faulty or weakened aged spring?


I also read somewhere that these hydraulic tensioners should get replaced every 60 or 70k miles (Which I never did, let alone even know). So if we did replace these regularly then we would also help prevent all this breakage and or minimize or eliminate the rattle on startup?


Like even on a brand new tensioner, there should be enough tension to were there is no rattle during startup? Or are they going to rattle even when installing a new hydraulic tensioner on startup?

 

[donalds]

I got to thinking (now correct me if I'm wrong) Isn't that spring inside the hydraulic tensioners suppose to maintain tension while the system is building up oil pressure?

Yes
but it don't sometimes even when its new

Is that how it was suppose to or intended to work? And if were getting that initial rattle on startup it could be due to a faulty or weakened aged spring?

Yes that's how it's ment to work
And the rattle is from the weak spring but also include The chain stretching in your calculations

also read somewhere that these hydraulic tensioners should get replaced every 60 or 70k miles (Which I never did, let alone even know). So if we did replace these regularly then we would also help prevent all this breakage and or minimize or eliminate the rattle on startup?

Yes

Like even on a brand new tensioner, there should be enough tension to were there is no rattle during startup? Or are they going to rattle even when installing a new hydraulic tensioner on startup?

When the chain stretches even a little you will start to get rattle

Personally on my sleeper truck I run the hydraulic tensioners because it has a pre oiler but the other vehicles I run manual tensioners

 

[Addicted]

And the rattle is from the weak spring but also include The chain stretching in your calculations

Ah, yes, I didn't take that into the consideration, the chain stretching. So many contributing weak points in that timing system.

So if the chain does stretch after some time, shouldn't all the tensioners be able to automatically adjust for proper tension?


Now taking the likely hood of the chain stretching over time, if using a mechanical tensioners, this would likely need to get adjusted again (every so often)?

I saw a video on you-tube showing an install of a mechanical rzr 1000 tensioner and the person mentioned how it needs to be be adjusted every 500 miles or so (depending on how hard you drive). I thought how inconvenient is that. To have to always be adjusting this.

But thinking about this now, it's possible they mentioned this due to any progressive slack caused by chain stretch?

Although it seems rather soon to have the chain stretching every 500 miles.


How long have you had the mechanical tensioners install in your other vehicles? And have you had to make any periodic adjustments since?

 

[donalds]

So if the chain does stretch after some time, shouldn't all the tensioners be able to automatically adjust for proper tension?

Yes but as they get longer the spring stays the same

How long have you had the mechanical tensioners install in your other vehicles? And have you had to make any periodic adjustments since?

Been a couple years and I've never adjusted them
Ill check them if
They make noise or after 5 years

 

[Addicted]

Yes but as they get longer the spring stays the same

Good point there. Your thoughts are one step ahead of mine.

OK, let's assume were are working with a known good or new hydraulic tensioner which is functioning well.

If were able to supply oil to the area quicker during initial startup then the tensioner would or should be able maintain proper pressure/tension at all times thus eliminating that initial click, click, click?


I saw this video online before I viewed yours about using the pre-oiler and thought, that was a clever idea.



His setup looked a little different than how you did yours. He ran a hose connected to a tee from the oil pressure sending unit directly to the galley plug (while leaving the rod in there).

Can't really see how this is all connected (at the oil pressure sending unit side) as the camera view wasn't showing it well, although you can still get the idea. I wondered how well something like this would work as opposed to your method. Looks like a rather simple bypass.

Would running that hose right up into the galley plug (closer to the hydraulic tensioner) be more preferable (if one was to go this route)?

 

[donalds]

Good point there. Your thoughts are one step ahead of mine.

OK, let's assume were are working with a known good or new hydraulic tensioner which is functioning well.

If were able to supply oil to the area quicker during initial startup then the tensioner would or should be able maintain proper pressure/tension at all times thus eliminating that initial click, click, click?


I saw this video online before I viewed yours about using the pre-oiler and thought, that was a clever idea.



His setup looked a little different than how you did yours. He ran a hose connected to a tee from the oil pressure sending unit directly to the galley plug (while leaving the rod in there).

Can't really see how this is all connected (at the oil pressure sending unit side) as the camera view wasn't showing it well, although you can still get the idea. I wondered how well something like this would work as opposed to your method. Looks like a rather simple bypass.

Would running that hose right up into the galley plug (closer to the hydraulic tensioner) be more preferable (if one was to go this route)?

I have no idea if that would work at that point I'd just go manual

His bypass only does that front tensioner
What about the back one

Mine preoiles the whole engine which is minty

Manual tensioner s cover the problematic hydraulic tensioners

 

[allmyEXes]

@Addicted @donalds @410Fortune Don, I can't seem to find my thread where I was the first guy in the US to use the manual Polaris style tensioner in a 4.0.
The "guinea pig" truck is still going with the manual tensioner in the right rear head and the white '97 4.0 SOHC truck has them in both spots.
Good thing that Polaris originally used the Ford tensioner then upgraded to the mechanical tensioner. Our resident Polaris and Explorer specialist spotted this Ford part on the Polaris and determined that the mechanical upgrade tensioner would work in the "troubled" Ford 4.0 SOHC.
The thread has to be here somewhere...
Added: I learn something everyday. I was not aware that a Mountaineer ever came with a 4.0. I assumed 5.0s only. I could have burned myself purchasing a Mountaineer sight unseen not knowing this. Like I said, I thought that every Mountaineer was a 5.0 powered truck.

 

[donalds]

@Addicted @donalds @410Fortune Don, I can't seem to find my thread where I was the first guy in the US to use the manual Polaris style tensioner in a 4.0.
The "guinea pig" truck is still going with the manual tensioner in the right rear head and the white '97 4.0 SOHC truck has them in both spots.
Good thing that Polaris originally used the Ford tensioner then upgraded to the mechanical tensioner. Our resident Polaris and Explorer specialist spotted this Ford part on the Polaris and determined that the mechanical upgrade tensioner would work in the "troubled" Ford 4.0 SOHC.
The thread has to be here somewhere...
Added: I learn something everyday. I was not aware that a Mountaineer ever came with a 4.0. I assumed 5.0s only. I could have burned myself purchasing a Mountaineer sight unseen not knowing this. Like I said, I thought that every Mountaineer was a 5.0 powered truck.

4.0 SOHC Timing Noise

The tensioners I am talking about are used for Polaris machines but compatible with our Ford SOHC engines (same cloyes body) You see Polaris used the same Ford tensioner to tension the chains in the Prostar OHC engines. I own three of these, a 2014, a 2015 and a 2018. The 2014 and 2015 had...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[Fix4Dirt]

@Addicted @donalds @410Fortune Don, I can't seem to find my thread where I was the first guy in the US to use the manual Polaris style tensioner in a 4.0.
The "guinea pig" truck is still going with the manual tensioner in the right rear head and the white '97 4.0 SOHC truck has them in both spots.
Good thing that Polaris originally used the Ford tensioner then upgraded to the mechanical tensioner. Our resident Polaris and Explorer specialist spotted this Ford part on the Polaris and determined that the mechanical upgrade tensioner would work in the "troubled" Ford 4.0 SOHC.
The thread has to be here somewhere...
Added: I learn something everyday. I was not aware that a Mountaineer ever came with a 4.0. I assumed 5.0s only. I could have burned myself purchasing a Mountaineer sight unseen not knowing this. Like I said, I thought that every Mountaineer was a 5.0 powered truck.

when mounty was first released iirc it was standard v8 but i think in 98 they added the sohc as the base motor

 

[Addicted]

I have no idea if that would work at that point I'd just go manual

His bypass only does that front tensioner
What about the back one

Mine preoiles the whole engine which is minty

Manual tensioner s cover the problematic hydraulic tensioners

I like the idea of the mechanical tensioner. A set tension which never requires adjustment, although you mentioned "chain stretch" which I imagine would require an readjustment (if that was ever to occur). Although If the chain were to stretch some then you would likely hear it again and just need to do a quick readjustment.

It seems all simple except of the part under step 10, were you mentioned "start it and adjust you will feel the pulse of the valve springs. I wonder if I'll really be able to know what that feels like.

If I go too much I imagine I would put stress on the chain and assembly (without realizing).



And then I also like the idea of the hydraulic tensioner doing all the work automatically (of course until in inevitably fails).

That preoiler you setup. Did you ever make any write up on it including the parts used and were onto the engine did you mount this?

With the preoiler installed, you turn the key on for a few seconds (to pre-oil the engine) and then start the car? Is that how that works?

 

[Addicted]

The "guinea pig" truck is still going with the manual tensioner in the right rear head and the white '97 4.0 SOHC truck has them in both spots.

That's reassuring to know. Another successful mechanical manual tensioner install. How long have you had yours setup and never needed to adjust this yet?

I was not aware that a Mountaineer ever came with a 4.0. I assumed 5.0s only. I could have burned myself purchasing a Mountaineer sight unseen not knowing this. Like I said, I thought that every Mountaineer was a 5.0 powered truck.

When I purchased this mountaineer in 2001 I was intentionally looking for a 6 cyl suv. I didn't want an 8 cyl at the time. And given the prices of gas now, I'm glad we went with the 4.0 L (with the exception of this dreaded timing chain issue).

 

[allmyEXes]

@Addicted It's easy to overthink the manual tensioner upgrade. I have 53,000 miles on/in the 2nd 4.0 that I've put manual tensioners on. I don't feel like any chain stretch has occurred. Although a good solution to pre-pumping hydraulic tensioners is a solution, it is adding more moving parts. More parts equals more problems later .
Today, I'm going to have my white '97 torn down far enough to adjust the front tensioner if I wanted to, but I'm not hearing any "chain slappy noises" that make me want to adjust it. I'm installing an aluminum thermostat housing and new rubber hoses on the engine because one heater hose blew that I reused ~ 5 years ago. I reused all of them in fact. Soon, me and my wife are wanting to go on a vacation here in the southeast, and I don't want to have a breakdown just because of some 5+ year old (probably 27 years old actually) hose finally giving way.
One of the 4.0 SOHCs and automatics would be *****ing badass in an early 1970s Pinto with a narrowed 8" or 9". I don't think that an Explorer diffy could be narrowed enough for a Pinto.