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Solved SOHC V6 Timing Chain Parts Sources

explorer-aus

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Alright, so update.

It was definitely the hydraulic tensioner that had failed, I bought another and installed it but the slapping was twice as loud! Oh noes. I gave up and just drove the bastard home thinking it was over, but a few drives later randomly went quiet again. Seems that the tensioner may have had an air lock? or just took a while to build pressure properly when it was new. Either way, the car is running perfectly fine now with silence. It does have a quick rattle on cold start due to not installing the galley plug upgrade (galley plug is so rusted I cannot remove it)
 


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WarriorDriver

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so...... so far ONLY buy ford parts?
 




Tyleryac

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For a critical engine component I would say its best to go with Motorcraft parts. That is part of the reason my chains are being replaced at the dealership.
 




g43crazy

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I would like to add to this . I made the mistake of buying one of the 4USA kits from e-bay . This is on a 2003 Sport Trac with around 150,000 miles on it . Did the work back in July . Everything seemed great . End of December timing chain guide on drivers side plastic broke off ....dropped down of coarse . I pulled it back apart to replace that . Now middle of January I start to hear a much smaller noise from the pass. side . After pulling the valve cover on that side I see the top parts of the guide gone there as well .
Knowing what is in store for me after doing this job 1 and a half times ....do yourself a favor and spend a little more on the timing set ! I don`t know if I got a lemon or all of there kits are like this . I do see that they list that they have sold almost 200 of them . Thanks to 2000streetrod for starting this .
g43crazy
 




Lodogg2221

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EDIT: Found the part number list from 2000StreedRod. Still not sure how many of those parts I need. I know I need:
Jackshaft/primary timing chain kit 2U3Z6D256CA
Left/front timing chain cassette assembly 7U3Z6A257A
Right/rear timing chain cassette assembly 4L2Z6M290AA

Not sure what else though.

Original:

I know this is an old thread, but since my 05 now has this issue, does anyone have a list of Ford part numbers for the complete "kit" to complete the repair?

Ive looked on their site, and it appears I need to piece it together, as I dont see a complete kit that covers all 3 assemblies necessary for a complete replacement job. I assume the cassette on Fords site is the chain, guides, etc for each side, but they dont appear to include the tensioners (which I just bought hoping it was a tensioner), or bolts.

Also, if someone does have the numbers, is there a place online that sells OEM parts that is cheaper than others?
 




2000StreetRod

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what are doing?

Do you want to replace all of the camshaft related components in your vehicle?
Do you want to use OEM parts?
Do you have AWD with a balance shaft engine or RWD with no balance shaft?
Do you have the OTC-6488 timing tool kit?
 




Lodogg2221

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Do you want to replace all of the camshaft related components in your vehicle?
Do you want to use OEM parts?
Do you have AWD with a balance shaft engine or RWD with no balance shaft?
Do you have the OTC-6488 timing tool kit?

I know the right side needs replaced, and I now have a noise on the left as well, so I figured since Im pulling the motor anyway, I might as well change out any other related parts that are known wear parts, I just dont know what are known wear parts on the 4.0 engine related to the timing components.

I would prefer the best quality parts I can, so probably OEM. I do have new Cloyes tensioners, bought in the hopes that the tensioner was the issue. It wasnt. But Ive read they are of good quality, though their cassettes dont seem to be as good as OEM.

It is the 4x4 version, and as such, I assume it has the balance shaft. Seems strange that one would need it and one not, just based off of the number of driven wheels...not that its important, just something I find odd.

I do not have the timing tool kit. I can either purchase it if necessary, or hope the FLAPS has it for rental.



Ive got to say, I like our Explorer, this is the only real trouble its given us in the 85,000+ miles we have owned it, or the 32000 my Dad owned it. But given the necessary work to do the job, that appears required around 100,000 miles, one would think they would have designed it to be a bit easier to service. VW specifies 90-100,000 mile timing belt service on the diesels, and I changed the timing belt on my TDI VW in three evenings after work, including pulling the pan to change the oil pump drive chain, and that is simple in comparison to this, work load wise. Although with the engine out, it will be easier to accomplish the parts change since I wont have to work around anything.
 




2000StreetRod

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back up vehicle?

If you have another vehicle to drive while the Explorer is being repaired then you can potentially save some money by only ordering parts that you find after tear down that need replacement.

The SOHC V6 is a kluge design that allowed the incorporation of overhead cams on an existing block (OHV V6) that had a long history of evolution from the Cologne Germany plant. The main purpose seems to have been to improve performance and fuel economy with little or no consideration for maintainability. There were some significant reliability improvements incorporated in the 2002 and later models but the rear cassette guide was never reinforced on the traction side and eventually shears from fatigue or stress.
RearCstPiece.jpg

RCasset.jpg

Unfortunately, when it fails either the engine (preferred) or the transmission must be pulled to replace it.

Have you confirmed by inspection that the rear cassette has failed by either pulling the valve cover and looking at it or pulling the oil pan and identifying the pieces? Sounds echo off the internal walls of the block making it difficult to accurately locate the source. Some forum members have been "certain" that their rear cassette had failed only to learn after inspection that it hadn't.
 




Lodogg2221

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If you have another vehicle to drive while the Explorer is being repaired then you can potentially save some money by only ordering parts that you find after tear down that need replacement.
.......
Have you confirmed by inspection that the rear cassette has failed by either pulling the valve cover and looking at it or pulling the oil pan and identifying the pieces? Sounds echo off the internal walls of the block making it difficult to accurately locate the source. Some forum members have been "certain" that their rear cassette had failed only to learn after inspection that it hadn't.

Its my wifes, but yes, she is driving my truck currently, until the issue is resolved. I had intended to wait on a few parts, but figured if there were things that generally get replaced at or near a certain mileage, Id go ahead and get that stuff, or at least add it to my list, so I can get a cost estimate.

I have not confirmed it yet. Ill try to do that tonight, although the noise a chain makes running along a surface without any type of buffer makes a unique sound, and thats what Im hearing through the oil fill cap on that side.
The other side is more of a knock, and just started, and is the reason its parked until fixed, and my diagnosis is based off of what Im reading about the sounds people have encountered with this being the issue on the new sound.
The noises its making (similar to a rod but not quite as loud, and constant, varying speed with engine RPM, not coming or going based on load), if not the cassette, are going to require internal inspection anyway, so it still probably should come out.
Either that or it got envious of my TDI and is just trying to imitate the sound it makes....though with 309000 miles, its still a bit quieter than the Explorer at this point.

My biggest issue right now is that we are closing on a new house in a couple days, so I cant work on it at home right now, and it will be a few weeks before I can get into it at the new place. And I assume inspecting it will require a new valve cover gasket so that I can drive it to the new house without losing oil.
 




2000StreetRod

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Gasket sealer

You should be able to reuse the valve cover gaskets without leakage if you apply gasket sealer to them - especially if it's only going to be for a month or two.

Replacing the entire balance shaft chain tensioner involves a fair amount of work and more gaskets because the block cradle has to be removed. Some members just cut the chain and remove it (disables the balance shaft). A few members have been able to replace all of it except the base with clever workarounds.

You'll probably want to replace the primary chain tensioner and any broken cassettes (includes guide, sprocket & chain). The primary chain guide lasts a long time but most members replace it even though it's not worn much because it is cheap and easy to replace.
 




stangfan

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4USA parts

I bought the 4USA complete kit on ebay 2 years ago. I've put approximately 20,000 miles on them and they have failed. Engine suddenly began the death rattle a couple weeks ago. Pulled the front cover and the entire guide leaf assy was laying in the oil pan. Pulled the engine and found absolutely every plastic part badly broken and strewn through the engine. Chains look weak. Emailed them last week and have gotten nada back. My opinion is this is a inferior product and will never buy it again. Just picked up the new parts from Ford. OUCH!! Not sure if the car is even worth that much. LOL
 




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Hey everyone! For people deciding whether to go aftermarket or OEM, I say go OEM. I was just about ready to purchase the cloye's chains, when i came across the eBay store "Tasca Parts". I was able to buy all Ford OEM timing chain parts brand new. I purchased the rear cassette, sprockets, and chain, the front cassette sprockets and chain, the primary guide and 6 leaf tensioner, and the balance shaft guide and tensioner for a total of $344. Its significantly less than dealerships want, and all the parts are the same. I will be buying the primary chain and balance shaft chain later on from the same website. Everyone do yourself a favor - go OEM. This motor is a lot of work and a cheap kit will just take your work and stick it up your a**.
 




Lodogg2221

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Hey everyone! For people deciding whether to go aftermarket or OEM, I say go OEM. I was just about ready to purchase the cloye's chains, when i came across the eBay store "Tasca Parts". I was able to buy all Ford OEM timing chain parts brand new. I purchased the rear cassette, sprockets, and chain, the front cassette sprockets and chain, the primary guide and 6 leaf tensioner, and the balance shaft guide and tensioner for a total of $344. Its significantly less than dealerships want, and all the parts are the same. I will be buying the primary chain and balance shaft chain later on from the same website. Everyone do yourself a favor - go OEM. This motor is a lot of work and a cheap kit will just take your work and stick it up your a**.

Thanks for the info. Ill be ordering parts soon...finally.
I dont see them that cheap now though. Best Ive seen is from these guys: www.discountfordpartsfromsoundford.net

These are the parts Im looking at, and its possible you didnt get the whole Jackshaft/Primary kit:
2U3Z6D256CA Jackshaft/Primary kit 176.03
7U3Z6A257A Left/Front cassette assy 94.85
4L2Z6M290AA Right/Rear cassette assy 95.08
And the Intake kit (need the gaskets anyway)
YL2Z9E473AA 67.87
Plus various other miscellaneous parts that Im sure will need replaced too while Im in there. I know some of the bolts are torque to yield.
And I still need the tool to hold the cams in place...but better than paying someone else.
 




Tech By Trade

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Tasca also has a regular website, but White Bear Autonation Ford usualy undercuts them by a few bucks. Also if you are in Canada, Autonation ships USPS which saves a pile in Bull Shit brokerage fees.
 




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Thanks for the info. Ill be ordering parts soon...finally.
I dont see them that cheap now though. Best Ive seen is from these guys: www.discountfordpartsfromsoundford.net

These are the parts Im looking at, and its possible you didnt get the whole Jackshaft/Primary kit:
2U3Z6D256CA Jackshaft/Primary kit 176.03
7U3Z6A257A Left/Front cassette assy 94.85
4L2Z6M290AA Right/Rear cassette assy 95.08
And the Intake kit (need the gaskets anyway)
YL2Z9E473AA 67.87
Plus various other miscellaneous parts that Im sure will need replaced too while Im in there. I know some of the bolts are torque to yield.
And I still need the tool to hold the cams in place...but better than paying someone else.
I ordered the parts 2 days ago and they already came today. Very fast shipping. I'm telling you, go tasca parts. I'll send you a link, standby. Oh, and I didn't get the primary sprockets or chain. Just the tensioners
 




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Thanks for the info. Ill be ordering parts soon...finally.
I dont see them that cheap now though. Best Ive seen is from these guys: www.discountfordpartsfromsoundford.net

These are the parts Im looking at, and its possible you didnt get the whole Jackshaft/Primary kit:
2U3Z6D256CA Jackshaft/Primary kit 176.03
7U3Z6A257A Left/Front cassette assy 94.85
4L2Z6M290AA Right/Rear cassette assy 95.08
And the Intake kit (need the gaskets anyway)
YL2Z9E473AA 67.87
Plus various other miscellaneous parts that Im sure will need replaced too while Im in there. I know some of the bolts are torque to yield.
And I still need the tool to hold the cams in place...but better than paying someone else.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-FOR...V6-SOHC-7U3Z-6A257-A-/281534314542?nav=SEARCH

Scroll to the bottom and type in what you need.
 




2000StreetRod

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Did you receive the later one with the keeper pivot pin instead of the pressed pin?
7U3Z-6A257-A.jpg

There was a change in either the head or block casting around 2003 or 2004 that made it difficult to remove/install the older cassette without damaging it unless the head was removed. The newer cassette with the removable pivot pin needs less clearance usually avoiding the need to remove the head.
 




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Did you receive the later one with the keeper pivot pin instead of the pressed pin?
View attachment 93111
There was a change in either the head or block casting around 2003 or 2004 that made it difficult to remove/install the older cassette without damaging it unless the head was removed. The newer cassette with the removable pivot pin needs less clearance usually avoiding the need to remove the head.
Mine is a 2002 so I should be good. I will check in the morning.

Edit: yep, the one above is the one I got
 




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Thanks for the info. Ill be ordering parts soon...finally.
I dont see them that cheap now though. Best Ive seen is from these guys: www.discountfordpartsfromsoundford.net

These are the parts Im looking at, and its possible you didnt get the whole Jackshaft/Primary kit:
2U3Z6D256CA Jackshaft/Primary kit 176.03
7U3Z6A257A Left/Front cassette assy 94.85
4L2Z6M290AA Right/Rear cassette assy 95.08
And the Intake kit (need the gaskets anyway)
YL2Z9E473AA 67.87
Plus various other miscellaneous parts that Im sure will need replaced too while Im in there. I know some of the bolts are torque to yield.
And I still need the tool to hold the cams in place...but better than paying someone else.
I didn't get the whole kit, I plan on reusing the sprockets being that the motor only has 90k
 


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2000StreetRod

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I wasn't aware you could purchase the cassette guide without the sprockets. I thought Ford stopped that 5 or 6 years ago claiming that wear patterns were generated on the sprockets by the chains. Maybe the above post is referring to the jackshaft sprockets and crankshaft sprocket.
 




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