HOLY CRAP......I think got it !!

[toughguy]

thank you to all and this forum, I have learned a lot from this board to make all the repairs to my EB's.

I posted to this forum a few weeks ago about the "rough Idle" issue I was having, you guys came to my rescue.

I tried all and nothing cured the problem, my wife's EB purrs like a kitten and I was pissed. and I just gave up...

so today I was fixing the gear selector cable under the steering column to line up when I select the gear I noticed the gas pedal cable was really stretched out.
I then went to the throttle body and opened the plate to wot and held it open. then I used two zip ties and tightened up the cable. then checked it out and it worked great.

I then started the truck up the idle was a little high, then dropped down and smoothed out. I took it for a test drive and HOLY CRAP...THE PICKUP IS AWESOME....and the idle has smoothed out. I now realized how bad the truck was, this is great, I hope this can help out somebody else. thanks again for all the member here to help out everyday.

 

[Mike65]

Where did you put the zip ties?

 

[koda2000]

I can see where adding the wire ties helps with acceleration due to a stretched throttle cable (which is a pretty common problem) but this fix should have nothing to do with fixing a rough idle. Has your idle speed increased? What is it now? What was it before adding the wire ties? A 5.0 should idle at an indicated 600-650 RPM, a 4.0 around an indicated 500 RPM. I say indicated because Ford tach's are notoriously inaccurate. A rough idle is usually caused by a vacuum leak, needing a tune up, or worn internal engine components

 

[gatzdon]

I have a feeling that you solved your problem by effectively 'holding' your accelerator down. I'm guessing that your mileage will be bad as a result.

 

[Turdle]

Looking up at the throttle pedal lever, you'll see this

Pull the cable tight, wrap a zip tie, or 2 or 3, around the cable base for fix


actually there is supposed to be a spring in there but as of yet I haven't seen one in any I checked for it.

 

[amberanger]

I did that, same results. The quicker throttle response felt like 20 more horsepower.

 

[toughguy]

I can see where adding the wire ties helps with acceleration due to a stretched throttle cable (which is a pretty common problem) but this fix should have nothing to do with fixing a rough idle. Has your idle speed increased? What is it now? What was it before adding the wire ties? A 5.0 should idle at an indicated 600-650 RPM, a 4.0 around an indicated 500 RPM. I say indicated because Ford tach's are notoriously inaccurate. A rough idle is usually caused by a vacuum leak, needing a tune up, or worn internal engine components

I will check idle speed this morning, before and after warm up. the idle is not "rough" just "UN" smooth, as for the tune up I have changed the following: Plugs, wires, Pvc, air filter.

 

[toughguy]

I did that, same results. The quicker throttle response felt like 20 more horsepower.

yes !!!

 

[sehaare]

You guys are really trying to get me to go out in the cold weather today to look at my gas pedal/throttle cable aren't you.

 

[toughguy]

You guys are really trying to get me to go out in the cold weather today to look at my gas pedal/throttle cable aren't you.

it will be worth it !!!

 

[toughguy]

UPDATE: from a cold start the RPM's are between 800 and low 900, while driving it will normal according to speed, at idle at a light or stop sign is will be 700 to 780. I thought the throttle was stuck a little open causing the high Rpm's, I lefty the engine running in park took the air housing off the engine died immediately. I checked the throttle plate and it was tightly closed. I reinstalled the air housing hose and the truck wouldn't start...I used a hammer to tap the starter and she started. what is causing the high idle, IAC switch? also is the starter a PITA to replace?

 

[wcjeep]

From your description it sounds like the zip ties are causing a high idle which appears to be masking the previous rough idle. There are plenty of vehicles that have easier starter access. Definitely swap the starter after the engine is cold. I had to remove mine to swap the defective battery cable. I didn't need to lift the vehicle to crawl under to swap the starter. However, it might be easier to safely lift the vehicle.

 

[toughguy]

From your description it sounds like the zip ties are causing a high idle which appears to be masking the previous rough idle. There are plenty of vehicles that have easier starter access. Definitely swap the starter after the engine is cold. I had to remove mine to swap the defective battery cable. I didn't need to lift the vehicle to crawl under to swap the starter. However, it might be easier to safely lift the vehicle.

wcjeep, that's what I thought too. but I check the throttle flap and she was fully seated. so this tells me its possible something else. possible the IAC?

 

[koda2000]

I think your slightly high idle is being caused by one too many wire ties on the throttle cable. Try removing one. High idle can be caused by a vacuum leak, a dirty, sticking throttle body plate, or perhaps a bad IAC.

My "spare truck" 2000 XLT 5.0L had a high idle (1000-1100 rpm) when I bought it. I checked for any obvious vacuum leaks and couldn't find any. I replaced the IAC, which made no difference. I removed and cleaned the t/b, which made no difference. I even swapped the t/b with one out of another of my 5.0's, which made no difference. I suspect I had/have an intake manifold gasket leak, but as this truck is just a family spare, to be used if one of the others breaks down, I didn't feel like messing with it. As there was apparently unmonitored air getting into the engine, I reasoned that if I plugged the small hole in the throttle body plate, less air would be getting in. It worked perfectly bringing the idle down to around 600/650 rpm once at normal operating temp. I drove the truck for about 4,000 miles afterward and it still idles perfect. Good enough.

 

[toughguy]

I think your slightly high idle is being caused by one too many wire ties on the throttle cable. Try removing one. High idle can be caused by a vacuum leak, a dirty, sticking throttle body plate, or perhaps a bad IAC.

My "spare truck" 2000 XLT 5.0L had a high idle (1000-1100 rpm) when I bought it. I checked for any obvious vacuum leaks and couldn't find any. I replaced the IAC, which made no difference. I removed and cleaned the t/b, which made no difference. I even swapped the t/b with one out of another of my 5.0's, which made no difference. I suspect I had/have an intake manifold gasket leak, but as this truck is just a family spare, to be used if one of the others breaks down, I didn't feel like messing with it. As there was apparently unmonitored air getting into the engine, I reasoned that if I plugged the small hole in the throttle body plate, less air would be getting in. It worked perfectly bringing the idle down to around 600/650 rpm once at normal operating temp. I drove the truck for about 4,000 miles afterward and it still idles perfect. Good enough.

does it make a difference if the zip ties are behind the gas pedal or in front of the pedal ? and what did you plug the small hole in the throttle plate with?

 

[koda2000]

The wire ties should be placed where they the have the effect if shortening the cable (see post #5 by Turdle).

To plug the hole in my throttle plate, I first tried a piece of Gorilla tape to see what the effect would be. Once I determined it would do what I wanted, I removed the tape and installed a small brass machine screw with a nut and used red Loctite to make sure it would never come loose. This reduced my idle speed from 1100 to 600/650 rpm. I think this would reduce your idle too much, as yours isn't as high has mine.

I had asked you how high your idle was before you added the wire ties. You did not answer this question. If it was around 650 rpm and is now higher, you installed too many wire ties. Just remove one.

 

[toughguy]

The wire ties should be placed where they the have the effect if shortening the cable (see post #5 by Turdle).

To plug the hole in my throttle plate, I first tried a piece of Gorilla tape to see what the effect would be. Once I determined it would do what I wanted, I removed the tape and installed a small brass machine screw with a nut and used red Loctite to make sure it would never come loose. This reduced my idle speed from 1100 to 600/650 rpm. I think this would reduce your idle too much, as yours isn't as high has mine.

I had asked you how high your idle was before you added the wire ties. You did not answer this question. If it was around 650 rpm and is now higher, you installed too many wire ties. Just remove one.

this is what I have: I put two zip ties right behind the brass fitting, I checked the throttle plate she closes to a tight seal so there's no possible chance the higher idle is from the throttle plate. as for the idle before the zip ties, I don't know the exact rpm's but I can say is was lower than what am at now.

 

[koda2000]

this is what I have: I put two zip ties right behind the brass fitting, I checked the throttle plate she closes to a tight seal so there's no possible chance the higher idle is from the throttle plate. as for the idle before the zip ties, I don't know the exact rpm's but I can say is was lower than what am at now.

What you're saying regarding adding the wire ties and your current idle speed really does not compute. You say you installed 2 wire ties in the correct location, but is there any play left in the cable when the gas pedal is in it's fully relaxed position? The should be a little slack/play in the cable (minimum 1/8"). All cables require a little play to work properly. I suspect your throttle cable is now too tight and that's what has raised your idle slightly. Cut off one of the wire ties and see if your idle goes back down. Think about how many wire ties you've installed and their effect. You could install 5 wire ties, or more, but your idle speed will go up accordingly. The effect is like holding the gas pedal down.

As far as your throttle closing tightly, it's not supposed to close tight. if it does it will stick closed. That's what the small STOP screw is there for. I suggest you do not attempt to adjust this screw. When at rest the throttle plate's arm should be resting on this screw. If it's not, the throttle cable is too tight. Try sliding a thin piece of paper between the screw and the throttle plate's arm. It should not go in.

I don't understand why you are so resistant to removing one of the wire ties you installed. You can always put it back if it does not achieve the desired result.

 

[toughguy]

When l get home tonight I will cut off one zip tie and see what happens, and I will update tonight, thanks.

 

[toughguy]

What you're saying regarding adding the wire ties and your current idle speed really does not compute. You say you installed 2 wire ties in the correct location, but is there any play left in the cable when the gas pedal is in it's fully relaxed position? The should be a little slack/play in the cable (minimum 1/8"). All cables require a little play to work properly. I suspect your throttle cable is now too tight and that's what has raised your idle slightly. Cut off one of the wire ties and see if your idle goes back down. Think about how many wire ties you've installed and their effect. You could install 5 wire ties, or more, but your idle speed will go up accordingly. The effect is like holding the gas pedal down.

As far as your throttle closing tightly, it's not supposed to close tight. if it does it will stick closed. That's what the small STOP screw is there for. I suggest you do not attempt to adjust this screw. When at rest the throttle plate's arm should be resting on this screw. If it's not, the throttle cable is too tight. Try sliding a thin piece of paper between the screw and the throttle plate's arm. It should not go in.

I don't understand why you are so resistant to removing one of the wire ties you installed. You can always put it back if it does not achieve the desired result.

ok I cut off one of the ties, the throttle plate still opens fully, the idle has not changed, after startup she goes up 850+/- in gear she drops to 770+/- I just unplugged the IAC to see and she dropped down to 710+/- when I plugged her back in she went up to 880+/-. as for now I will keep one zip tie on as its not increasing the idle.......hopefully. thanks.