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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Ive read like every post from 6/10 pages on this thread, I have a 95, can I lower it like 1.5"-2"? How would I go about lowering the back? Would this affect anything at all?
I have looked into it a ton, and cant seem to find a straight answer, so i figure id ask on here lol,
and this might sound noob-ish...but what are blocks? where can I get them? and how hard are they to instal? Could a 17 year old with a basic set of tools do it?
Hopefully this will help...This is what I'm running.
Lowering keyways: Product number Key-FR98DROP...$49.00
Airbagit.com
Bumpstops: Energy Suspension Part # 9-91023 (2 per pack and you need 2 packs) $8.99ea. Jegs.com
Shocks: Nitro Slammers $42.02ea for the fronts (call and they will make them custom for your 2" drop) Doetsch-shocks.com
Alignment cams: Ingalls Part # IEC-29000 $25.39ea (you need 2)
Summitracing.com
2" lowering block kit: Part # DJM-LBZLK $28.95
Summitracing.com
Couple things to note:
You don't need to change your shocks in the rear because the mounting points don't change. (I do reccommend you change them out for a better ride though. I plan to change mine out soon as I have 59k on mine now).
The alignment cam kit I have listed is a kit alot of people on this site use and one I found after the fact. I went to my local parts store and just bought a cam kit that just came with 4 adjustment cams. The Summit kit includes bolts. I paid $40.00 for my kit and have had 0 problems with getting it aligned.....and I didn't have to remove the bolt, just the nut and cam on the end.
The DJM lowering blocks come with alluminium blocks. Although I haven't had any problems with them I do plan to change them to steel ones at a later date (just for piece of mind).
And finally the bumpstops...The rear went right in the rear holes where the old bumpstops came out. In the front however the factort holes are to small. My simple fix was to remove the factory bumpstop and mount my new ones on the lower control arm where the old one made contact...just had to drill a couple holes.
Make sure you get an alignment as soon as your done...Hope this helps.
If I left anything out or someone has a better way to go feel free to chime in.
Later I'll be adding a larger Addco swaybar to the rear, soon as I find a good price on it.....Probably Summit or Jegs.
1" Sway bar: ADDCO Part # ACO-633 $168.95
Summitracing.com
Yes, you will need longer U bolts. The cheap ones should be fine. As far as downfalls, there is no better way to do this on the cheap. Since the Explorer doesn't ride nice to begin with, you will probably not notice any downfalls.
Hopefully this will help...This is what I'm running.
Lowering keyways: Product number Key-FR98DROP...$49.00
Airbagit.com
Bumpstops: Energy Suspension Part # 9-91023 (2 per pack and you need 2 packs) $8.99ea. Jegs.com
Shocks: Nitro Slammers $42.02ea for the fronts (call and they will make them custom for your 2" drop) Doetsch-shocks.com
Alignment cams: Ingalls Part # IEC-29000 $25.39ea (you need 2)
Summitracing.com
2" lowering block kit: Part # DJM-LBZLK $28.95
Summitracing.com
Couple things to note:
You don't need to change your shocks in the rear because the mounting points don't change. (I do reccommend you change them out for a better ride though. I plan to change mine out soon as I have 59k on mine now).
The alignment cam kit I have listed is a kit alot of people on this site use and one I found after the fact. I went to my local parts store and just bought a cam kit that just came with 4 adjustment cams. The Summit kit includes bolts. I paid $40.00 for my kit and have had 0 problems with getting it aligned.....and I didn't have to remove the bolt, just the nut and cam on the end.
The DJM lowering blocks come with alluminium blocks. Although I haven't had any problems with them I do plan to change them to steel ones at a later date (just for piece of mind).
And finally the bumpstops...The rear went right in the rear holes where the old bumpstops came out. In the front however the factort holes are to small. My simple fix was to remove the factory bumpstop and mount my new ones on the lower control arm where the old one made contact...just had to drill a couple holes.
Make sure you get an alignment as soon as your done...Hope this helps.
If I left anything out or someone has a better way to go feel free to chime in.
Later I'll be adding a larger Addco swaybar to the rear, soon as I find a good price on it.....Probably Summit or Jegs.
1" Sway bar: ADDCO Part # ACO-633 $168.95
Summitracing.com
All you need to do is the TT, blocks, and an alignment. I put this together for those people that wanted the X-spec suspension without the X-spec price.
i thought you only needed an alignment if you raised it?
But I do plan on doing some better suspension and whatnot but I have some more serious issues to work out first lmao.
