How do you equalize parking brake cables?

[BonesDT]

I need help with this. My P-Brake has been broken for years and I have a manual transmission. I just replaced the p-brake shoes, hardware and all cables, which were rusted up and seized over the idle years. It now works, but not perfectly, I wouldn't trust it alone on a hill.

I took some measurements and I have a clearer idea of what's still wrong. My drawing shows the measurements I took, but to simplify things, when I press the the p-brake pedal down 1.4", the left wheel cable is pulling 1.0" while the right wheel cable is only pulling 0.4". So the cables aren't being properly equalized. So the right cable is harder to pull than the left cable. Like I said, both cables are brand new Raybestos'.

So the left wheel works perfectly. It releases completely and then tightens up. However the right wheel p-brake shoes open and close very slightly, so I had to adjust the shoe adjuster, but basically, the shoes slightly rub when the p-brake is off while I'm driving, then when I apply the p-brake it doesn't tighten as much as the left wheel.

Now here's the question: how the hell do you fix this??

 

[dogfriend]

Are you sure that the cable isn't binding somewhere on the right side? The service manual doesn't give any clues on how to fix an unbalanced cable except to suggest looking for worn or damaged parts.

 

[BonesDT]

I don't think so. It's moving now. It moves that 0.4", which is effective.

I figure if the two cables aren't made to exact specs/lengths, then it throws the whole thing off, cuz one cable will be more taut while the other has slack. Maybe Raybestos got it wrong. The adjuster screws inside help, but they are really there to correct minor pad wear changes, not to take up slack on a cable. I feel like I replaced that long right cable twice already. The cables sure seize up easily. I just don't get it.

 

[Togman]

Can you lube them at all?

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Bones... did you ever fix this? It's inspection time for me, and as [expletive deleted] usual, I'm having to mess with my brakes which aren't holding. I think I have a similar problem to you with poorly equalized cables.

 

[BonesDT]

I'm glad you asked. I bought the Lokar EC-81FHT stainless steel cable kit specifically designed for the Explorer Ford 8.8.
http://www.lokar.com/product-descriptions/univ-ebrake-cables.htm

(I also separately bought the gold piece in the upper right corner of this picture because the piece that comes with the kit is useless)
http://www.lokar.com/interior_pages/products/ebrakecables_concables/images/ec8001u.jpg

I bought it a while ago and just haven't had the patience to install (& do some minor bracket fabbing) until 2 weeks ago.

Well ... I'm still having issues. When I try to push down on the pedal, it feels like nothing is moving besides cables stretching. I plan on looking at it again this weekend. I'm starting to think maybe it has something to do with the pedal cable being too stretched from my 3" body lift. I just though of a great solution for that and see if that's going to work. I'm just baffled. I literally replaced every single part of the system besides the actual pedal. Something is kinking up somewhere.

I'll take some pictures this weekend, promise.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Keep me posted on the Lokar kit, looks simple and slick. From the picture it looked like the e-brake ends were not the correct "hoop" needed for our actuators.

 

[BonesDT]

the e-brake ends were not the correct "hoop" needed for our actuators.

whoa! I don't understand any of those words. If you're talking about the end that goes to the wheel, they are specifically designed by Lokar for the Explorer rear axle and they fit perfectly, even better than OEM - Raybestos replacements needed to be drilled out a tad to fit.

An awesome feature of the Lokar cables are the serviceable attachments. Just unbolt the locking nut and remove the cable, instead of trying to use 3 arms to push in the 3 tabs. Also note, the Lokar kit doesn't come with the springs that the OEM cables have between the brake clevis and the locking nut. I played with installing the old springs and not, but I felt they just got in the way of making the whole system taught.

If you're talking about the other end, the gold C with a pin, then yes, this is the piece that is useless and I paid Lokar extra for the other adapter that works.

The OEM 2-door Sport Intermediate Cable was too short for the way I set this up, so I used the old cable of the OEM left rear cable. You just lop off one end of the cable (leave the clear plastic covering on) and slip it into the Lokar phallic symbol.

You'll need substantial spacers to keep the cable level with the factory holes in the frame. I stacked 2 slabs of thick metal (3/8" each?).

Here's my pedal cable mod! I have a 3" body lift, which pulls this cable tight, to the max. With all my issues, I was worried about it binding up, so I drilled a 1/2" hole (need to make it a hair wider than that with a Dremel) into the closer thingamajig. This is about 3.5-4" shorter, so the cable sits perfect again.

 

[BonesDT]

So ... after all this, does it work now? Yes, after literally hours of fine tuning the notches on both brakes and perfectly aligning the cables (Lokar's kit doesn't use a genuine "equalizer" like OEM), I did get it so the truck will hold.

I've replaced EVERY part of the system. p-brake pads, internal springs, all cables, etc. The one thing I didn't replace is the pedal assembly.

Yes, now I'm thinking it's the pedal assembly that's the problem. It just doesn't feel right. You can only push it in like 2 inches, and when you release it, it only releases like 1 inch and you have to pull it up the rest of the way.

I forget since it's been years since it's worked. Isn't the pedal suppose to click a few times as you push it down to the floor?

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Thanks for the photos - looks great and makes a lot of sense.

Yea, my assembly failed and I replaced it with a junkyard unit. I get about 5" of pedal travel, with a click every 3/4-1"

 

[Scott B.]

Thanks for the pictures and link.

I am about to swap in rear disks on my '06 - I think I will use the Lokar cables.

Also, on my '93 with the Explorer rear end, the factory cables never quite adapted to the Ranger front section. Maybe I'll change those to Lokar cables too...

 

[Tbars4]

...Just curious...I just did th 8.8 swap on my Ranger and found out there was no adjustment on my parking brake...Did I miss something on the 95's???

 

[Scott B.]

Both of my Rangers have no adjustment in the cable. The adjustment happens automatically in the pedal (OK, so the adjusters on the '93 have a problem, and don't always work correctly.)

Do you have discs on your new 8.8?

 

[Tbars4]

...Man, I thought I totally missed seeing the adjustment bolt...

...My 8.8 is from a 93 X with drums, but it came with a Detroit inside...:biggthump ...I used the factory Ranger parking cables and just re-ran them in the new axle....I got out to Truckhaven and tried to make a better adjustment for wheeling and was like :scratch:

 

[gijoecam]

The only adjustment is on the parking brake assembly itself. If one side pulls more than the other, it means that the shoes aren't adjusted evenly, or the 'drum' they ride on is worn unevenly. It's even possible thatyou lost the friction material off one shoe. The OEM equalizer does, in fact, equalize the FORCE applied to both cables (assuming they move freely in their jackets, of course) but not necessarily the displacement.

 

[Scott B.]

For the record, the cable length vs. case length of the passenger side of the Explorer cable is different than the Ranger cable. (Driver's side appears to be the same.) I had to "customize" the attachment.

It works - but I am seriously thinking about changing the cables to the Lokar ones - I really like those!

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Bones, what e-brake shoes are you using? I'm still having issues, and am beginning to think that the Autozone Duralast shoes are crap.

 

[BonesDT]

Raybestos.

I finally got the part number for my pedal assembly. No luck with used ones on Ebay. Just trying to avoid the dealership $110 for it. But with the cold coming, im itching for a remote start which mandates a fully op p-brake with my stick shift, so I might just cave in to Ford.

 

[Scott B.]

Bendix makes parking brake shoes, too. RS 701

Raybestos number 701 PG

(I'm sensing a pattern!)

 

[BonesDT]

I don't know why, but I'm loyal to Raybestos. Maybe it's because they make all brake system components and I have a thing about sticking with 1 company for as many parts as I can. Maybe it's because they have a cool name. Maybe it's because they have a cool NASCAR logo on their boxes. Maybe it's because RockAuto carries them. Or maybe because they have a good website to look up their part numbers. I wouldn't vouch for their quality, I questioned the quality of their p-brake cables. The firewall grommet for their p-brake pedal cable was half the size of OEM and doesn't fully seal the hole. The eyelets on the end of their rear p-brake cables need to be drilled out slightly to fit the drums' levers. But I don't think they are anything to curse about, I mean they are cheap aftermarket replacements and that's why I buy from them as opposed to OEM or performance aftermarket. Also, Scott B is probably right, they are probably all made from the same place anyway.

BTW, the "Lever Assembly" for my model ('99 Sport) is F87Z-2780-AA.