How High Do I Have to Raise the Ex to Drop the Trans? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How High Do I Have to Raise the Ex to Drop the Trans?

73Elsinore

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December 15, 2004
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City, State
Central California
Year, Model & Trim Level
'91 XLT 4x4
Hi guys. How high do I have to raise the Ex to drop the trans and pull it out? This is a '91 4x4 XLT with the 5-sp manual.

My rear main seal leak is getting worse and I am getting set up to fix it and making sure I am properly rigged up in advance for the job. I will rent a trans jack. Will the truck be high enough with just driving the front wheels up on regular ramps? Thanks! Pete
 



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Hi,

I haven't had to do this job, so I can't answer this directly. But, you will probably get a better response by asking this question in the tranny forum.

BTW, it would seem to me that raising just the front (on ramps) would make it difficult to line up the tranny when re-installing. Hopefully, you'll get a better answer from those here with more experience.

Also, have you searched the forums? I'm thinking that tranny removal is probably covered in a sticky somewhere.

Good luck!

Mike
 






with a tranny jack you are going to need to put the front tires on ramps, the jack itself is 6" tall

I have 35" tires on my BII and I can drop and remove the trans without any lift of any type

With the front on ramps stabbing the transmission is still easy, especially using a good transmission jack

IMO the transmission jack is not required, I lift/stab the transmission myself using a floor jack or ratchet straps to get it up high enough, then I get under the trans and use my knees and arms to raise it and stab it.....

the one time I had a transmission jack to use, I didnt use it, it was a huge PITA to manuever under the truck, IMO
Trans jack is great if you are working on a full size truck

Also you better be sure its your rear main seal thats leaking! the oil filter mount is right back there and the O ring on those suckers is known to leak, also the valve covers at the rear will leak oil

I hope you are also planning to replace the clutch and slave cylinder while you have it out

stock tires = ramps are your best bet
Also dont be lazy, it will actually save you time to remove the exhaust y pipe completely

I had my 5 speed in and out of my truck 4 times in one summer before I finally went automatic
I have done this a "few" times in my day (like 20+)
 






Guys thanks for the great replies. I added some info below...

"Also you better be sure its your rear main seal thats leaking! the oil filter mount is right back there and the O ring on those suckers is known to leak, also the valve covers at the rear will leak oil"

I just put new heads on so my valve cover gaskets are new. I pressure-washed the underside of the motor and trans to check this. As you said I have seen leaks from the oil filter gasket also but I am certain this is the rear main, especially after I cleaned it, I crawled under there and spent time looking and the oil can't be coming from anyplace else.

"I hope you are also planning to replace the clutch and slave cylinder while you have it out"

Truck has 210k miles on it. I had a new clutch and slave installed at 140k but I will definitely check it while it's apart. Also my trans is getting notchy and grindy and sometimes it is hard to shift from one gear to the next so I am sure it has a lot of wear in it. Once in awhile it gets stuck in first gear. The shift lever is all sloppy also. If I can find a salvage trans with low miles for cheep $$ I am going to install it because I don't have time to rebuild this one.

stock tires = ramps are your best bet
Also dont be lazy, it will actually save you time to remove the exhaust y pipe completely
Thanks for the heads-up on these - I will proceed accordingly. THanks again!!! Pete
 






hey, i may be able to help on this one

I bought my son a Chrysler New Yorker Salon and only problem was trainy needed replacing. for 12 bucks i put in this stuff in my transmission (in a white bottle by lucas?) you buy it at schucks. it worked awesome. You could hardly tell that i had a problem after 3 days.
 






For stock height, ramps might not be enough to roll out the tranny on the transmission jack. You'll get away with less lift if you have some other way of sliding it out closer to the ground, even if its by putting in on some cardboard sheets.

As for the problems, the slave cylinders on these is famous for going bad and makes it hard to shift gears, especially into first. You might save yourself another tranny pull by replacing the slave cyl now with a factory one, even if the clutch is fine.

The sloppy shifter is fixed with new shifter bushings, another dealer item. Get two. Once you have the tranny out, pull the shifter base, and be careful to lift it only upwards..and slowly. The old bushings will typically be there, but cracked or crumbled to pieces. Stick some kind of rag down there so the pieces don't fall into the transmission when you'll getting the pieces out, a screwdriver and needle nose pliers work great. Replace the bushings with the same washer and spring washer arrangement and re-assemble. It tightens up the shifting a lot!

I agree on the Y-pipe, too. It takes some elbow grease to get the bolts out of the exhaust manifolds, but take your time so they don't break! It saves a ton of hassle when removing and installing the tranny back into position.
 






I wouldn't wanna do it now but i HAVE in my younger days put a Trans in by myself without a jack!!... I would roll the trans up on my belly under the truck and use my legs to help me set it in the dial pins........Done a 350 Olds and a 350 chevy that way
 






I wouldn't wanna do it now but i HAVE in my younger days put a Trans in by myself without a jack!!... I would roll the trans up on my belly under the truck and use my legs to help me set it in the dial pins........Done a 350 Olds and a 350 chevy that way

thoes where the days.. lol

As for lift the higher the you go the better off you are as long as it's safe! If i'm not using a car lift usually go the route of 4 cinder blocks at each corner with jack stands on top. lay down 2 blocks one direction lay down 2 the oppisite at each corner. I use 4 b/c i'm a fattie.. haha the tranny install on the ex is not to bad to do in an afternoon with all the right parts on hand. ps when you have you're ypipe out do not lose the donuts or crush them. I still can not find replacements as well good time to yank out the o2 and replace.. as was a grand time to remove some items from inside the cat. depending on you're local laws. good luck.
 






4 cinder blocks at each corner with jack stands on top

Seriously?
People have been killed doing this, cinder blocks do NOT work well under cars, they crumble EASY!

use rail road ties or dense wood if you have to, they even allow the feet of the jack stands to dig in, giving a bit more stability.

Cinder blocks + you underneath = Darwin award
 






I've used the solid blocks (patio blocks, I think they're called). They might crack but don't disintegrate like the cinder blocks with the two hollow sections. I might think twice about this going forward...

Mike
 






solid or not, concrete is a NO NO
dont worry I have done it too, but years and years ago

recently my family lost a friend due to a Jack o ring failing.... I will not get under my truck at all unless it is supported properly, not even for a second!
 






Yikes, sorry to hear that. Very scary indeed. I always use jackstands under my Explorer, cars, etc. because my Dad always told me not to trust jacks.

Are you sitting down for this? I used the blocks under the front tires of my RV because I didn't have a big enough jack (made makeshift ramps using 1x6 boards and the blocks). Did this several times for oil changes, tranny filters, etc...

Mike
 






the question sounds weird until you go through the rest of it. concrete will fail at the worst possible moments usually when you are under it and when it fails the pieces will shoot out like bullets.
 






Guy I graduated high school with died 2 years later using cinder blocks on his car.
$20 bucks is worth a life, that Harbor store has a pair of 3 ton stands for $18.99 with coupon.

At least use a ditch deep enough to get the transmission out if no jack stands.
 






oh man I would LOVE to have a pit in my garage floor... and a lift!!
 






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