How to: How I changed my 05's Front Wheel Bearing

[jakedrew]

i am in the same boat. Checked prices everywhere.

I will probably get the OEM one. As that way i know the ABS plug is right. I read one story on a guy had to re wire it. could have been a el cheapo one though.


good luck and keep us upated!

 

[etobicokian]

Just make sure to opt for one with the sensor included. I replaced mine with OEM hubs only because I found a seller offering them for $100/ea for new Motorcraft's so I hopped on it. Timken's are fine as well, beware of the eBay chinese junk that's floating around on the web

Do you have contact info (PM would be great also) for your supplier? I installed used hubs, but am afraid that they might be on their way out also. Didn't realize that hubs are glued/sealed in and it takes quite a bit of hammering to get them out. Can't see how they wouldn't be damaged in removal. Oh, and yes mine is an 06 4X4. Thanks.

 

[amxrick]

I Got a quick question on the Hub/Knuckle. I know that the whole Hub assy comes together but no mention of the connection to the knuckle. Is there some kind of race type part inside the knuckle? Or possible is there some kind of solid connection betw the hub and the Knuckle and the axle spline mates inside the hub? Just something I wanted to ask before I start the work just in case I need to also buy other parts.

 

[DLinkOZ]

The hub bolts to the knuckle. Then the axle splines mate into splines in the hub.

 

[amxrick]

Thanks

 

[DLinkOZ]

Here is an exploded view (assuming 2002 is the same as 2004, or close).

 

[mikeinri]

Great write-up, helped a lot.

Broke BOTH ABS sensors trying to get them out. How DO you remove those to re-use them?

I had a bear of a time with those bolts on the first side, second side went a lot quicker. Lost most of my time hammering away (I was trying to save money and didn't get the slide hammer).

So, I'm 1/2 done, now I need to wait for the new bearings with sensors. My local AutoZone had the non-sensor Timkens available, so I bought them, now I need to return them. They claim the ones with sensors are special-order...

Also, went to the local Ford dealer for axle nuts and bearing bolts, they wouldn't even show them to me, told me the service guys re-use all the old hardware!!!

Mike

 

[mikeinri]

BTW, 30 mm socket on the hub nut seemed a bit loose. Not sure if it's because it was a 12-point (all that was available), but I would have liked it to fit better. Are we positive that 30 mm is correct?

Mike

 

[DLinkOZ]

30mm on my 04 fits very well. Perhaps you've got a manufacturing oddity with your socket?

 

[majorhavoc]

I eventually got both hub assemblies done. Then some guy runs a red light while my wife was driving it and totals her '04. She's ok, nothing broken just a few bruises.

I still have my '03 Sportrac that needs done. Any easier than the '04?

 

[DLinkOZ]

Just finished my wife's front right hub, really an easy job if you lay everything out beforehand so there are no surprises. I took some pics - link - one of them is my work tray. If you get everything you see there, plus a jack and stands, you're set. Last few are the old parts, spinning that bearing by hand feels like a massive pepper grinder, but it's solid and wasn't about to fall apart (so that's good).

You read about so many issues, but either they're rare or I got the factory freak as everything came off easy and went together easy, even those 3 flange bolts (THANK YOU for the hint about the deep offset wrench). The only things I want to point out is a combination of two things previously mentioned, but I don't think the issues were connected together properly for a novice to understand:

If it's the factory hub, there's likely gasket material (like RTV) between the hub and the knuckle. It's got a really good bond. Now, if you also use the hub puller you can borrow from the big box auto parts stores, this poses an issue. Be mindful of what the puller is doing - that is are you pulling the hub or pushing the axle? If the former, then you're golden. If the latter, then don't do too much. I worked a prybar around the perimeter of the seal and tapped it in lightly with a hammer. Then I cranked a little on the puller, then alternated. Eventually I broke the seal and was able to rock/pull the hub off with my hands (probably didn't even need the puller, like I said I got the factory freak where it came apart like a dream). Just wanted to throw in my 2 cents to help make sure no one uses that tool to over-compress the CV joints.

 

[gmben]

Way to go. It makes a huge difference with new hubs. The nice condition of your vehicle definately contributed to it being a fairly easy job. Keep it that way if you can.

 

[Denny347]

I just changed the driver front bearing assembly yesterday and I bought the pictured box wrench for the job. I tell you what, it saved me LOTS of pain. It was really a straight forward job with no surprises. I will probably do the passenger side in the next month or so, it can't be far from failing if the driver side was as bad as it was.

I just wanted to refresh this thread. I just changed my front left hub/bearing assembly on my 03 4X4 and this guide did help me.

I wanted to mention that by far, THE HARDEST part was removing the 3 bolts on the backside of the spindle that hold the hub assembly on.

I found that the best tool to use to remove them and reach them is a 15mm deep offset 12pt box end Craftsman wrench (13mm on one side, 15mm on the other). It was the correct thickness on the walls of the box end to get in there. This is what it looks like:

I went through about every set of sockets/ratchets that you could imagine. I also have air tools, everything from 1/4" to 3/4" and could not get in there on the bolts with it. You have to use pure strength to do it. The tapered end of the axle where it comes in from the backside of the spindle, created an awkward area that you cannot get a socket into at all...so you can only get to them from the side. They are too recessed to get a regular combination open end wrench in on.

A tip I will also add, is to simply turn the wheels to get to the bolts easier....I found that I didn't have to hunch over very much to get in on them (once I used the correct wrench on them). Ford puts a yellow thread locker on the bolts, which is VERY HARD TO REMOVE....I had to wrap a towel around the wrench and with all of my might loosen them. So much that they were "popping" as they were coming out, I was just waiting for the head to shear off. I guess that's what 126k miles will do on the drive components! (I'm a 250lb guy who can bench over 300lbs....just to give you a clue of how much strength it took!)

I ordered a Ford OEM complete front hub/bearing kit....part # 4L2Z 1104 AA which included 5 new bolts (3 for the hub and 2 for the caliper) already with that yellow threadlock applied. The new bolts went in very easy, 75% of the way by hand. Hope to never have to remove this again!

I can confirm that the axle nut is 30mm, I was able to pull mine off with an air impact wrench. I would recommend getting a jaw puller to get the hub off the axle splines, I did not have one but was able to tap it free while keeping the axle from over-extending.

FINAL RESULT: The grinding is gone in the left front. My problem was simple that in turns you could feel/hear the grind at just about any speed. The noise reduction and quality of driving now is much better.

I found this hub unit on eBay brand new for $100 shipped, for an OEM Ford kit....they are $180+tax from my local Ford dealer. It is worth getting the Ford kit just because it comes with the new bolts, there is no way I would have re-used the bolts I took out of there, after putting easily over 200lbs of force on each head to pull it off....they were pretty marked up.

Best of luck to anyone who does this....once I had all of my tools, it was about a 3 hour job for me. Air tools are pretty much useless on this job with the exception of taking off the wheels and axle nut...you won't be able to get anything other than a deep offset wrench on those bolts! Get one...it makes the job very possible!

 

[vetto]

BTW, 30 mm socket on the hub nut seemed a bit loose. Not sure if it's because it was a 12-point (all that was available), but I would have liked it to fit better. Are we positive that 30 mm is correct?

Mike

2004 Explorer 150K

Just did mine, this post is a life (and money) saver.

That deep offset was the best tip!

Seemed like the 30mm was a little wobbly, but did the job and held up to 180ft/lbs of retorque.

Bought NTB hubs at Advanced, $132. When the didn't come in when promised, they upgraded me to the National ($200) which he had 2 of in stock. We opened the National box at the counter and I showed him the sensor cable attached, the three mounting bolts, and two caliper bolts! He was impressed.

Replaced the left at 50k, and now again at 150k. It was definately bad, felt like a washboard turning in there....the right I just did for general preventive maintenance, and it was still pretty good.

Why would the left go through 2 in 150k while the right was still good?

 

[thepotroast]

Alright we got this stickied! Thanks mods

 

[ShawnTRD]

Should be under routine maintenance. Had both fronts go bad, and one rear so far. Less then 90k miles.

 

[mjp3262]

I did both of mine yesterday. Jaw puller actually pushes the axle and boot in so you have room to get at the 3 bolts securing the hub assembly. Really not that dificult at that point. In fact, i removed and replaced the 2nd assembly in 30 minutes ! Here's a tip, when installing new hub, push in on axle shaft and hand tighten the 3 hub bolts. You'll be surprised how far you can get them in as long as you keep hub loose, after that, it was about 1 and a half to 2 turns to tighten completely. Good Luck

 

[mjp3262]

Oh BTW, got my bearings on eBay, Made in USA. for $59.35 each . Check them out here.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0634499787&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT

 

[ludvino]

Newbie to the site here.
Anyone did just the bearings instead of changing the entire hub assembly? Would you recommend doing this at all? I have an 04 Mountaineer, and left side is making the all familiar change-the-bearings noise. Thanks in advance.

 

[clarks2001]

I think most people would agree that just replacing the whole assembly is faster and less problematic. I don't suggest doing just the bearing because the hub (where the bearings seat into) could of sustained damage from the worn/bad bearings. So you are better off just getting a new assembly