How to: 2nd Gen Blend Door Quick Fix | Page 8 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: 2nd Gen Blend Door Quick Fix

just wanted to say thanks for this tip. I had this problem on a 1998 explorer that the previous owner tried to pull a fast one on me and not tell me this problem existed. I took it to the mechanic to run a $39.50 A/C test and they let me know that my blend door was broken. he found a couple of pieces of evidence where the previous owner had tried to fix this by rigging the actuator module. I followed the tips and cut the door into the spot behind the glove box, had my daughter reach in (she has much smaller hands than my fat ones), and she took in a piece of duct tape and taped the door shut. The entire process took about 15 minutes and I have now nicknamed my new truck "The Igloo"! I live in south texas so I only need the heater for about 1 month out of the year so this is tip is a god-send for me. I had nothing to lose because even cutting the box was a no brainer. the guys at the A/C shop were going to replace it anyway, so even if I messed it up, no harm-no foul.

genius tip!! you just saved me about 800 dollars.
 



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The actuator on mine is broken, and I was given the $1200 quote. Fat chance, but mine still allows cold air using Max A/C, so I'm happy. Living in the South, about all I need anyhow (actually, I prefer to run Vent wide open instead of A/C, but hey it's broken).
 






NM. Ruled out the Blend Door Issue.
 






Might be having this blend door issue, I get plenty of heat, then when I switch to max ac I get some cooling, vent temp go down to 70 degree with thermometer, can your door be stuck in a position where you are getting a little cold air and hot air at the same time and then when you switch to heat it is able to go to the full open position for heat, but then maybe only go closed half way and then get stuck when going to max ac??????? Thanks for the help
 






Holy Crap! I have lived without A/C for two years because I didn't want to spend any money to repair it. After reading this post, I cut the hole, reached in and opened the door, and now I have cold A/C. I spent about 10 minutes max. Thanks
 






I tried to pin-in-the-actuator method. It works for now, but we're going to avoid using the temp control. Here are my thoughts/experience on the process.

Review:
- This method is highly dependent on how the blend door's hinge 'socket' broke. Mine broke facing the rear of the vehicle (so the square part is in the front). The fix still worked, but...
- I hear a creaking sound every time i change the temperature. This leads me to believe this fix won't last long. This makes sense because...
- The blend door hinge socket has already broken. This method simply stresses the intact part of the socket more. Since the plastic was in bad shape and breakable, this solution pretty much guarantees the fix won't last long, unless you're exceptionally lucky.

Techniques:
- Taking off the actuator was sort of a pain. I found fairly good technique: looking at the actuator, the left pin has a small vertical space to its left, just enough to slip in a flathead screwdriver. Push the screwdriver down, prying up the actuator. Once it pops, the right pin now has space for you to slip in flathead, prying up the right side. Popping the right rear pin is fairly simple, just slip in the screwdriver and pry. Holding down the other corners with your free hand helps a lot, to give the screwdriver some leverage. This is especially true for the rear left pin, which was by far the hardest one to remove. Remember to set your heat to maximum first!
- Use a thicker nail as shown in the instructions. I used a thin one, and the exposed part snapped clean off!
- Drill the hole far enough down the shaft, away from the actuator. This may allow the pin to get better leverage on the blend door. I drilled one too near the actuator and the pin was pretty ineffective.
- After reinstalling the actuator, you don't have to turn on the blower right away. I recommend first adjusting the temp control with the blower off, just so you can listen to actuator turn and hear the blend door turning. The actuator still works with the blower off.

I had to drill 3 or 4 times and experiment with quite a few pins before I was successful, and I'm not sure how long the fix will work. I'm grateful for the instructions given, but I'd have to say that I wish I tried hole-cutting solution first.
 






so easy a caveman could do it

for those of you who like me, dont want to shell out 1200$ to fix this blend door issue, you can do this. im writing it in as simple a way as i can for those, who like me, arent very mechanically inclined.

open glove box, and push the sides in to drop the box down as far as possible. you will see a big black plastic box. inside of that box is the blend door, and your heater core (looks like a miniture radiator).

take a razor knife and on the farthest left side of that box, cut a square hole big enough to get your hand in (only cut 3 sides of the square though so that you can just bend the plastic down out of your way and put it back in place when finished). now that it's open, you can see the heater core, but not the blend door. the blend door is located around the back left side of the heater core. reach your right hand in, with your thumb down, so the palm of your hand is facing the passenger side of the truck. when you reach behind the heater core, you will feel the blend door, and you can swing it open or closed. if you want your air conditioning to work, open the door all the way. if you want your heat to work, close the door all the way. after you have adjusted the door how you want it, blend the plastic you cut to get your hand in, back to it's normal position and tape it up with some duct or thick masking tape.

unfortunatley you can only have hot or cold doing it this way, but it saves you 1200$ and a lot of headaches trying to fix this by pulling the dash.

for where i live, i need only a.c. in the summer, and only heat in the winter, so i just go in and change the door position twice a year. the original job takes about 5 minutes, then at the beginning of summer or winter when i go in to change the door position, it takes me about 3 minutes, and most of that time is spent removing the tape and retaping it.

i hope this helps someone.
 






what a fix!!! Have been riding around with no air & a HOT summer, hated to pay the big repair. Cut the hole with a utility knife.....it can be done...be careful.....followed the pic and cut big enough to fit hand. Positioned hand as described and moved the door......the air now blows COLD and I'll move the door opposite for heat. In my case, the plastic cracked into many pieces so I just covered with duct tape. THANKS for the great suggestions and the perfect instructions!! Saved me a ton!!
 






Dont touch the blend door

I have the same probelm. This is how i get around it.

1. Locate the valve that controls heater taps under the hood

2. When you engine is off, the tap will be closed.

3. When your engine starts the AC system releases the valve to the open position which is why hot air poors into the cabin.

4. Before you start your engine, apply a ZIP CABLE TIE to the tap to keep it closed.

5. Start your engine and turn on AC. Not hot water means no hot air. The AC works perfect.

6. In winter, remove the ZIP CABLE TIE and you have heat again.

I have been using this system for two years and its the best and simplest way to control the heat coming in.

What i would like is for someone to invent a manual cable that goes from the dash the the heater tap valve to control it from the drivers seat.

First person to design a simple version is a dead set legend.
 






Blend door fix

Thought i had a problem with blend turned out it was the motor not the door. I am ahappy camper!!!
 






for those of you who like me, dont want to shell out 1200$ to fix this blend door issue, you can do this. im writing it in as simple a way as i can for those, who like me, arent very mechanically inclined.

open glove box, and push the sides in to drop the box down as far as possible. you will see a big black plastic box. inside of that box is the blend door, and your heater core (looks like a miniture radiator).

take a razor knife and on the farthest left side of that box, cut a square hole big enough to get your hand in (only cut 3 sides of the square though so that you can just bend the plastic down out of your way and put it back in place when finished). now that it's open, you can see the heater core, but not the blend door. the blend door is located around the back left side of the heater core. reach your right hand in, with your thumb down, so the palm of your hand is facing the passenger side of the truck. when you reach behind the heater core, you will feel the blend door, and you can swing it open or closed. if you want your air conditioning to work, open the door all the way. if you want your heat to work, close the door all the way. after you have adjusted the door how you want it, blend the plastic you cut to get your hand in, back to it's normal position and tape it up with some duct or thick masking tape.

unfortunatley you can only have hot or cold doing it this way, but it saves you 1200$ and a lot of headaches trying to fix this by pulling the dash.

for where i live, i need only a.c. in the summer, and only heat in the winter, so i just go in and change the door position twice a year. the original job takes about 5 minutes, then at the beginning of summer or winter when i go in to change the door position, it takes me about 3 minutes, and most of that time is spent removing the tape and retaping it.

i hope this helps someone.

OK, I drove my wounded duck for a year with oh so much heat in the summer and a wonderfully operational air conditioner in the dead of winter. But, my daughter has my ex on an extended loan... last week slc had its first good snow. she was on the freeway and nearly @sspacked someone because she couldnt clear the windshield. I read the above directions and I swear to bhudda, it took less than ten minutes. I cut the box open with a dremel tool, pulled the door to the forward postion and wah lah! Heat!! i duct taped the box shut, next summer, I'll remove the tape, push the door back and spend the 1200 on a new browning. You guys rock!! thank you so much!
 






Blend door actuator (electonic HVAC)

im not sure if anyone posted this or not because im at work and did not want to read through 8 pages of posts..haha


i found in my 99 mounty that my blend door actuator was bad....it was held on with three 8mm (5/16) screws

i used a slim ratchet (pkaty192 is the snap on part number) to remove these three screws very easily

i lifted the actuator straight up (because of the peg that turns the blend door) and once removed we tested to see if this peg moved and i did not....indicating that the actuator was infact bad

to get heat for now (until i could order the new actuator) i took a 1/4" ratchet and moved the blend door by hand
the ratchet fits in where the peg sits

NO CUTTING NEEDED and it took maybe 10 minutes


hope this helps!
 






Explorer blend door - click - click - click

My 02 Explorer same thing / blend door, The ford dealers on Long Island , New York wanted $1100 said have to remove whole dash etc. My V8 has 200 k miles on it I wasnt gonna put that $ into it. So i did some reading. Lowered the glove box reached in with right hand - next to what feels all the way by by the A/C controler next to a metel bracket is a lever. With truck started and heater doing its normal click of death i reached in felt for lever that was vibrating and PRESTO door moved into position heat started to come out and its totaly hot & fine. Took a total of 4 minuted to locate and hit switch / lever over.. DONE - PRESTO --- THANK YOU SO MUCH EVERYBODY...
 






Tried the method in the original post on my '98 Explorer to just get the cold turned to heat manually. I cut through with a utility knife and slid the door over, worked like a charm.

I'll replace the door eventually, but at least I can alternate now.
 






Hello everyone,I am new to this forum,I had a ? about my heater just in case I didn't get the job done today.When I first got my '98 ex sport almost 5 years ago the heater worked then it stopped.The A/C blows cold air but the heater also does....well did.It has always blown good hard air but wouldn't heat. The last few years it was like it never got hot but was a tad bit warmer than the a/c and only if I was driving at a high speed.The faster I went the warmer it would be but it never got nowhere near warm enough to warm a frogs butt.I was reading these forums last night and went outside and dropped the glove box down and my actuator has clips that holds it there so I kind of pushed up on it and moved it.I turned the heater from hot to cold and could never hear the blend door opening or closing and wasn't getting heat,well my truck was kind of getting hotter than normal yesterday so I checked the water and was real near to being out of water. Well I put what I had left of 50/50 engine coolant (almost a half a bottle) and filled the rest with water.Although it's in the 70's here it felt like a hair dryer on my hand after that.I flushed out the radiator a couple years ago if that, and redone the coolant and it didn't make my heater work as good as it does now.I don't know(like in the past) the colder it is outside the colder my heater will blow but I can't remember the last time (if ever) my heater has blown this hot. It almost burns your hand. Anyway I guess my ? is if the heater starts blowing colder the colder it is outside what could it be? Also I have the vents like we all do in the console that blow in the back and it blows somewhat warm but nowhere near what the front does,any idea's what that could be? Sorry for the short novel and thank you all any help is appreciated greatly....Happy Turkey Day.
 






I did the kit and it works fine. My problem was the door post for sure.
It isn't a 5 minute job though, at least for me. The supplied silver tape left something to be desired. Eventually I epoxied the piece I cut out back into the HVAC box.
 






hi im new to this but i have a 97 explorer 5.0 and i have a heat issue, when i turn the heat on it just blows cold, obviously i did it when the truck is warm lol but i dnt know if the blend door is stuck open, or if its an actuator, or valve. the hoses goin threw the firewall and into the heater core r both hot, so im guessing maybe it is the door stuck open. HELP? its cold and i have no heat lol
 






Hey guys, thanks for this thread!

I did as suggested, cut the hole, etc... put my hand in with the thumb down, felt all around and I'll be damned if I can feel any kind of door. What the???

Anybody got any bright ideas? I'm not sure what's going on and I'm looking at 13 degrees next week!

HALP!

Thanks

Oh, my EX is a 96, V8 XLT if that make a difference...

Oh, and I hear NO clicking of any sort. Blows cool air all the time! Sometimes it will blow lukewarm air which then (within 5 minutes) turns to cold air!
 






Do I have a blend door problem ?

My heater selector only blows on defrost no matter which setting I select. Is this a blend door issue or something totally different. I can't get heat blowing on me or down on the feet, just out of the defrost.
 



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