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How to: 2nd Gen Blend Door Quick Fix

How do you remove the blend door?

I have made my cut behind the glove compartment door. I can get my hand on the blend door. It swing easily open and close, but I can not get clearance to remove the door. Is there a trick or tool to remove the door and put a new one back?
 



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Shorty65

Yes...... but you need to cut it out from the bottom, not the side. Use a utility knife with a roofer blade and cut around the doors pivot point, but leave the forward edge in tact. The door can then drop down once you open the plenum (like a flap). Then just put a NEW door back in. Alligning the door to the motor is a bit trickey, but you should feel the motor's shaft slip into the door.... then close the flap.

Using a utility knife does not remove any material so you can mend your cuts back together with an old soldering iron.

Then just close up the other hole you made, nobody will see it anyway.

Best of luck
 






I have a 97 explorer limited with the auto climate control.
I could hear a clicking noise from the dash turns out it was
the motor on top that moves the blend flap. I took that motor
apart and found that the smaller gear inside has broken teeth.
My blend flap door sticks. Are these spring loaded? With the fan
on full blast I cant even move the blend flap by hand at all.
 






I have a 96 explorer and I have a question about the blend door. I cannot adjust the temp, if I put on the heat and turn it all the way to cold it is still hot. And the only way I get A/C is if I put it on MAX. If I turn it to regular A/C it blows hot air. So is the the blend door or something else?
 






I think either your blend flap motor on top of the box has either stripped gears or the actual blend flap door is broken. It sounds like its stuck in between hot and cold.
 






Do you think I should try and take of the motor or just cut the plastic to get a better look at what is going on?
 






Perhaps I Have Another Issue...

Wow...Cut, chop and splice! I was looking at the described issue that is being addressed and I'm not sure if I have the same concern.
I was told that in my case that it is a similar issue with the blend door, however I have full control of the heating or ac but the air will only blow from the defrost vents. Is this a related issue or is there an ATC head recalibration procedure available. Or is there something else I should know about?
Thanks for your help!
Dave
 






worked like a charm

I did the cut, and pushed it shut. I did have to change the heat setting to 90, as the door kept trying to close, even when i had it forced closed. so i set it to 90, pushed the door shut, set it to max AC, and i guess i faked it out. its not continuously clunking to keep trying to shut the door. its May, weathers warm and i got AC.

NOTE : Make a big hole to get you hand in there. hand got pretty scuffed up
 






there is a better way

I did a writeup on this issue last year.

http://www.grufmanbil.se/mektips/Explorer-varmereglage95-01.pdf

Text in swedish, but pictures speak for themselves.

Google translation:

RUFMAN BIL AB BUY ONLINE AT: WWW.GRUFMANBIL.SE
SERVICE & RESERVCDELAR
Tel. 08-580 182 50 Extra Page
All texts and photos © Grufman Bil AB 2007.
Re-Issuing, duplication, copying or other reproduction of this Instruction text or images may not be made without written permission from Grufman Bil AB.
Special tools, purchase of BBTools AB. www.bbtools.se or 0708-703110
Fix Broken heat controls on Ford Explorer 1995-2001
1. Flip down the glove to its lowest position (hold the heels of the page will
it down
2. Look up. In the top you will see a white box with an electric cable. Make sure your car's engine is
switched on, turn on the heat control in hot mode, make sure it will really
edits hot air from air emissions. In doing so, turn off the engine and pull out
power cable
3. Push the screwdriver between the House and the white box and strip away the
(it is on the plastic clips on 4 points), cut carefully so as to release the full
4. Remove the box.
5. Look down into the hole where the axle box gone down. For this you need a flashlight and
an inspection mirror. You should note that the "hole" is split and that the
left is half shaft and the hole is shaped like a triangle. Petaling off any
cracked, surplus shaft screwdriver. Remember to glue together the sitting
left - it is run.
6. Put the box in screw anvil and drill a hole in the box axis approximately 1cm from
end as depicted in the picture in this regard. It is important that you get to the proper angle,
ie to be released into the corner of "D-axis" apparently.
7. Tag drill bit you used and press it into the hole you just drilled. Cut as
that you leave about 3-4mm on each side of the axis, see picture! Add like a small
limdutt so that the drill bit remains.
8. Put the box on top of the plenary and ensure that the drill bit is so short, so
that it is free of edges, and that it does not receive when you get the box.
You may need to try a few times before you get to it. You may
connect the cable and rotate the shaft slightly by turning the heat slider
that it will fit perfectly.
9. Now that box is istoppad then just to test that you get cold again.
10. Fold back the glove. Have a cool summer! :)
Tell your friends about the Ford mektipsen on GrufmanBil.se
• 2mm drill
• Drill
• Large flat screwdriver
• Small flat screwdriver
• Strong sidavbitare
• Inspection Mirror
• Flashlight
Tools you need:
Many Explorer owner notes in the summer time the heat slider no longer works,
but is in hot mode constant, regardless of how to turn the heat control. There are
two solutions to this problem. One is to change the whole fläktplenumet, which means
that the entire dashboard to be fitted out, the second solution is not equal 100%,
but certainly easier.
The reason for the heat control is no longer working is that the damper regulating
airflow between the hot and cold have been ruptured. The damper is operated by a small electric motor with a
D-shaped shaft, and the material of the damper is unfortunately not strong enough for it to be
keep in year after year.
 






haha google translation is just to funny. Limdutt = small drop of glue. Sidavbitare = wire cutter
 






Well, you could add me to this list of satisfied customers!

I just did the blend door trick. Cut 3 sides in front, reached in and adjusted. Holy crap what a tight squeeze. My large hand barely fit in there. I have a small cut to remind me of today's work. Only tricky part was figuring out which direction on the blend door was hot or cold. If it's listed somewhere in the thread, I missed it. But, if you move it to the right you get cold, if you move it to the left you get heat. I simply tested with it running on. I sealed everything up with duct tape and now it's good to go. I just hope the door stays as is inside.

FINALLY... I have ice cold air conditioning. Yaaay!!! My girlfriend and dog will be happy this summer! :)
 






Rick can you send me a pic of what I need to take off in the engine compartment so I dont mess something up? Thanks
 






heater vs air cooling

I just put a water valve on the hoses under the hood. Close means no hot water to heater hence no heat. Open valve and hot water to core. Limit amount of hot water controls heat in winter. In summer if I am too cold I just turn of AC switch until I am warm again. To cool off I turn AC switch on again. A control Valve, 4" hose,:usa: and hose clamps about $10.00 at Home Depot, etc.. Takes less than an hour to install. Do when engine is cool since you will lose some coolant when installing valve.
 






The description is perfectly accurate for a 97. I didn't even bother trying to just cut three edges. I just got a utility knife hot with a lighter and cut a hole. Reach all the way in and just pull the door closed or open. My 1997 needed a recharge too, but the blend door was the bigger problem. Just duct taping over the hole is good enough. No need to try and replace the plastic. Great quick fix.
 






Vouch for heatertreater.net

I used heatertreater.net before discovering this forum and thread. It cost me more money, obviously, but I did want to vouch for them -- their solution worked perfectly.
 






Just did this yesterday worked great!
What I found out was in mine when you turn the TEMP knob the door opens to let hot air in but does not close to let AC work. I found this out by accident after I had taped the cut out door back in place I could hear the door open but then it didn't close. I now have AC in normal and high now i just have to get to the auto parts store and get a freon recharge kit.
 






How would I know if I need freon? I live in Yuma AZ and the temp is usually around 105 my a/c seems to be cold at the vents but it doesnt make it back to me in the drivers seat. Any suggestions? Thanks for your time. Mike
 






Any A/C Experts Out There?

:(
How would I know if I need freon? I live in Yuma AZ and the temp is usually around 105 my a/c seems to be cold at the vents but it doesnt make it back to me in the drivers seat. Any suggestions? Thanks for your time. Mike
 






Well mine blows cool but not really cold I cant feel it if i sit all the way back in the drivers seat. My wifes car feels icy compared to my explorer so I figure it needs freon the compressor seems fine its just not that cold, when its in the 90's it doesnt cool the truck that much on high.
 



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Thats where I,m at too, I just wonder if you can actually overfill or will it stop when its full? Thanks for your time
Also which fix did you go with?
 






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