How to: 2nd Gen Blend Door Quick Fix

[Pontisteve]

Pull the glove box open, squeeze the sides, and it will pop out and hang down. When you hear the clicking noise, try to put your hand on top of the actuator. It sits on top of the AC box. See if you can feel the clicking in either the motor or the box.

Tough to tell if the clicking could be from the motor or the box. It could be either I suppose. The actuators do occasionally go bad. (Dorman makes aftermarket replacements for certain models). The blend doors certainly go bad too. And since the actuator drives the blend door, it's tough to say where the noise would be coming from, if it's coming from either of the two at all.

Step one is to find out where the clicking noise is coming from. If there, step two would be to figure out if its the actuator or the door. That would probably require VERY gently removing the actuator to see if it moves as you control the AC hot/cold knob.

 

[SkeeterDon]

Okay, I pulled the actuator off. Three screws what a pita, but go them out.

Plugged the back in and move the temp control back and forth, the acutator did not move whatsoever, air was blowing cool and not hot. turned air off then back on then started blowing hot. Reached up on top of the plenum an felt the tope of the blend door and not break. I was able to turn the blend door very easy. Turned it one way and turn on AC and only heat. turned it off and turned it the other way and cold air blowing. Testing the actuator again and no movement. So this leads me to beleive that it is the actuator. Do you all agree?

If so, best place to get one.

Thanks,
Donnie

 

[Pontisteve]

Hmmm... mine tested about the same way. Now hearing yours too, I'm not sure if we're looking at 2 bad actuators, or are we not understanding something about the design. Hopefully others will chime in.

I'm thinking it can't be rocket science. Obviously, this is the hot/cold door, right? So changing temperature would have to cause this actuator to move the blend door. So if it doesn't move when you change the temp dial, I'm thinking it must be a bad actuator.

Can anyone confirm this actuator does normally move if it's plugged in, and you're holding it in your hand?

FYI, be careful about not cracking that blend door when you put it back together!!! Be gentle. You may want to get an inspection mirror and flashlight, and check the condition of the blend door's hinge at and near the top of the blend door. That's how I found mine was indeed cracked, but not shot. Moving things around, I ended up dropping a small piece of the cracked plastic into the box, so now I'll be fixing the blend door before winter. :-(

Rock auto or Ebay. Check the Dorman website for part numbers. I was told they have a blend door for the manual A/C Explorers, but not for the Auto A/C systems. They have actuators for either I think, but they are not the same part number from what I recall.

 

[SkeeterDon]

One would think its not rocket science. I did a sear on the part number, F87H-19E616-EB, and i found the following link regards to testing:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219925

But one would think that by adjsuting the temp cold/hot that it would turn.

Rock Auto does have the part for 23.79, Dorman part# 604201, but at first looking at the pic and comparing the one in my hand, that do not look similar. But I did read one post a while back that it comes with a section that can be used on other models. In the pic you can see it just snaps into the housing, remove the housing and then the screw holes are lined up in the one I just pulled fromt he vehicle. Not a bad price,still.

I wish I new what pins to tough with a meter or dc power to determine if it is indeed the actuator.

Any one else?

 

[SkeeterDon]

Okay, update. Took the actuator apart and the clicking noise is because the small gear that transfers from horizontal to vertical, first gear from motor, has broken teeth. So, definatley need a new actuator or at least a gear.

However, I did apply power to the motor and it spun in both directions. So the next question is it the board in the actuator or from the temp controller (pentometer) to the board. I think I have narrowed it down to the two. But I do need a new actuator or gear

May try that test in my previous post to see what code comes up.

Donnie

 

[SkeeterDon]

another update:

Checked the continuity of the pins and tried to follow the other post regarding pin selection, yeah right LOL. Did my own. Since the other post stated that I should have had continunity on mutliple pins. I did my test as follows:

Set actuator as it was on the plenum. Two rows of pins, four on each row. So making the assumption and reading left to right, top left is Pin 1 and bottom right is pin 8. I have continuity on Pins 1,2 and pins 3,7 only. No continuity on any of the others.

I now feel that it is the board in the actuator, because of the clicking the other day proved that power is getting to the actuator. If you think about it, it may be no different than the radio issue, board getting to hot and the solder connections get hairline cracks. It does get warm especially when the heater is blowing. So the clicking may have been enought to further break the solder connections so there is no continuity.

I will purchase an actuator and test to see what the results might be. Going to call ford and see how much they want for one. I am somewhat impatient when I am on the verge of a breakthrough and have to wait on a part LOL.

Another update LOL: Called my local ford company and they have one in stock for $55. Mmm have to think on this one lol.

Update to the update LOL: Cost is as follows

Ford Dealer Ship - $55 available
Autozone - $30 available (meaning then can get it today)
Advanced - $37 available (meaning then can get it today)
Oreilly's - $37 special order
A-line - $40 available (meaning then can get it today) (motorcraft part)
Rock Auto - $29 includes freight

So, ALine is a local Autoparts store and not a national chain, so I will order it from them and I get a motorcraft part.

Donnie

 

[Pontisteve]

The motorcraft one would be the way to go, if you don't mind a couple extra bucks. Let me know what you end up with for a testing procedure.

I'm pretty sure that the actuator is bad in mine, and that the door hinge was going bad. I probably finished the door off by removing the actuator, so now I get to do the stupid blend door fix as well. Horrible solution really... cutting a hole in the AC box. But it beats pulling the dash, draining the coolant and freon, etc etc.

 

[SkeeterDon]

Okay, picked up the actuator and could not wait to plug it in to see if it was the problem. Turned key on, AC off, plugged it in, turned on AC max, BINGO, she spun. Yeah. Bought a mirror to look at the blend door hinge to confirm it was not cracked and I am in business. Just need to put it all back together.

I appreciate everyones post from way back to now and all those who responded. If I can help you in any way, let me know.

Now the next project, passenger door will not lock with any mechanism. Already posted in another thread. My list is getting small.

Thanks,
Donnie

 

[Pontisteve]

Sounds like you either have a lock rod that came off it's clip, or maybe a froze up latch or lock actuator.

I'm having trouble remembering now, but my 98 w/ Auto AC was blowing hot when it should have blown cold. It was also coming out the wrong vents. At first, I thought it might be the controller, but then I found out about the blend door hinge issue. Upon inspection of my hinge, I tried out the actuator and it didn't do anything as I played with the controls.

If you're saying your actuator now does something while you're holding it in your hand, and your old one did not, then I guess I'm spot on about it being the actuator. I can't remember, but I thought I had a mode problem too (wrong vents working). Did you have any problem with that, or was it just in the hot/cold blend?

Temporarily, I pulled the actuator, moved the door where I wanted it, and left it unplugged.

 

[SkeeterDon]

Finally got the actuator in, had a bad battery and had to get it replaced. It is all in and working. So the conclusion was bad acutator. Yes the new actuator spun while it was in my hand. Plugged it all in and turned onthe key and the actuatoer automatically when to a set position without the AC being turn on.

Put the actuator in and I only used the 2 front screws, said hell with the back one as some had mentioned. Will keep the screw just in case.

If your air is not coming through the vents when when you have them turned on then it has to be a vacuum. Search the post for ac vacuum, and even blend door. I read some posts in the blend door thread about the vacuum thing.

I am going to check my wires as one thread said before I jump on the door. It unlocks with all mechanisims but will lock with none.

Donnie

 

[Pontisteve]

Did you try having the actuator in your hand, plugged in, and changing the temperature dial/setting? I'm curious if the actuator consistently moved every time you moved the dial or bumped the temp up and down (w/ ATC).

 

[SkeeterDon]

Key off and actuator plugged, you must start the vehicle, the actuator moved to the specified position while it was in my hand. Drove all around yesterday and ac was blowing nice and cool. I think it nees to be recovered, vacuumed and filled. But it was cold.

 

[EvilleDave]

Looks like I fit in right here. I bought a 97 Mountaineer yesterday and my searches led me here. I read this whole thread last night and went out to check mine out. When I opened the glove box I found that the plug was disconnected from the socket. Looks like someone else discovered this problem at one point.

As I said, I read the whole thread last night but just to be clear, I'm old BTW and my memory sucks, here's my exact problem. I just want to be sure it is the same deal and if this quick fix will fix my problem for now. I plan on spending the bucks and getting the metal door kit later.

OK, I have the: air works fine on Max Air but when I turn it to the regular air setting I get heat. Is this the door problem? If I do this temp fix will it work on both air settings? I'll do the regular fix for this with the kit before I need heat so I'm not concerned there.

 

[SkeeterDon]

So what I hear you saying is:

When you us the max air, the air is cold (max air circulates the air that is inside the vehicle there for making cold air cooler)

If then you turn to regular air AC (takes air from outside and cools it) it is Warm? Or did you just turn it to Vent? Vent will allow air from the outside in and no cooling.

I would try the heater and if the heater works and blows hot, then it could be your temp setting or the actuator itself as mine was.

 

[EvilleDave]

Turned it From max to regular air, just one click. It's not warm air it's hot air equal to the heater being on. I will go out and check the heat now.

EDIT: Ok, just checked it. The heat works and the selector works fine in every position, floor, mix, defrost, etc. I do not have the comfort control or whatever it is called in these. Just the temp dial.

 

[SkeeterDon]

Honestly you should drive around with it on regular air, it should be cooler than just sitting there. After a few minutes when you have not noticed a temp change, then hit max air and if it gets colder then your temp settings may be out of whack. You have the ATC (automatict temp control) right? meaning that you you have a digital display of the temp on the AC instead of a twist know? If so, the actuator itself is linked to this and under the gear inside the actuator their are several (about 8-12) metal pins that glide back and for on the circuit board. When you adjust the temp setting it communicates to the actuator on how much to open or close the blend door. That was not my issue, my issue was the teeth on the small gear next to the little motor was missing some.

So it could be that the circuit board is messed up and if that is the case you will have to replace the actuator anyway. I paid, I think $45 for a motorcraft and i did not buy it at a stealership. Bought it form a non-national chain that sells motorcraft.

If you do pull of the actuator, get a mirror and look at the blend door axle to ensure that it is not cracked as well. mine was not.

Hope this helps.

 

[EvilleDave]

I do not have the ATC just the knob.

I have tried driving while changing from Max AC to AC and back, I also waited.
WE noticed this last night when I went back to the dealership to pick up my car.
The wife got too cold so she switched it to regular air. It was all heat. We also tried switching it back and forth waiting each time. Tried turning it off for a while and just going straight to normal AC with the same results.

 

[SkeeterDon]

Does the AC work on Mac Cold everytime you turn it on?

 

[EvilleDave]

Yes it works fine on Max AC

 

[Pontisteve]

I can shed some light on this, I think. I have the exact same problem.

The reason it blows cold on max A/C is because in that setting, the heater control valve closes the coolant flow to the heater to maximize the coldness. On regular A/C mode, it still allows blending of heat and air. This is confirmed by watching the heater control valve work while switching between regular and max a/c settings. The heater control valve is on the passenger side of the engine near the front timing cover, kind of in the middle of the motor. You can see it from the passenger fender, and even better from the passenger fender well with the debris skirt removed.

My best guess to whats happening is that the blend door actuator or the blend door itself is bad. In either case, the blend door won't be in the right position, and this allows hot air in. So you turn the A/C on, and heat comes out. It should come out the correct vents that you choose, since the mode door is a different system than the blend door is.

When you hit the max A/C button, the heater control valve is closed off, meaning no heat is added to the system. So the system now blows cold, even if the blend door is not in the right place.

The trick now would be to gently pull out the blend door actuator (top of ac box behind the glove box door). There are 3 screws (7mm I believe). The rear one is tuff to get out, but can be done. GENTLY lift straight up until the actuator separates from the blend door. Now, you can plug the actuator back in and see if you've got any movement. You may have to start the vehicle, Im not sure. See above posts.

While the actuator is out, use an inspection mirror to examine the blend door hinge's female drive (the top of the hinge). In my case, it was all there and intact, but cracked. When I touched it, the cracked piece fell out entirely, into the ac box. Doh. So it looks like I'll be buying a new blend door and cutting the bottom of my box.

I'm not 100% sure on how to test the actuator, but I believe the problem here is that both the blend door hing and the actuator are commonly junk. What I don't know for sure is what would happen to the blend door actuator if it was in my hand, plugged in, and I changed temperature. I do believe it should be moving around, and mine does not.

If you have similar experience, I would recommend buying a new motorcraft blend door actuator. If your actuator does move around in your hand when you change temp settings, then your problem must lie in the cracked hinge.

Please update me on your progress. Also, if you do buy a new blend door actuator, let me know if it moves in your hand as you change temp settings. Also be warned, the auto a/c and the manual a/c have different blend doors and different actuators, as far as I can tell.