How to: 2nd gen bodylift - PA 883 Bodylift Instructions

[explorinitup]

its may help when flexin the shorter end up the cross bar my come in contact with the frame. mine did a couple time when thay where in backward but only im extream terr

 

[24anonymous]

Have someone hold the steering wheel while you remove the stock bolt, using a 13mm socket, and slide the lower portion of the linkage downward. The kit steering adaptor is going to be installed to extend the linkage. I connected upper linkage first, by sliding the female end of the kit extension over the male end of the upper linkage, securing with a kit nut, washer, bolt, Threadlocker, and a 9/16” socket. The lower linkage is then slide into the male portion of the kit extension (which was a GIANT PITA) and the stock bolt is reinstalled with Threadlocker.

How did you end up doing this... I just happen to be on this step, inside on the couch cooling off because I got so pissed off

 

[24anonymous]

Put the project on hold so I figure I may get a response in time by the morning..

Problem 1, I am down to the 10 bolts to lift the body, I took the seats and carpet out for prep and started on the bolt behind the seat first, came loose fine but now the bushing below the bracket is spinning. What can I do here..

Two, not really a huge problem but I was going to run my 0 gauge wire under the car but I figure with the seats and carpet almost out I can just run it under the carpet in the middle where it will not be noticeable, there are 4 bolts to take out the seat and then the seatbelt bolt.

There is a plastic "plug" in front of it with a some type of star indention (kind of like an alan) I do not have this tool but I did have a flathead that fit it pretty well but it just freely spun. How do I go about getting that out to get to the seat belt bolt?

Thanks for your time.

Also believe it or not I ended up taking the extender out and flipping it around and it slid on perfect both ways.. So for future reference try it both ways rather than using a hammer to get it on the upper linkage to realize you cannot use a hammer on the connecting the lower

 

[ShadowRaven]

Put the project on hold so I figure I may get a response in time by the morning..

Problem 1, I am down to the 10 bolts to lift the body, I took the seats and carpet out for prep and started on the bolt behind the seat first, came loose fine but now the bushing below the bracket is spinning. What can I do here..

Two, not really a huge problem but I was going to run my 0 gauge wire under the car but I figure with the seats and carpet almost out I can just run it under the carpet in the middle where it will not be noticeable, there are 4 bolts to take out the seat and then the seatbelt bolt.

There is a plastic "plug" in front of it with a some type of star indention (kind of like an alan) I do not have this tool but I did have a flathead that fit it pretty well but it just freely spun. How do I go about getting that out to get to the seat belt bolt?

Thanks for your time.

Also believe it or not I ended up taking the extender out and flipping it around and it slid on perfect both ways.. So for future reference try it both ways rather than using a hammer to get it on the upper linkage to realize you cannot use a hammer on the connecting the lower

Lol, yeah, good point on that one, I didn't really think about that and I was already cussin and screamin so much that I just made it work If I remember right, I had my dad use the impact wrench to drive the bolts down while I held the bushings underneath with some vice grips. Some of them did break loose, so I do know what you're talking about, you just need to keep them from spinning while you're threading the bolt into metal receiver on the underside of the truck. As for the star shaped bolt head, those are known as torx bolts. I never actually removed the front seats when I did the BL, but I have since taken out my rear seats, which also use torx bolts to hold the rear seat belts down, so I ended up buying a Husky brand set from Home Depot for like 15-20 bucks to make this happen. I know exactly what plastic thing you're taking about, and if I understood right when I was looking at it, this is what you have to do. The plastic thing is essentially just a cover, theres a way to unhook it and rotate it counterclockwise (if I remember correctly, thats how it rotates) and from there, you will see the actual torx bolt underneath it. From there, I assume it's just bolted to the body of the truck, so you just have to remove it. Sorry for the delayed response, I was installing my AALs today after recovering from a long night of drinking, so it was a rough day Hope all this helps, let me know how it goes for you.

 

[24anonymous]

Thanks for the response.. I ended up getting it down.. I did the same, used some channel locks to hold the bushing while my brother use the impact gun..

Unfortunately I only had 4 days there and had to rush on my front bumper and could not even get to the rear..

I took the brackets from the kit to his shop and got it to fit on the truck but my back hatch hit the top of the bracket.. So now I am back at Ft Hood with no tools and had to throw my bumper back on.. So if anyone can either give me dimensions so I can have them made or if anyone can make them I need some..

Even if you can just get dimensions I will pay you for your time..

 

[ShadowRaven]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=172250&highlight=brackets

There ya go right there, man, free of charge

 

[TB]

Thought i'd add more to this. I picked up the Summit "883" kit and began install today. They give you 2 or 4 more blocks than you need and like 10 extra long bolts that don't work. They were all too long. I ended up going to Tractor Supply and getting some like I used on the passenger side. I needed 2 more.

Anyway....away with the pix:

3" body lift a Soccer Mom SUV.

Steering shaft extention....check.

####ing stupid turning nut-collar. Remedied with some channel locks and using the floor jack to put weight on it.

Passenger side crap removed and block/bolts installed. Basset approved. :nice:

Drivers side up and bumper re-adjusted. Not completely happy with fitment, but after my drilling, reaming, kicking and scraping dirt outta my eyes....it's fine.(I since went back after this picture and made it alot better.)

Rear bumper is still in OE position as the brackets supplied with the Ranger kit aren't really that great and I have a template from here to have some brackets made....eventually.

Radiator/fan shround dropped 3". This was easier than I thought it'd be. I probably just suck less at life than I thought I did.

Air hose reattached.

How it looks NOW:

31's should fatten it up some and help cover up the Soccer Mom image.

HOWEVER I AM NOT FINISHED!!!!! I still need to drill out the front core support body mounts but I don't have a bit big enough. I'll get one.

After that, it's just some tires and bumper brackets away from being less gay. I started this project around 10am this morning and finished putting my tools up around 3:00. Just me and the dog out there, a low profile jack, some blocks of wood and some Lady Gaga playin' on the garage radio. I know you're jealous.

 

[99SportX]

Good work! This thread definitely helped me out with my install!

Here are a couple pics of my truck as well a photo of the Summit 883 contents.

My clunker for cash.....

With stock 16's tire package (TT/Shackles/3" BL)

With 33 BFG AT's on 15x8 Cragars Soft8's

I still need to make new rear bumper brackets, that is why I have not cut down the ones that came in the kit. Also something needs to be done about that darn exhaust pipe.

 

[TB]

Your bumpers look good. Did you use the brackets from the Summit kit?

 

[99SportX]

Yeah, the rear bumper is pretty jacked up, but it looks ok.....just don't step on it or it will bend down. I managed to pound the brackets sorta flat and drilled a new hole in the frame to utilize the holes from the kit brackets. I am going to make some per the template on this site though. I just need to pick up the steel and head over to a friends. He has a bandsaw and a drill press so it shouldn't be much trouble.

 

[shooterdude199]

im gonna have to say thats a pretty detailed write up just a question tho. does the bl give away that its a 2wd from a first glance or what? haha that may not make sense and it may sound stupid but does it give it away?

 

[ShadowRaven]

im gonna have to say thats a pretty detailed write up just a question tho. does the bl give away that its a 2wd from a first glance or what? haha that may not make sense and it may sound stupid but does it give it away?

I actually understand exactly what you're asking, and IMHO, no, it does not. Many trucks nowadays have IFS and therefore no solid axle in the front, using the CV joints to connect the wheels to the front diff. Mine may be 2wd, but it has rack and pinion steering, so I have what "appears" as CV joints, even though it's only part of the steering assembly. The only way anyone is going to know it's not IFS 4x4 is to actually take a much closer look than what a standard passerby would, so I think you'd be set with fooling those who didn't know any better haha.

 

[TB]

Want to say thanks again to ShadowRaven for this thread, as the printed version now accompanies the empty body lift box(with extra parts left over)in my attic.

I also appreciate the rear bumper brackets "how to". I got it as high as I could for erosion mound clearance and then shot some bolts in and tightened them down. I really really didn't wanna drill through all that so I just got the bolts as tight as I could, drove down to Midas and had a "good ol' boy" hit it all up with the welder. I can still remove the bumper if I need to , but the brackets are there for good and he said I could tow or be towed by the bumper with how he welded it all up. (THE PIC BELOW DOES NOT SHOW THE WELDED AREA'S, BUT JUST USE YOUR IMAGINATION WHERE THE WELDS ARE ) We'll see... I've also since these pix chopped off the dangling exhaust pipe. Looks much cleaner without it hanging down.

I also survived my first REAL outting in the woods. The 18$ Autozone shackles, the 140$ Summit BL kit, 40$ Cragar wheels and $$$ BFG M/T's did about 1000x better than I thought they would on the pretty gnarly slopply water running down the hill trails we had to climb!

And then it drove me home!!!

 

[99SportX]

Looks good man. I still have part of the brackets hanging way down. I was too lazy to cut them since I was not satisfied with their fitment. I will make up some new ones sometime here.

Is it just me or is the lip of your wheel bent/dented?

 

[TB]

Looks good man. I still have part of the brackets hanging way down. I was too lazy to cut them since I was not satisfied with their fitment. I will make up some new ones sometime here.

The Midas guy that welded that bracket on just bent the lower portion of the bracket over/flat with the frame. He said "feel free to use'em as tow hooks!!"

Is it just me or is the lip of your wheel bent/dented?

Yea, had a nasty protruding rock in a drivers side rut on a big muddy hill climb. It was so muddy it was inevitable to stay out of it. I managed to crab walk the front end around it but the rear fell in the rut and well....when ya gotta get over somethin', you gotta hammer down and get that wheel speed up.

A big K5 Blazer on some 35's had the same thing happen to him, only it bent his far enough to cause a leak. We hammered his back out on the spot.

I'll try'n sledge mine back sometime soon. Kinda makes me glad I went with the 40$ Cragar's vs. some aluminum M/T's/Eagle's/other 100+$ wheel.

This is a cheap 4x4 venture, this is just part of the game!

 

[ShadowRaven]

Glad to hear everything went well for ya, man. Truck looks great!

 

[ShadowRaven]

WHOOP, FINALLY OVER 10000 VIEWS! I am definitely goin places in life

 

[GRNMACHINE]

Straight Up! A story to tell your grandkids one day--Heh Heh. Seriously you should be proud, great job on the write up.

 

[ShadowRaven]

Straight Up! A story to tell your grandkids one day--Heh Heh. Seriously you should be proud, great job on the write up.

I surely will! I'm mainly glad that it's helped so many people, makes it all the more worth it

 

[specialized7]

yea it helped me alot, the shifter cable is really tight thou.