How to: Ford Explorer Blower Motor Control Module - Replacement

[pmaropak]

Alright, I'm not the best searcher ever (believe me I try, however, I often find it hard to find what I'm looking for). so it took me forever to find some instructions on how to deal with a problem with my 1996 EATC. The blower in the automatic climate control system was blowing 100% full, (even when I turned the system off) very annoying. Then (all by itself) it changed to either FULL ON, or FULL OFF. Also very annoying, but at least you can shut the system off once in a while.

So, I figured, ok it's a blower resistor... but to my dismay, the $15 part that I bought was not correct, I needed to get my hands on a $300 BLOWER MOTOR CONTROLLER. It was special order from ford, and was going to take a day or two to get in. I was pissed off, so I searched this awesome website and found that the CONTROLLER for the 1996 is very hard to find... I tried, with no success.

The learning I had was thanks to another user (ians952) use the 1998 part (rock auto RU539) and doctor up the connector.

So that is what I did... Here is my first How-to:

I first started by removing the Cruise control module, connected with a 10mm bolt, through the fender.

Disconnect the following connectors...
Blower Motor
Blower Motor Controller
Cruise Control
Windshield washer pump
Another connector attached to the same tub (might be a level meter)

Once these connectors are disconnected, you can pull the wire harness out of the way to give you enough room to remove the BLOWER MOTOR CONTROLLER.

Use 8mm bolt (its a tight fit) I have an air ratchet, so I didn't have to try to swing a handle - if you don;t have the air ratchet, you MAY have to remove the air cleaner, air cleaner housing, and the coolant and washer fluid reservoir.. It's not hard, but just a few extra minutes.


Once removed, you can see the hole (rectangular) at the (imagine the blower motor housing is a clock) 5 o'clock position...

In this picture, you can see the old 1996 version of the blower motor controller . The high amperage connections are perpendicular to the smaller reference wires.

Your new controller, will NOT accept the connector from the old harness - SOMEBODY PLEASE TELL ME WHERE TO GET THE PIGTAIL - I didn't find it, and had to butcher my connection..

I crimped on Blade terminals to some wire (3 14guage for the reference, and 12 guage for the power)

I screwed down the Controller with the pigtails sticking out, so I could test the system before I made my final connection..

Here is the connection I made.

.

The wrap up, was a whole lot of electrical tape, trying to seal up the connections. You need to make sure that they are tight, clean and protected since the environment is harsh.

The system works perfectly now, and I'm happy to have saved hundreds of dollars with a little elbow grease.

Special thanks to....
ians952
scucci

for having the same problem, and the solution to it.

 

[elGat0]

hi, i think i have same problems with my ex 96 limited, blower motor won´t stop even if i take the key off...and sometimes its says check engine..
so i think i have to order part RU539 from http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1515264 , and make connections my self ?!?!?
do you have better wiring diagram for the fix?

Thank u for the good how-to write up!
-elgato
Finland/ HELLsinki

 

[pmaropak]

elGat0,

Let me have look around to see how I wired it. The fact that you're running power with the Key OFF is a concern! And the Check Engine Light? What code is it?

Its easter weekend, I will try to get something to you Saturday night.

Yes you need the part RU539, and I think if you look around, you may find the correct connector that you can splice in to replace the old style harness.

Peter

 

[elGat0]

i dont know the code, but it started when blower motor thing started, and get´s back sometimes. i take the 50A fuse off from contribution box...do you know does it shut down something else?

 

[pmaropak]

wire diagram

i dont know the code, but it started when blower motor thing started, and get´s back sometimes. i take the 50A fuse off from contribution box...do you know does it shut down something else?

Here's a link to the way the wires go...

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n91/pmaropak/Slide1.jpg


I'd disconnect the blower controller, it seems like it's grounding through the motor, which is why it's on all the time.

You do have AUTOMATIC TEMPERATURE CONTROL don't you? If you don't, than none of what I write applies to you. Just making sure..

 

[pmaropak]

Here's a link to the way the wires go...

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n91/pmaropak/Slide1.jpg


I'd disconnect the blower controller, it seems like it's grounding through the motor, which is why it's on all the time.

You do have AUTOMATIC TEMPERATURE CONTROL don't you? If you don't, than none of what I write applies to you. Just making sure..

A couple more images, I may have flipped the controller over before I took a picture, but let me know if you want some more clarity.

 

[elGat0]

thanks man, appreciate!
i´m pretty sure i got automatic system, it´s limited

i got try that one, first i have to orderit from usa!


so good to have this site,
elGato

 

[eddie95]

I wanted to resurect the thread. I have the same issue in a 95 eddie bauer edition explorer and i also havent been able to find a controller for a 96 and earlier. I see how the connection was made above but I was wondering if it would be possible to grab a pigtail off of a vehicle in a junkyard that was equipped with the new connector and cut the original connector of and solder the new one for a factory-like connection?

 

[pmaropak]

I wanted to resurect the thread. I have the same issue in a 95 eddie bauer edition explorer and i also havent been able to find a controller for a 96 and earlier. I see how the connection was made above but I was wondering if it would be possible to grab a pigtail off of a vehicle in a junkyard that was equipped with the new connector and cut the original connector of and solder the new one for a factory-like connection?

Hey man, not only is your solution possible...its waaaay better. I should never have left my connection as is. If you find the pigtail, please post the part number. I'll upgrade mine too!

Thanks

Pete

 

[elGat0]

ok, i got the part from rockauto, i fixed same as u did and seems to worked okay, exept the blower want work in lower levels? the wiring is the same than the older one, right?

if u find the harness for that im interested aswell!

-elgato

 

[elGat0]

Here's a link to the way the wires go...

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n91/pmaropak/Slide1.jpg


I'd disconnect the blower controller, it seems like it's grounding through the motor, which is why it's on all the time.

You do have AUTOMATIC TEMPERATURE CONTROL don't you? If you don't, than none of what I write applies to you. Just making sure..

are u sure about this, i think its different ways, black on the leftside etc?
sorry, in the picture IMG00202-20110206-1632.jpg thats same what igot, black on clipside...

 

[eddie95]

Heres the part

Link to where its for sale on amazon

Motorcraft WPT635 Blower Motor Connector

Here is where i found it. It has every connector you can think of in it.

Hope it helps you guys out! I think ill just pull one at the junkyard b/c i know the one near me has a couple of mountaineers with auto climate that are newer.

 

[elGat0]

Link to where its for sale on amazon

Motorcraft WPT635 Blower Motor Connector

Here is where i found it. It has every connector you can think of in it.

Hope it helps you guys out! I think ill just pull one at the junkyard b/c i know the one near me has a couple of mountaineers with auto climate that are newer.

that doesn´t work for RU539 (rockauto) part...

 

[eddie95]

Deleted

 

[eddie95]

Oh, i see. That is the connector for the original one not the newer version.

 

[eddie95]

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-WPT153-Connector/dp/B000IYK7HO/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1313109185&sr=1-1

This looks better!

 

[elGat0]

"Use 8mm bolt (its a tight fit) I have an air ratchet, so I didn't have to try to swing a handle - if you don;t have the air ratchet, you MAY have to remove the air cleaner, air cleaner housing, and the coolant and washer fluid reservoir.. It's not hard, but just a few extra minutes." -pmaropak

i remove the inner fender, it´s easy to go that way!

and here´s the part what mr Eddie95 found, but from rockauto...http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=508327
if somebody use that part please notice me if its correct!?!?!?!?!?

 

[PhantomFord]

hey guys id just like to add my input on it as i had this thing apart to just take a look at it without any kind of replacement. when i had it apart i had the blower on half way to see if it would turn on if i fiddled with it had the module itself still plugged in and i was kinda tapping on it with a screw driver and what not, i noticed it had corrosion on it in places. as i was examining it a drop of sweat fell from my head and landed on the electronics part of it and the blower suddenly turned on half power. i decided to remove the module and spray it with (windex it was the only thing i really had handy) then blew it out with compressed air making sure it was good and dry, to my surprise it actually took most of the corrosion away and when i plugged it in its been working perfect on this hot day for a few hours. i dont expect this to be a permanent fix but i can check back to let you know how its been holding up. on a side note i had a noisy ass blower i removed that as well and there was a bunch of stuff like something nested in there. i just got this explorer for $800 with some problems here and there but overall in really nice condition with decent miles.

 

[markcoronado]

Thanks pmaropac for the how to.

I have a 95 EB & bought the RU539 at rockauto & since the plug didn't match up I took the connectors out of the old plug & put them on the correct prongs in the RU539 & used silicone to seal & keep the wires in place.
Hopefully the new part will outlast the vehicle if not I'll have to dig it apart the next time.

Working fine now.

 

[eddie95]

Well I ended up getting VERY lucky. I found an explorer at a junkyard, with the correct part and i got the part for 10 dollars. It has worked great since!